Rep Power: 0

can i ground the relay inside the trunk or does it have to be on the actual chassis or what?? i'm a noob at this stuff


i get one + wire to the coil

then one - wire to the switch

then the alarm to the - switch

and the trunk wire to the + switch right??

 
Rep Power: 0

you can ground it in the trunk, but you shouldnt need to ground the relay if your alarm uses a negative signal.

your relay should have the negative signal from the alarm on one side of the coil, 12 volts on the other side, 12 volts on one side of the switch, and the positive wire of your popper.

 
Rep Power: 0

i tried it out and i hear the relay make the noise but i don't see the trunk latch open, what gives?

 
Rep Power: 0

is the popper grounded?

 
Rep Power: 337

is the relay output connected to a device that can successfully open the trunk?

 
Rep Power: 379

I had to change my alarm output to + via a relay and I ground the Accord Popper at the trunk.

 
Rep Power: 277

I had this problem with my old alarm, the selenoid wasn't powerful enough to pop the trunk, all I could hear was the popping noise.

 
Rep Power: 337

rewire that so the relay has constant 12 volts to that terminal.

the other side of the relay switch, just like you have it wired, goes to the solenoid.

Standard solenoid has two output wires. one gets grounded to the trunklid, other goes to that relay. Other option, assuming you bought the accord trunklid latch (I recommend this option over a solenoid). That device only has one wire, and thats +input from the relay. the latch itself is grounded through the mounting bolts.

 
Rep Power: 379

Interesting. I'll have to remove my ground and see if it still works. Wonder why they even bother giving you a grounding lead then....

 
Rep Power: 337

you got the special unit. mine came with no grounding lead.

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I thikn its also important to get the terminology clear, to prevent future issues, and let others really get whats going on who may be new to relays or trunk poppers.

when I say "coil", I mean the coil of the relay. when this is activated (by the negative output of the alarm), you hear the relay click. easy.

when I say "switch", I refer to the swith inside the relay. these are the contacts that close when the relay is activated, allowing current to flow.

when I say "solenoid", I refer to ANY mechanical device that does the real and actual trunk opening actuation. whether you go with an accord part, or decide to hook an aftermarket solenoid to your latch using cable.

hopefully that makes things as universally clear as possible.