Scout1

Hi all,

I just bought a 2001 ex coupe last night. The owner told me the dash lights don't work and that started right after a after market stereo was installed. I want to get at it when I get home from work. I see that this is a common problem when changing out the radio. They must have damaged or hooked up the wires wrong. I haven't even had time to check anything yet, even the fuses. I read a few articles that sometimes the dimmer control can be damaged by improper install of the radio. Any clues on what to look for when I get home. I forgot to add that all exterior lights work fine. Thanks.

Ed

ezone

Remove radio. Find and disconnect the radio wiring from the dash light circuits of the vehicle wiring (if not already disconnected).

Red/black wire, and red wire at positions 9 and 19 in the dash harness connector A (at the radio) are for the cars dash lights (right across from each other in the connector, both are in the 2nd holes from one end.)

Someone could have connected dang near any of the radio wires to the dash light circuits.

Then pull out the gauge cluster and look for the smoked circuit traces on the board.

HTH

Scout1

Thanks Ezone. I just fixed the turn signal switch, it would not self cancel when turning left. There was a new switch in the box in the trunk. I guess they didn't know how to change it. Took about five minutes. I just discovered th key fob will not lock or unlock the doors. I can hear it make some clicks but the locks do not move. On thing at a time. It runs real good and thats what counts.

Ed

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

If the fuse blew you would be minus tail,marker,licence lights. (small lights fuse)

Sadly the next weak link in line are the copper traces on your cluster PCB.

If it did not do too much damage with a good soldering iron you MAY be able to jumper the open traces.

Scout1

I still haven't had much time to check the car out yet but I have discovered a few other clues. The interior lights dont come on when you open the doors but do come on with interior switch. Key chime does not work. Door locks do not work with key fob or inside switch. Dash back lights don't work. Drivers window does not work. Passenger window fine. In reading other posts it looks like the multiplex control unit is bad. I take it to mean the inside fuse box. If so what models and years will fit my 2001 ex coupe?

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

For those 1st 3 look at fuse called "back up" in under hood box.

With engine off key at II watch the dome light while you work drivers window and look for a slight flicker/dimming when attempting window.

Scout1

Hi Craig, I checked all fuses under the hood and all checked good. I read about a "backup fuse" but not sure which one is it. I checked a 7.5A fuse and it was good. Checked all the other fuses and checked good. Have not gone under the dash yet. I haven't had time to really dig into this car yet. I did check out the car with my OBD reader and all checked good. If the back up fuse is blown, doesn't that feed the ECU? If so it has to be good if my OBD reader worked. I have to figure out how to get the radio out without the special tools to check what they did with the radio wires.

What would the test of the window and dome light tell me? I appreciate all the help. I am starting to check the local j/y for parts. I found information that the 2001, 2002 and 2003 two door LX and EX all use the same Mulitplex Control Units. Can you verify that? Just in case I have to go that route.

Thanks again.

Ed

Ed

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Look on the lid for "back up". Manual not too clear, and search not much help.

Should be 2 tiny exposed metal areas of fuses at flat plastic top to measure voltage easily.

If your lights dim or flicker it would mean the drivers window motor is getting voltage.

Put in your part # at hondapartsnow site and it will give you a list of models it works with.

Scout1

All fuses check good. Either I am crazy or some of my problems come and go. Tonight the interior lights and the door chime work fine. I took the drivers door control off and disconnected the switch. I took some jumpers and connected my drill battery to the red/yel and the red/blue wires. If I read my diagram right this should be the wires going to the window motor. Nothing happened, not even a spark. If that is correct then the motor is bad. Looks like I have a bunch of little problems. I also noticed that the speedometer does not go to zero. It stays at 17mph.

ezone

The door jamb switch could be flaky, only make contact intermittently.

Or just disconnected? I'd take the door panel off to check deeper.

Scout1

Finally had a little time to play. Tried to jump power to the window motor and nothing happened. Bought a new assembly from Autozone and it works great. One problem fixed. While I was in the door I put my hand on the actuator for the door lock and worked the switch. I could feel and hear a slight click in the actuator so it is getting power. I will do some more digging tomorrow but it looks like the actuator for the door lock may be bad.

Ed

ezone

Pretty darn common. Watch for others to fail in the future too.

