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sub or amp problem....

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Old Mar 14, 2006
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sub or amp problem....

I have a 15" mtx thunder sub( 300 rms) WITH A kenwood (460 rms) sub. When I first connected everything, I had no problems. After a day or two, when I stopped for a traffic light, the bass would cut out, but the amp light would stay on..Once I started driving again, the bass would come back on....Then today the bass cut out again, but never came back on. Where would I start looking to troubleshoot the problem??? Both amp fuses are good??? I have no clue....thanks!!
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Old Mar 14, 2006
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which light would come on? but right now it sounds like a connection is loose. ground is always a good place to start. always make sure its against bare metal. also recheck your crimping.
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Old Mar 14, 2006
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What is "crimping"? <--- n00b @ audio
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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If you have a stock electrical system, then i'd say it's a power issue. When you stop, the alternator is not putting out as much power for the sub. Once you start driving again, the alternator would produce enough to power your sub. A 15" sucks up a lot of power. I'd say, you get a capacitor. It would solve your problem.

Originally Posted by ramcosca
What is "crimping"? <--- n00b @ audio
This is a cimping tool. Crimping is the process of connecting wires by using crimps.
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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Thanks!
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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Thanks...I will try these tonite
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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I doubt it's that the car cannot provide enough power to the amplifier.

Could be numerous things..

signal cutting out (less likely)

bad ground (somewhat likely.. the amp has capacitors in it, and the LED indicator light can stay on for many, many seconds after power is cut)

The amp could also be going into thermal overload or another form of overload protection.

Sub could be blown, wires could be loose leading up the sub (this one just might be it!!) Check your speaker wires inside the enclosure and between the amp & enclosure.

Swap your amp with another amp, or swap the sub and run it off your current amp. Test and eliminate possibilities.
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Old Mar 16, 2006
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I highly doubt its an alternator problem as well. A capacitor will most likely not help you out in this situation.

My vote goes for bad ground, as I've seen it so many times, and its very common. It could be the other issues that "A03" stated as well.
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Old Mar 16, 2006
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thanks, it seems like every ground I choose is bad...lol...ive tried 3...:-(
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Old Mar 17, 2006
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are you grounding to points with paint??? if so, you need to sand off the paint, and ground it to bare metal.
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Old Mar 17, 2006
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your subs could be presenting a low ohm load to the amp, putting it into protect mode.
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Old Mar 17, 2006
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A03 is an unknown quantity at this point
Fix it yet?
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Old Mar 18, 2006
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im gonna play with it today and ill post my results.......

Originally Posted by Justin89T
your subs could be presenting a low ohm load to the amp, putting it into protect mode.
My sub is a dual voice coil sub, but its wired to 4 ohms

Last edited by HondaKorn; Mar 18, 2006 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Mar 31, 2006
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Update** I guess I didn't wire the sub correctly...lol...I downloaded the wiring instructions from mtx and it looks nothing like what i have now....lol......so im gonna rewire it today and see. I thought a dual voice coil sub could be wired to 4ohms, but I guess it can only to 2ohms for a single sub.
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Old Mar 31, 2006
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it can be wired for 4 or 2ohms try this, on one coil connect the positiveand negative, then connect a wire from the negative to the negative on the other voice coil, and then run the positive to the positive of the other VC, this will be 4ohms. 2ohms just connect the positive and negative to one vc and then same thing on the other side.

the grounding makes alot of diff, but if you drilled a hole in the trunk to use a screw to ground the amp, it really wont make a difference if there is paint or not because the screw will just ground the wire. Circuit City solders Sh*t stay away from there

Last edited by cwo715; Mar 31, 2006 at 04:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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