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For people who have done this or have some electrical knowledge what wire gauge is good to run the power wire 4/2/0 G. Also how did you guys hook up the power wire...did you just use a 4/2/0 gauge connection block or did you guys run a distributor block and distribute wire to the starter, fuse box, alternator ? Is it recommended to use 4G wire ? Thanks

 
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if you're running the stock alternator, 4ga is fine. you won't get any more benefit from running 2ga or bigger. if you run 4ga, you need 4ga on your ground wires too. the stock ground wires are like 6ga. do the big 3 ground upgrade if you haven't already.

 
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i ran 4 guage. thats all thats needed. ive got a distribution block that i used for my fuse box and starter. as for grounds, i went to tweeter and bought like 24 feet of 4 guage and about 50 4 guage ring terminals and ran grounds all over my car.

 
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k cool info guys +1 rep for you both

couple more questions...was there noticable strain on the car with the battery farther away? Such as the starter taking longer to turn the car over ? Also how did you guys run the wires through the firewall. Thanks a bunch

 
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should still be fine with 4ga. i think stock is a little smaller than that on the alternator. the 170A alternator from alterstart only comes with a 4ga cable, so 4ga is plenty for the stock alternator. you could go with 2ga for peace of mind, but it's not neccessary.

 
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k cool so how would i go about connecting the battery power wire to the engine harness through a distrubtor block going from 4G to 4 8G or can i just toss the stock battery terminal away and solder the new power wire to the old engine power wire ?

 
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why do you want to do this

 
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lol make the engine bay look cleaner...its like oh carbon fiber this, and oh look at that and BAM look at the ugly *** battery

 
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n00b

 
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4gauge like everyone has said, and no the motor shouldnt take long to crank

 
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k i got that part but what about wiring it up to the starter motor etc etc...use a distro block which will turn the 4G to 3-4 8G or can it be done that i just solder the new battery power wire to the OEM power wire and heatshrink it ?

 
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To let you know jus make sure you do good criping and conecting and make sure you have good grounding for your engien an a good ground strap would do the trick for the grounding trust me I jus did mines and ran into some problems some shops recomended me to put a breaker in between becuse of huge amount of voltage and sparks jus letting you know and good luck and have fun............

 
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i've got chrome plated battery clamps on my battery and it looks great. there's a lot easier stuff to do than a relocation that will make things look good. i'd rather dress it up/clean it up than go through the hassel of relocating it.

 
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just looked under the hood and followed the battery power wire...looks like its 2 8G wire...1 8G going to the fuse box and 1 8G going to the engine...but that wire splits like 18 times lol...how am i gonna wire this bitch ? lol

 
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Cut the positive terminal off, splice to that stub of wire. Done. I picked up a 4ga crimp connector at pep boys, drilled a hole through the side of it, spliced the wires, crimped it with a big clamp packed it full of solder and taped the heck out of it.
It really isnt rocket science to move a battery.

 
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^ domokun rocks!!

not sure how many times the wires split or are tapped, but seems to me all the power should go to the the starter/alternator and the two fuse boxes...i'd have to look

 
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yea thats true boilermaker1 i just want to double check before so i dont fry anything +1 to you

 
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Ok this is retarded but here we go.

1. Remove batery
2. mount the dist block where you want it.
3. Run a wire to the starter
4. Run a wire to the main fuse block under the hood.
5. leave the alternator wire hooked to the main fuse block
6. Improve all ground wires and add more.
7. Locate good spot for batery and mount the bitch.
8. run your power wire from the batery to the dist block
9. Ground the batery (needs to be a good ground).
10. set back and look at what you spent and how long it took. Then wish you would have just bought a damn yellow top.

 
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^ haha yea i need to buy me one of those..got some Exide battery and i dont want to die from the fumes

 
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uh, if you dont have a sealed battery, i wouldnt do the relocation yet. if it isnt sealed, the vent is going to leak acid in your trunk. as for the wiring, i cut the original terminal off the battery cable, ran those to a distribution block, and ran the other side of the distribution block to my battery. ive got jl battery terminals on the battery so i could run power to my amp and distribution block and it look good. 2 jl battery terminals were 75 bucks. there isnt a noticable change in power from the battery due to the longer battery cable. just remember, buy good wire with as many strands as you can. electricity rides on top of the copper strands, not through it. so the more strands in the wire, the better the transfer of electricity.

 
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Isn't 12 volts.. 12 volts??????

But as electric was saying, you're better off just buying an Optima or a Stinger.. get some nice looking battery terminals (Stinger makes some pretty ones), split loom your wire, and call it good. It's so much easier than a battery relocation. One nice thing about the Stinger batteries is you can say goodbye to your battery tiedown since it has it's own cage that is secured to the car; unless of course, you have one of the sweet DC sports battery tie downs. I hear they add horsepower.

 
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i'll get a pic of my battery soon. i'm about to redo the terminals again.

 
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Get some new toys???

 
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actually, in the time between me posting that and you replying, i ordered new battery clamps, new ring terminals and some cable. i've got 4 ga now, but i'm either going to do 2ga or 1/0ga. why? because i can! i've got both 2ga and 1/0 cable on hand. might change the alternator cable out to 2ga for the fun of it.

 
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Hey there's nothing wrong with that. I have 1/0 gauge wire for all my grounds, my battery cables, the cable going to the alternator, and the power cable for my amp. What type of cable did you buy? I have all Kicker wiring in my car now.. that stuff is great. You can literally tie a knot in their 1/0 gauge wire!

 
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jl has the best wire. it had more strands than all the wire i looked at.

 
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i've got a buddy that can get welding cable at dealer cost. i don't know the number of strands, but by looking at it, it's got just as small of strands as the streetwires power cable i've got. since it's heavy duty welding cable, the jacket is a little stiffer than audio cable, but that's fine. it's still super flexible. considering i only paid about $0.50 per foot for 1/0 (compared to $6/ft for JL or other brands), i'm just fine with it especially for grounds.

 
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ghetto fabulous

 
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ghetto? just wait till i post the pics!

 
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I really like the JL wiring also. I used to have that in my car when I had 4 awg..

Yeah definitely take some pictures.. This should be umm, interesting? haha I have faith in you though Electric.. so no worries!