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ive been thinking for days how to setup my trunk, i couldnt figure it out until last night i went with my girlfriend for dinner and i started drawing on the table and asking her about it and she came up with something i thought was perfect so i made some simple plans today and wanted to get some opinions on how it might sound and work and of course how it looks from a pro point of view.


This is how the back of the trunk would look The enclosure would be covered in fiberglass and painted to match my exterior NBP paint



This is how it looks from a birds eye view the carpet on the perimeter will remain but since im replacing the trunk floor i will recarpet the floor with a blue/baby blue carpet, Im also leaving about 2-3 inches of space between the enclosure and the rear seats and about an inch space between the enclosure and rear deck lid.



This is a close up of the amp enclosure on either side of the sub, the sub will come from the back at an about 25-30 percent angle and on top and bottom of the enclosure will be a CPU heatsink built in and attached to a power source for extra heat dispersion of the amp since its gonna be in a slightly tight space, alsojust out of view beneath the MDF on either side will be a blue neon light glowing on the amps.


what do yall think so far?


Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] ampenc.jpg (8 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] backtrunk.jpg (11 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] birdseye.jpg (9 Kb)

 
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Okay..what amps are you getting.. going with a 12" L7?.. also might want to go ported if it's a single 12...so far looks pretty tight though...

 
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I already have an Xplod 1000 watt, and its a decent amp, a bit dirty for my taste. and already have a L5 12 inch solo baric, Im thinking of going with a 500/1 amp by JL to power the baric and the 300/4 amp to power my components and coaxials. Also I think I made a solid decision on the CDA 7995 Head Unit to control the whole system, and later perhaps a Dolby Brain , center channel speaker and some % inch LCD screens in the flip down visors.

 
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Plan on competing??..

Also JL amps are overpriced a little..and heavily regulated...

 
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I'm not sure about sound competetions but import shows, and im a bit of an audiophile, I love good music and good sound im not looking for SPL but quality and clarity.

 
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If that is the case.. live with what you have now..save more..and more..and plan the living hell out of this. Demo as many speakers and peopels cars as you can..I've wasted easily $8k buying stuff I thought was good eough..then upgrading..then upgrading again.....Save more now get the best stuff you can..and it will be ALOT cheaper in the long run dude...

Also, may want to look into Arc Audio amps, Zapco amps, Brax, Helix, Genesis, amps..

For speakers.
Rainbow pro series.
Focal Utopias
Dynaudio system 360.
MB Quart QSD 216 "Q" series
Oz Audio Matrix
ID Chameleon

Subs.
Well way too many to list..
Some great SQL performaers are
IDMAX
Jl W7's
Adire Audio Brahma
Eclipse alums
Kicker L7's

All out SQ.
Illusion audio ND12's
Boston Acoustics 12.5LF's
many many more...

 
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yeah i mean i wanna make my enclosure now, im sure im gonna stay with a 12 inch solo baric L5 or L7 and the sub enclosures I make will accomodate any normal sized amp, ill just have to come up with a way to attach them so i can interchange them without ruining the enclosure a few times in case i change my mind, im short on cash so i will probably buy in this order, but for now the Xplod works just fine to run the L5, but definitely before taking it to show I will match my amps.

speakers
amp
head unit

 
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I did something similar with my setup. If you go with the kicker's, then definately make the box ported. I barely had enough room for the ports with the two twelves. With one 12 I would go with a ported box with lots of airspace, about 3 cu. ft..

 
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thats strange, because thats two totally conflicting opinions the install tech that pretty much install alot of kickers say that it should only be sealed, and you guys say ported, hmmm hehe whats a guy to do?

 
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alright, here is what i have to say about your plan. Its got alot of potential!

take a good look at microdot's subplacement. i take it you are planning something similar? here is my only problem with teh way he did it. you fold the seats down, and you see this BOX right there. what you should do for your car, is go one step farther, by building out the box so the sub baffle is flush with teh seats. that way, when you fold your seats down, you see an integrated panel with your ported L7 (of course go ported!) right there.

now your amp rack. I cant make heads or tails of your plan. But think about this. Ths is actually an idea that i recently heard (only one guy tried this) why not mount your amps ON your trunk hatch! you can bolt them to the lid, that way, your trunk oprns, and there are your amps, right there at head level. i dunno, i thought that was b a d a s s when i heard that concept, I would do it myself, if I did not already have my amps installed under my floor.

