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First let me say that the how-to stickies on stereo and door panel removal are superb. Photos always make things easier. Whenever I get to actually doing these, I can give some constructive feedback.

To start, I have a 2004 Civice EX Coupe. The CL-62's are quite deep for the doors I believe. I've tried to find the actual mounting depth on the CDT website and around the net, but only found one mention of them, claiming a 2-7/8" depth. I would go about mounting these on a 1" MDF baffle fastened to the door. Has anyone else had experience putting these in a 7th Gen door?

For powering these, I currently have a MRP-T220 amp giving 50 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms, which I know is really underpowering the components. If later adding a sub, I also have a MRP-M350 giving 350 watts x 1 @ 2 ohms, yielding 450 watts total. With my measly 70 amp alternator, would this cause significant issues?

Also, when replacing the head unit for an aftermarket unit, should I be worried about losing any warning chimes and keyless entry/security? If this has been answered before, just direct me to the thread. Thanks!

 
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MDF ring/baffle can work well, my biggest concern would be how much room you have between the door and door panel.

Alternator will be "OK" for the most part. In other words, I'm running more than that without any issues.

No worries on loss of chime (General Motors) or keyless/security (some early 6th gen Civics) when removing factory deck.

 
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Dude you'll be fine with the Alt you have. Use 4 Gauge cable to run a main line from batt. to trunk if you plan on adding the sub. If not 8 gauge. Use Fused splitters to reduce the 4 to an 8 near you amps cause most amp don't accept a 4 gauge wire input, and a cap ( like a 3 fard ) And you shall have no problems with the amps your using or any power loss ( ex. dimming of the lights ) unless you have the thing turned up to max. then you just need to upgrade to some more powerful ****.

Yea i dont think its the door panel thats the clearence issue. The window being rolled down is the main concern.

 
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I have CDT's as well on my 05 coupe. I believe I used 3/4" mdf baffle with some sound deading in between. I have clearance issues with the door panel because i put my crossover next to my speakers and the pocket part gets in the way. So I just ripped the pocket off (not recommended). But even if I didn't have the crossovers there, I think the pockets will hit the speakers. No issues with rolling down the windows though.
I also have subs with similar power and the only problem I have is the headlights dimming when the subs hit.

 
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I've had similar power running through a GM vehicle and I believe it was more the car than the sound system that caused it to crap out after 199k miles. I always liked civics (had an '88 hatchback back in '97) and I'm happy to own another.

I planned to run some 4 gauge back from the battery and distribute out to 2- 8 gauge wires, each grounded with 8 gauge. As far as grounding, I believe there is a bolt near the rear seat in the trunk. If this doesn't suffice, is there a good place to drill? I don't want to hit the gas tank. I would just use a ground Terminal like this http://www.streetwires.com/products/default.aspx?grp=58, with self-tapping screws and use silicone to seal it up. I've never ran components before, so mounting the crossover was never an issue. Is an ideal place in the door? I figure the trunk would just add speaker wire length to the install. I didn't want to cut my door panel to accommodate the speaker depth, as this needs to look stock in case I want to trade in for some reason (and as a deterrent to theft). I should know pretty quick if the magnet will hit the window, as I'll follow the DIY sticky.

I don't plan on adding a cap, since this would just be another thing for the battery and alt to power. Wouldn't 3 Farads be overkill anyway? Isn't the rule 1 farad per 1,000 watts RMS? Sorry for writing a book. Thanks again.

 
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just remember a ground is the weakest point of a system, bigger wires dont hurt grounds they help. And keep the 4 -8 as short as possible, no need for a 3 foot 8 gauge more like 3 inches.

as for the cap no that rule doesnt really apply since most cap dont produce the nominal 3 fard more like 2. something. No it will not hurt nor strain your alt any more IT IS a batt. there for after charging it maintains charge. it Just is a shorter relase point for the power to come from and takes the load off of your OEM Batt.

 
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Do you have a CAP and what Gauge wire do you have and you should do the ALT power wire up grade.

 
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mount the front crossovers like i did

 
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I don't have a CAP and I'm running 1/0 wires from the battery and splits to 2x 4 gauge to my amps. 1/0 gauge is overkill since my system is no more than 500 watts. Yeah, I haven't done the big 3 upgrades, which i should.

 
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I wouldn't even run 1/0 gauage if your running 500 watts...Its to much work to run it. 4 awg is easy to run, cheaper, and plenty big for you. I would rethink that idea.

 
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Yeah I had this setup in a different car and I ran 4 gauge, then distributed with 8 gauge to 2 amps. There shouldn't be any problem there, unless your running like 15 + feet from battery to amp(s), I'd say.

Lowlife - How did you mount the crossovers? Did you create an MDF baffle to mount to, or use something else?

I did have a question about deadening on the doors. I was thinking of RAAMmat BXT for the mat and then using Overkill Pro close cell foam. The foam is relatively cheap, as I should only need $30 worth. I'm curious to know how much mat others with coupes used in their doors to do a decent job. Would one roll (62.5 sq.ft.) be enough for this application?

Thanks for the responses. Keep 'em coming. I've cut the MDF baffles thus far for the components...just waiting on the head unit (CDA-9886) to get here, then I'll switch that out before going with the rest of the install.

 
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Hey Guys,

Sorry to bring up an old topic here, but I pulled open my driver's side door panel this weekend and did a test fit for my CL-62's and found that the basket of the speaker hit the edges of the factory opening, even with a 1" MDF spacer ring. Has anyone else run into this issue? I was considering getting a dremel tool and widening the metal opening width-wise, since I'm pretty sure that's what's hitting. Anyone done this? Thanks.

Another semi-related issue: I unscrewed my passenger-side seat belt bolt to remove the trim to run some power wire down that side, and when I put the trim back on and then the bolt, it wouldn't screw back in. I think it might be stripped, but I wanted to ask anyone here to see if they had any problem with re-installing one of these. Thanks.

 
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seatbelt bolt should be very easy to put in by hand almost the whole way. i used it for an amp ground.