mike21190

i recently bought a 12'' jbl sub and its taking up alot of room in my trunk. id like to custom build it into the trunk somehow but i dont have any ideas. i might just buy a smaller box for it but id rather come up with a unique way of having it. if anyone has pictures of their trunk set up please show me. thanks

85gp4

iTrader: (1)

There are a few DIY ideas here
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/110-audio

mike21190

thanks

TheMoogly

And I am done with my altezza stage... I have my stock ones on until Password JDM ships my new tails so let's stay calm!

X0DuZz

iTrader: (3)

my mom told me not to say anything if its bad.... well man why did u do ur setup like that? and that speaker gaurd makes my feel as if fire is gonna come outta that speaker to grill some hamburgers

JMUCivic03

Which JBL sub did you get? This will give me an idea of how much volume you need in your box. Also, are you trying to go sealed or ported? Ported will obviously need a lot more volume and will need to be tuned to a certain freq.

texascivic2k1

iTrader: (10)

mike21190

im looking at a sealed box. i got this jbl sub http://jbl.com/car/products/product_...at=SUB&ser=GTS

also texas, thats a sick setup you have

JMUCivic03

Ok, that speaker calls for about a cubic foot optimally. But this is just an estimate. Realistically, you could take it down to about .7 cubes, but you have to remember, the smaller the box, the more air resistance, which means youll need more power to drive it. The larger the box, the less power needed to drive it too its mehcanical and thermal limits. JBL recomends about 300 watts continuous for it, so if you go smaller on the box, I would throw the full 300 at it, if you chose to go larger, I wouldnt throw that much power at it or else you could bottom it out.

As far as building a unique box that is out of the way, you pretty much only have a couple ways for truly making it "out of the way". First, you could scrap the JBL and buy one of those JL stealth boxes if it will fit your car. Second, you could fiberglass a box for either of the flares at the back of the trunk behind the wheel wells. Third, you could build a very long, narrow square box that would run down the side of the trunk and still fit underneath the trunk hinges when it is closed.

If you arent looking to fuss around with fiberglass (hard to do), buy a stealth box, or build the custom trunk DIY thats on this site, I would build the long narrow rectangular box. I see that the mounting depth for that JBL is 5 1/16,
so if you built with 3/4 MDF and give about an inch behind the back of the sub in the box for thermal venting of the pole piece, the enclosure would have to be about 7" wide. Just go out to your trunk close it all the way, and measure the clearence from the trunk floor to the trunk hinge's lowest point (I think its about 15"). Then you just need to adjust the length of the box to whatever volume you want and build.

JMUCivic03

Also remember that where you are "aiming" your sub will have an impact on the sound quality. Although true low freqs. are omnidirectional, car subs in sealed enclosures will eminate their sound waves "foward" and essentially use your trunk as a larger enclosure (hard to explain). Most people get the best results by aiming the sub towards the back of the trunk, however some people get good results aiming them too the sides as well (can depend on the sub as well). I can tell you from experience though that you will get a lot more "rattle" noise if you aim the speaker upwards though. Aiming it upwards could also harm the speaker in the long term if the speaker cannot handle the sag. There is a complex formula I can find for you to calculate your driver's sag if you would like to know if your driver would be ok to use facing upwards without harming it.

texascivic2k1

iTrader: (10)

Thanks bro!

thefever

iTrader: (1)

texascivic has the best set up i've ever seen.

ssgmolina

damn texas im just a newbie in the ICE category compared to you and i thought i knew something...lol but my situation is i have two MA Audio 15X2 going for SPL and each needs 3.5 cubic feet, do i have enough trunk space in the trunk for that of course ported and was thinking doing the amp racks behind my seats eliminating the passengers in the back with a few bells and whistles u know the PS3 17 inch monitor in the back and carputer in the works also what i am planning in powering the subs is with 2 3600 watt MA Audio amps for the subs at 1 ohm each 2 800 watts for the components and 1 1 farad cap bank... how many batteries u think? i know i have to change the alternator but waiting to do that after the K20 swap hopefully in OCT so any help would be appeciated

JMUCivic03

yeah you are going to have to get a massive alternator if you are really going to run 6000+ watts....to be honest, that is way too much. I dont mean to flame but you are literally going to tear your car apart and destroy your hearing unless you are just using all that juice for burps at an spl comp. Otherwise that is obsurd. 2x15 MA's in 3+cubes ported in a civic powered by that much power=multiple noise violation tickets and permanent hearing damage. Not to mention I dont think they make an alternator big enough to handle that much of a draw for our civic and even if they did youd have to run 1/0+ gauge wire everywhere.