Scout1

Got a new switch for the drives door. It works good. Have the passenger side on order. Hope to have it in tomorrow. After that I will start working on my /*-dash lights. I did/ notice that none of the dash lights, gear selector lights and panel lights for / a/c and heater work also the cruise control, moon roof and mirror switches. Afraid when they put in the stereo they miswired the light circuit. Hope not too much damage has been done.

Ed

Scout1

First easy projects completed. Drivers window and door locks all work as they should. Window regulator motor and both door lock actuators were bad. I thought someone had gotten into the wiring and screwed something up. Moving on to the next project, dash lights. Thanks everyone for all the help.

Ed

Scout1

While my car is down for head gasket replacing, I pulled the gauge cluster. I found the circuit burnt exactly like others have posted. (wish I knew how to post pictures) I cleaned it up and ran jumpers to replace the burnt runs. Disconnected radio and plugged cluster in and TADAAA. I have lights. I will have figure out what they messed up at the radio. Anybody know how many of the little plastic bulb holders are on the circuit board? I have eleven but there is one hole left. I moved one of the bulbs that worked over to this empty hole and the bulb does not light. I either lost one of the holders and that one socket still doesnt work or it is something that is not used on my car. I car live without it but would like to know if it is supposed to have a bulb in it and what it takes to make it work. I just looked at it again and there are other components surrounding it that are missing so I am pretty sure that location is not used on my car. Another problem fixed. Back to the headgasket when the weather clears.

ezone

Post it somewhere else (tinypic, imigur, etc.) and just put the link here.

Or get the link, click this box above and fill in the blank with your link.

Shine a flashlight (penlight) in the hole, see what lights up on the front.

Solder in more jumpers to make the bulb light up? IDK.

Scout1

I didn't think about running some jumpers to it. I am sure that would work. If it is anything it would be an extra backlight because it is behind the faceplate and is not an indicator light.

I have never been successful at posting pictures. It sure would help explaining problems. I need to get my son to give me lessons.

Scout1

Bare with me on this. I told myself I would learn how to post pictures. If I get this right I will go crazy posting pictures. Her goes. The first pic should be my speedometer circuit board as I found it.



The second is how repaired it and got it working good.



Wish me luck.

Ed

ezone

Good yob.
I would have just run the jumper wires straight to where they need to go LOL.

Scout1

Thanks. LOL

Scout1

I got a little sloppy with the RTV. I just used what I had in the garage and it was a little runny. Should have used some clear RTV.

Ed

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

That is some great work !! Have worked with electronics since high school and quite jealous frankly.

Scout1

Thanks for the comments.

mapleridge

Hi There,

any update to this? I think the car I just help my sister buy has the exact same problems. Aftermarket stereo and the ac light along with the ones beside it don't light up. Same for the gear selector lights. I feel like I let her down and I really want to fix it.

Scout1

Not much to update. Fixing the circuit traces on the back of my guage cluster fixed my problem. You didn't mention your guage cluster. If your cluster is working okay check all your fuses. If your cluster is included in the problem then odds are you have the same issue. If you have the same issue pull your cluster and check the runs. You need to be able to use an ohmeter and check them out. Hopefully your lighting run on the back burned through before it damaged anything else. That run that normally fries like in the picture has some very small runs that run parrallel to it. The danger is that it may burn those too. It you happen to try this repair make sure you figure out what wires are misconnected at your radio or you will just burn your repair up again and you may not get a second chance. A new cluster is pretty expensive.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Does the HVAC selector and temp ***** light ?? Mirror button and CC ??

Adjust the **** in cluster. Setting for when lights on, and also when off.

mapleridge

The gauge cluster seems fine other than when I click the left blinker the right side flashes in the cluster. Outside the left blinker flashes. I noticed one of the amber bulbs is out on the headlight too. Have to check if it is just the bulb.

The temp **** and the hvac selector light up but not the rear mirror, ac and the circulation button. Also, the gear selector lights don't light up.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

"The temp **** and the hvac selector light up but not the rear mirror, ac and the circulation button. Also, the gear selector lights don't light up"

All on the same dimable circuit.

You may just have a slew of bad bulbs, Gear selector is common #74 bulb. Mirror button is soldered in. Others are neo-wedge type. I think 5 total in the pod, should consider doing them all the same time.

mapleridge

Thanks for the feedback. Should I remove the panel to replace?

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Yes you have to pull the audio/hvac pod. The small pushbuttons have 2 bulbs lighting 3 buttons. The others 1 bulb each.