Rep Power: 335

I just wanted to know what you guys thought about this.
I'm going to do a DIY sub box for my (future) 10" subs...
Just wanted to know what you guys thought about my ideas...

Ok, first off... I want to build a sub box that looks like the one on the right, the wedge-shaped one. Does that lower the quality of the sound of the sub or does it not change it at all (taking in fact that whichever of the two sub boxes are built correctly!)




And I wanted to know if I could do something like this:
(bad chop, I know, but it was a quickie... by the way, thanks to diskreet for his trunk! )



Would this setup change or lower the quality of the sound of the subs? I'm not doing it for looks, I just think it'd be better if I wanted to use the trunk, you know... more space? Or is it simply better if I had both subs on the same box (a duallie box)???

(Searched some more and found out that a guy did something like what I wanted, only much better. Link: http://www.clubgp.com/cgi-asp/mods.asp?modid=38 )


Also...
Does having the wire terminals on the side affect at all or is it the same ish as if they were on the back?



And the last one, for now...
Can the subs be pointed upwards instead of to the rear bumper? This was a tad more difficult to chop, but I think it can give you an idea of what I mean...




Thanks in advance.


Especially diskreet, for the trunk...



LoL! My chops today sucked...

 
Rep Power: 361

Ok well any box will work fine, just make sure its about the right volume.
And if you made a box you can have the subs pointing up. That works alright.
Also the terminals can be anywhere, just make sure its air tight!

The main thing that pays off for having them face directly back is it will reverberate off the trunk lid and make it a tad bit more loud and boomy. If you get dynamat then the metal trunk lid doesn't absorb as much sound and it can be even louder.

One recommendation I can make for sure is if you do it like in the first pic, you can have a board between the 2 sub boxes with the amp. You can even recess the amp on the board like this:

(I used MS Paint and an old pic from a scrapped install I was going to do in my car)
So that board will be vertical between the boxes with the amp back a bit.

 
Rep Power: 335

I did NOT understand the drawing... My bad, dain is bramaged!

 
Rep Power: 361

look at this, and then the other pic to get an idea of what I mean

 
Rep Power: 335

You mean like this?

 
Rep Power: 361

i mean it is standing up like facing the same directions as the subs, not flat against the floor.
and nice capacitor, although I doubt that will do anything for your amp hehe
here:

 
Rep Power: 335

Like this guy's?



Or your's?




This what you meant?

 
Rep Power: 335

Ah, I see... so kinda like for having it hold the speakers there?
Uhhmmm.... wouldn't that take up too much trunk space too? (I mean... have a lot of trunk space in between boxes)

 
Rep Power: 361

Trunk space, well it may take up the whole width of the trunk, but you have nothing else to place anywhere so you have 2/3 of the trunk free to put crap in, AND everything is protected.
Width wise, it should fit if the subs aren't in huge boxes. It may not fit but its just a suggestion.

 
Rep Power: 335

Width wise, no problem. If I have to take all the width of the trunk but for a feet and a half max of sacrificing trunk lenght, that would be perfect!

By the way... can I do this?

 
Rep Power: 335

I mean like... I'm a student and I travel every weekend... and most of the time I have one or two bags of clothing plus some random stuff (food, etc).. can I put that in the trunk with the subs (just as long as they don't touch the speakers themselves, is that ok?)

 
Rep Power: 361

yes. if you actually use the trunk then I suggest getting grills to go over the subs. otherwise its fine like that.

 
Rep Power: 335

Ok. Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 263

No bag of clothes for me. They're 18" deep, 14.5" wide, 16" in height, granted they are rectangular shaped you could probably get more room from the wedge back. These specs were predetermined by Diamond so I'm SOL on the space.

 
Rep Power: 0

thanks alot, now my keyboards covered with the water i was drinking.

 
Rep Power: 335

Yeah, but the difference here is that you have 15" subs on ported boxes (look like 15" ported to me... are they? lol)... 10" subs on sealed boxes take up much less space...
LoL! Sorry!

 
Rep Power: 335

Here's something I did while practicing the use of SketchUp, a program diskreet recommended. I was just seeing what I could do with the program so...
Anyways, I think I put the speaker on the wrong side, I know the sizes are all wrong and the connections on the back sux0rz... They are made for like... 2" cables
Here goes nothing...

 
Rep Power: 263

12". Prior to these enclosures, they were in sealed and were the same depth, just not as tall. The slot port in these enclosures tacked on another 2 inches to the height. You should be straight as long as the recommended space for your subs isn't a lot.

 
Rep Power: 361

that looks really good ramcosca. Better than almost all of the crap I have done in that program!

 
Rep Power: 335

I win @ designing!

These are the specs on the subs... taken of the company's PDF

SPECIFICATIONS
DIAMETER: 10" (250MM)
SENSITIVITY (2.83 V @ 1 M): 91 dB
POWER HANDLING: 250 WR M S 1000 WPEAK
FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 25 ~ 400 HZ
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE: 2 or 8 OHMS
VOICE-COIL DIAMETER: 2.0" (51.0 MM)
DIMENSIONS:
THIELE-SMALL PARAMETERS
VOICE COIL DC RESISTANCE: REVC (OHMS) . . . . . . 1.85
VOICE COIL INDUCTANCE @ 1 KHZ: LEVC (MH) . . . . . . . 1.82
DRIVER RADIATING AREA: SD (IN2) . . . . . . . . 55.03
SD (M2) . . . . . . . 355.00
MOTOR FORCE FACTOR: BL (TM) . . . . . . . . 9.66
COMPLIANCE VOLUME: VAS (FT3) . . . . . . . . 1.41
VAS (LITERS) . . . . . 39.80
SUSPENSION COMPLIANCE: CMS (μM/N) . . . . 221.00
MOVING MASS, AIR LOAD: MMS (GRAMS). . . . 137.90
MOVING MASS, DIAPHRAGM: MMD (GRAMS) . . . 134.10
FREE-AIR RESONANCE: FS (HZ) . . . . . . . . 28.80
MECHANICAL Q: QMS . . . . . . . . . . . 6.30
ELECTRICAL Q: QES . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50
TOTAL Q: QTS . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.46
MAGNETIC-GAP HEIGHT: HAG (IN) . . . . . . . . 3/8
HAG (MM) . . . . . . . . 9.00
VOICE-COIL HEIGHT: HVC (IN) . . . . . . 1-5/16
HVC (MM) . . . . . . . . . . 34
MAXIMUM EXCURSION: XMAX (IN) . . . . . . . . 1/2
XMAX (MM) . . . . . . 12.50

SEALED BOX VOLUME
(INCLUDES DRIVER DISPLACEMENT)
VBOX = 0.75 ft3 (21.24 liters)
Reference 1042w
(side view)

Also found this great website about DIY the sub thing that even had an Excel file with all the formulas and all that, you just have to enter the correct info for the speaks. I updated it for the 1042w's.

So... yeah... understood practically NOTHING. Explain, please?

Uploaded the PDF and Excel Workbook so you guys could download and see them. Tell me what you think.

[NOTE] Had to use Megaupload cuz the forum's upload thing didn't want to accept either file. Links:
PDF: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=K8JJ7L1E
XLS: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=HQHUFOEK

Thanks for the help!

 
Rep Power: 335

A friend suggested me building something like this. What do you think? I like it.

 
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the depends on the amp your going to use... my amp would suck because the inputs are on one side and the outputs and power cables are on another

i like your sub choice

 
Rep Power: 335

By looking at your avatar, it seems aparent.