JMUCivic03

And I just read your post once again...you want to swap in a k20 as well....now dont get me wrong, I know nothing about engines, but Ill go out on a limb and venture a guess that the K20 might take up more room than a d17...so a larger alternator might not even fit. This whole setup just screams inefficiency, I hope that you were exagerating...a lot. The more I think about it, the more I realize that this whole setup is border line impossible, unless you remove your AC and add HO alternator #2. Adding more batteries onto a HO alternator that cant even handle the load would just make your electrical problem even worse....and dont even get me started on capacitors. Why would you run 8800 watts with 2x15s@a total of 7 cubes when you could run 1 RE XXX or Adire Tumult at much less power, get rediculous output, only have to have about 3-4 cubes ported, and get much cleaner sound. I mean, what you propose would also weigh down the back end of your car as well, and such hp...it would be like turning on 100 A/Cs, lol. Ive seen people's cars catch fire trying to do much less with their elctrical systems, so if you do in fact put all that stuff in your car, i hope whoever installs knows what they are doing.

ssgmolina

the 1/0 gauge wire s already ran ... had 2 ma audio 12 synergy series in the trunk with 2 ma audio hc1300 one ma audio 800 for the components and 2 1 farads caps now as far the system goes ive done the consumer level comps in Oklahoma and nearby Texas and took many of 1st and 2nds now as far as the 3600 go ur right about taking out the ac where i was gonna run a second alt and s far as for weight i know what mdf and fiberglass is gonna do to that... the reason i posted was to give the props to tex and to get his ideas on wat i was going to do while i got u on what uwere saying there are things that you can put on your second alt that will prevent alot of the electrical problems you have like high voltage regulators and circuit breakers but that something else i know wat im doing sound a lil off to alot of people but my civic is not a daily driver, im in alaska and my baby stays in the garage until the all the snow and ice goes away which is in may and as far as my weight problem im tracking that thats y i want the trunk full and back of my seats will be the amp rack and and air bag compressor for thats the only way i can hold the ride height i want with all that weight, and as far as y i chose MA AUDIO is because they held my sponsorship till i came back from IRAQ and ths is what im working with so if u have any help id appreciate it or any questions to wat u think im doing ill answer and well help eachother out here I mean thats wat this forum is for right anyways thanks and i hope i answered any of your questions

JMUCivic03

Well Im glad you know what you are doing, I spend a lot of time at audio forums and it always saddens me to see posts about dudes who want to run thousands of watts to multiple 15's at an attempted .0000000001 ohms and wonder why their electrical systems ate themselves and their cars burst into flames. Yeah MA audio is some good stuff, I am personally just not a big fan of subs that require a lot of power to reach xmax. I have also already passed through my "damage my hearing" phase so I got rid of the multiple sub setup when I got my vic and settled on "SQL" with an 12" Adire Brahma. I still get the massive air movement when I need it with 28.5mm Xmax one way (thats over 2 inches peak to peak) and the XBL^2 motor keeps that thing pumpin perfectly linear for perfect sound.

So suggestions for you car: If it is only a comp car, definatly take the A/C out and add a second h/o alt. Upgrade all grounds and power wiring to 1/0 or bigger. You mentioned something about removing the rear seats to make room for for amps and such you could always build a custom wall like they do in pickup trucks and have the ports fire into the cabin of the car rather than into the trunk. I would consider making some custom kick panels and adding in some midbass speakers, as well as adding tweeters on the columns, incase you actually feel like hearing some higher end when you arent competing. I mean, if I was sponsored and competing, my car's insides would be window to window speakers, so go nuts.

Other than that, cant think of anything right now, but sorry to hijack orig. thread.

ssgmolina

yea sorry for hijacking thread not my intention but um i see with the way u write u know wat your talking about.. and im only dropping to 1ohm and i rechecked again and its 5cubic feet damn so yea i am going to have to build the wall which was my original plan started dreaming and having other ideas but being here in good ol fairbanks alaska its hard to find someone to build my wall wish i was back in NY or somewhere in the lower 48... i have my kickpanels but like i said waiting for it to start getting warm so i can workon the vic so far the wire has ben ran painted interior sparco racing seats sittin o 18s and hopefully working on the 01 to 04 front conversion have the R34 body kit but again fairbanks not to many reputable body shops and as far as my hearing ear plugs man lol learned that the hard way in Iraq after y second IED and as far as window to window speakers damn i really only like 12's but trying 15s for the 1st time and I think to many of those will for real destroy the car like u said well one question man how many batteries should i use? and how should i wire them? thanks for your help and again sorry for hijacking

JMUCivic03

You should only need 2 batteries, the second should be a deep cycle of course. Whatever you do though, make sure you have at least 1 HO alternator installed before you add the second battery, or else it is just going to be another drain on your already too small OEM alt. Im not sure what the rule on posting links to other forums is, but if you do a google search for "caraudioforum" you might find a site with some ok electircal answers about battery isolators and such.

ssgmolina

iight thanks for all your help

D5cIvIc

iTrader: (18)

sorry, but that set up is pretty ugly. Looks like you just threw a bunch of things together and bolted on a basketball hoop to it. Everything does not flow. Time for a change just like your tails. No offense