 
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Theres too many wires to run down the hinges, also how would you go about attaching the amps to the bottom of the lid, wouldnt u have to drill the lid?



I really dont understand too well what youre suggesting i do with the back of the box.

 
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im suggesting that you try to make it look integrated to teh cabin of the car, that way when you fold down the seats, it looks all nice and showy, instead of seeing an ugly box just sitting in the trunk.

as for the lid, i believe he fixed ply to the lid to give a mounting surface. lemme try to find his site.

 
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I actually thought about making the box like you suggested. It would have looked better, but it also would have taken alot more time and planning with the two subs and two ports. That opening is ont really that big. If you would actually see the setup in real life, it looks pretty close to flush with the opening. The vinal looks a little off-color in the pic, and that makes it look a little worse too.

 
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http://www.teamcaf.org/geolemon/trunkrack/

there ya go for the amprack.

as far as the box goes, i think you could even modify what you have and have it work. some fleece, some spray hardener, more glass, some resin, sandpaper and paint, it would be set. i dunno.

 
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Oh the way im blue pringtingit the sides are gonna be curved toward the back seats so when u put down the rear seats u see the back of the sub in plexi glass and then just a painted enclosure tight with the trunk, just a little bit of space up top but not noticeable from the back because it gonna be past the plastic piece that covers it, also I do have an L7 and not an L5 Solo Baric, its just not silver cause its last years model. I think one is enough and im trying to get a JL 500/1 amp to run it.

 
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i like the look of microdot's box, as far as the overall look goes, i think that it looks better that round subs would, but other than that, i dont think id get the new style solo-barics

 
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I made a 3d model of the sub enclosure


and also a 3d model detail of the amp racks



I blueprinted my trunk a few months ago and I'm now working on the genral enclosure blueprints and the detail.

hehe I know I really dont have to do all this, but I like doing engineery crap like that and plus im gonna make a DIY.


Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] 3D ENCLOSURE.jpg (18 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] 3D_AMP.jpg (12 Kb)

 
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ok, looking at this pic, and rereading your first post: I still dont really understand what you are trying to do with teh amp rack, but it sounds like you have a plan. you do not need teh extra heatsinks, computer fans will be enough to keep them cool.

In fact, a tight space increases the cool-ability of a fan! the smaller the airspace around teh amp, the higher velocity of air the fan moves. and of course, the higher velocity, the colder that air is. So you do not need any more sinks, you just need a couple of fans.

the box design looks like your going to match it up to the turnk/cabin border, it should look pretty b a d a s s when your done. Are you just going to leave the seam like that tho? you plan to leave that crack between the box and the sidepanels of the interior of your civic? you can take steps to cover those........

 
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well if you see the flat place i hope this pic help




and also i would love to hear some ways to eliminate the seam.


Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] AMPEDOUT.jpg (14 Kb)

 
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where is the amprack going exactly again?

and to eliminate the seam is not too complicated! 1/8 inch ply, fiberglass, sheetmetal, anything cut out in the shape of the interior of the car, from edge to edge. inyl that or paint it, and the seam is gone! (more realistically, it is simply shifted to where teh sidepanels have a sharp bend in it so its less noticible and looks cleaner.)

If you want it to be trulyseamless, glass is the only option, you will have to glass your box directly to teh panels. while this would be very very very very badass, and actually very simple to do, you would no longer be able to easily remove yoru sidepanels, so I cant say I would reccommend doing that

o but it is so tempting tho..........

 
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heheh it sure is... I love fiberglass its so good to me yet so bad for me, hehe yeah I want something that if I really wanted that I could remove if needed without tearing out the OEM parts of the car, those side panels are expensive (around 200) and i dont wanna buy new ones when i sell the civic, thats my only hinderance is that I dont wanna make a modification to the car that I cant change back cheaply, I think clear lights are so un noticeable by lay men that its ok to not get thos eback to stock. but I will have to look into some sort of trim accent, maybe even a neon rope that outlines the sides and the bottom of the enclosure to get rid of that seam, although thats kinda cheesy.

the amp enclosure goes where those two big rectangular holes are on either side of the woofer cutout