Window Switch Fix
Window Switch Fix
I have a 2001 Honda Civic EX 2DR and my passenger window won't work. I checked all the fuses and none were broken. I then hooked up the motor directly to the battery, and it would go up and down no problem.
I then used a multi-meter and checked the voltage coming off the switch and the motor was only getting 8V. Thinking it was a switch, I replaced the passenger window switch, still wasn't working. I then replaced the master switch on the driver's side, still wasn't working. I checked the wires going through the rubber sleeves on the door, and none were broken. I'm pretty stumped here, what else could it be?
Could it be that my power window relay is bad? Or is that like a fuse, where I would get 0V at the switch and the driver window wouldn't work either?
When I changed my master switch, I noticed that there was some corrosion at the connection, and the gray plastic piece that plugs into the switch was corroded as well. Could this be part of the problem? If so, how can I clean or replace this?
I then used a multi-meter and checked the voltage coming off the switch and the motor was only getting 8V. Thinking it was a switch, I replaced the passenger window switch, still wasn't working. I then replaced the master switch on the driver's side, still wasn't working. I checked the wires going through the rubber sleeves on the door, and none were broken. I'm pretty stumped here, what else could it be?
Could it be that my power window relay is bad? Or is that like a fuse, where I would get 0V at the switch and the driver window wouldn't work either?
When I changed my master switch, I noticed that there was some corrosion at the connection, and the gray plastic piece that plugs into the switch was corroded as well. Could this be part of the problem? If so, how can I clean or replace this?
Re: Window Switch Fix
Also, does anyone have a map of the master switch wiring for a 2DR gen7 so I can test the voltage of the wires?
I'm a newbie with the multi-meter; I assume the black needle is the ground and would stay connected to the black ground wire in the switch connector when I'm testing voltage of other wires?
I'm a newbie with the multi-meter; I assume the black needle is the ground and would stay connected to the black ground wire in the switch connector when I'm testing voltage of other wires?
Re: Window Switch Fix
Even getting 8V I would think the motor would still move or at least try to. I had a problem with my passenger window only going up and not down and the motor was fine. I also tried replacing the master switch and it didn't help. The problem ended up being a power/ground wire going from the master to the slave (switched depending on up or down) that was broken somewhere around and behind the hu spot. I spliced in a new wire and it worked. As for the diagram... I asked for help on this site as well as 7thgenhonda.com and I think if you do a search with my username I believe someone offered up the wiring diagram.
Re: Window Switch Fix
Thank you, I found the wiring diagram.
How do I test to see if the ground is bad?
When I'm testing the voltage of the wires in the switch, do I always have the black needle in the ground wire socket?
How do I test to see if the ground is bad?
When I'm testing the voltage of the wires in the switch, do I always have the black needle in the ground wire socket?
Re: Window Switch Fix
I have not worked on the power windows in a Civic but I have on other cars and they are usually difficult to diagnose. The problem is the negative and positive change depending on if the window is going up or down so the ground may seem to drop but that may be normal. The other issue is that often the circuit depends on the position of both switches since either one can operate the window and the circuit may use both to be complete. My advice is to really study the wiring diagram and understand what the voltage should be in each wire for each switch position.
Re: Window Switch Fix
You test for a bad ground by tapping an extra ground to some metal... I used extra speaker wire from the slave switch to the metal part inside the door beneath the plastic. With the ground now in place as long as there is power it would operate. You need power and a ground for it to work so your problem is one or the other as long as you don't have a faulty switch or motor. Once I found the bad wire I replaced it using better wire and properly spliced it in.
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