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Hello,

Currently I have a single infinity ref 10" (1020w) sub. I am thinking of upgrading this to a JL Audio 12w3-v2 (12" sub).

Is this worth the upgrade? Will I notice a big difference? Also, does anyone know a good class d amp to push this jl sub?


Currenlty I have a stock electrical system and I think my system is rated approx 325 wrms (components 100 wrms x 2, single 10" ref sub - 125 wrms, infinity 6002i off deck power for rear fill).

If I upgrade this sub, it will push my system up to 500-600 wrms. Do you think the stock alternator/electical system can handle this?

 
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im running alot more stuff... youll be fine

 
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im running 1800wrms off stock battery and alternator and i barely get headlight dimming when i turn it up. You will DEFINITELY be fine. dont rate your system by what the speakers can handle, but by how much power your system is putting out. Amp power+Amp power+Deck Power= ur actual draw

 
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CustomXSpunjah is right my two amps put together draw about 1200wrms

 
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Depending on the type of music you like. A 12 pushs more air then a 10, creating a larger sound wave. So if you want deeper bass then do it. If you just want it to be louder then get a second sub.

Dont worry your civic make enough power. I just re did my setup and my hondas running 2 mtx1502 and 1 mtx 6500D the amps are loaded running 3 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12's a Pair of Perfect 6 1/2 compontents. Dash lights flick a bit, but its nothing a cap and take care of.

Gilmour Out

 
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wow that is alot of power man. Those mtx's are pushing alot more than 1500 each ive seen them push easily 1800watts off 14v
dash lights shouldnt be flickin, they dont really draw that much that means your electrical system is taking a huge hit from your system. Ever considered a second battery?

 
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a 50 hz sound wave is the same size, no matter if it has been produced by 1 3" speaker, or 85 15" speakers
now the intensity of the wave, thats a different story...
dont mind me, im just **** about specifics

as to "depth", that 12 may have more of a low frequency response than that 10, but its not always "bigger = deeper"... more important is the install itself, the enclosure, the environment, etc...

 
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I was thinking of getting either a:

JL Audio 12w3-v2 (12" sub).

or

Adire Audio Shiva Mark V (12" Sub)

or

Adire Audio Koda (12" sub)

Anyone know if they subs are comparable? Anyone have experience with any of these?

 
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Go IDQ

 
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shiva>W3>koda

 
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forgot to add image dynamics.... he might not know what idq is just off his head.

 
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the ref infinity is a pretty low quality sub, you will hear a definite improvement if you switch to the w3. the w3 has better power handling as well as improved build quality. if youre looking for a good value, check out the lower line resonant engineering subs. i run a 12" xxx of of a phoenix gold x1200.1 and i am very happy with the combination.

oh, and my amps are 1200w (pg x1200.1) and 900w (pg x200.4) rms and i have only minor problems with headlight dimming.

 
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Yeah, it really seems like PG amps like good current draw. I have 2 PG Ti600.2 in the RSX. No real issue with lights dimming, but current draw for the sub amp seems to be an issue.

 
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i used to run a zx475ti and zx600ti (same as ti500.4 and ti600.2) and did not have much problems with excessive current draw. are you running 0/1g wire to your trunk? what load are you running the ti600.2 at? at 2 ohms bridged that amp will draw much more current than at 4 ohms bridged even though it makes the same power. u also gotta remember that the ti's you have are class a/b and will draw more current than a class d.

 
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JL is a good company but don't go with the w3's. If you go JL's get w6 or w7... Im running 2 kicker compvr's and they hit hard and clean

 
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JL's not worth the money you spend for em IMO. if you go W6 or W7 (espically W7), you can buy 2 ID Max's for the price you pay for 1 JL and end up with a better sounding sub in the end.

 
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a w3 is a great deal imho...w6's and w7's get expansive but at the power they can handle i think their well worth it. it may also be that im not too much a fan of id max's

 
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you guys all seem to give you opinion on everything but no facts behind why you do or dont like something. what dont you give a better explaination than- "i dont like brand a, brand b is better." give reasons for why you do or dont like something, that would be much more helpful.

 
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welcome to the world of audio...
{audio philosophizing}
everyone likes something different.
see how not everyone in the world has the same shaped ears? everyone likes different music?
there IS no best
there IS no supreme sounding woofers.
the frequency response you hear isn't the frequency response I hear isn't the frequency response they hear
that's the slight retardedness of sound quality competition, yet the fun of it.
hence the use of an rta
but a car with flat response sounds like poopy
so we're back to square one
everyone likes what everyone likes
as much as i can be a nasty snob about audio gear, I can respect another's taste, because it is, another's taste
that is all
{/audio philosophizing}

 
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numbers mean nothing in audio
just because a sub weighs more doesnt mean it will handle more power, or that it will sound better. Cone size doesnt mean a sub will play deeper, its all personal preference and everything that the above guy said.
its all about personal taste

 
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i actually disagree with most of what you just said. 99% of the time, the heavier sub will be able to handle more power, because it has a larger motor structure and bigger magnets. cone size does mean that a sub will be able to play deeper, you think an 8" sub can play as deep as a 15"? i dont think so. the larger sub will almost always have a lower Fs.

 
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i meant if its actually close not fuggin exaggerations. i.e. a 12 may play deeper than a 15 in cases or a 10 deeper than a 12 and ect.
ive seen a 12" Alp. R blow due to high wattage and lack of cooling and i was sittin in the car next to him with a 12" mtx 55 playin just as loud but the magnet is smaller

 
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i have no clue what point youre trying to prove. if you would speak english and not gibberish, maybe the point youre trying to prove would be a bit clearer. sure, any sub will blow due to excessive wattage. why bring up an instance of when a sub is being abused and not installed properly. does that mean your mtx sub is of higher quality than the type r? hardly.

when i was trying to compare subs, i compair them in the same line. a 10" sub thats made by the same manufacturer and is in the same line as its 12" brother, the 12" will pay deeper and louder without a doubt. that is just the nature of subs. if you believe that a 10 will play deeper than a 12, how about you give some examples or specific subs that will do this. this will give your statement a bit more validity.

i can tell by your profile and the equipment that you are either just getting into car audio or youre somewhat on a budget. spend a little more time researching, listening, and and understanding car audio before you try to make anymore rediculous claims.

 
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ummm yeah, i dont know where you learned math, but if you have a 300w component amp and a 1000w sub amp, that adds up to 1300w, not 1800w.

 
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i have another 500 watt amp that runs the rear componnents but i leave it off most of the time, its actually in my sisters car

im not really new to car audio its just that im under 18, thus i have no credit card and anything off this island has to be special ordered from shops which is usually rediculously expansive

 
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www.cardomain.com is having a sale for all Image Dynamics subwoofers right now. i ordered the ID12v3 and will be comming in monday. im expecting it to be a very "harmonic" sub for my tatse.

pm me monday if u would like to know how the ID12v3 will sound.

 
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what kinda box are you putting it in?

 
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WTF I'm only running an Alpine MRD-M605 (648w) and 1 Type-R 12" and a 1.5F cap and I get dimmin' lights like a bitch while jammin' at a red-light?!

 
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are you running 4g wire to the amp? did you set up your capacitor properly? you could also try upgrading the "big 3".

 
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somethign is definitely wrong with your setup haha could have a really weak electrical system to start...bad alternator/battery or that your amp is setup wrong drawing alot of energy. Try turning your "bass boost" down to +3db at most when you turn it up to +18db its drawing wayyyyyy too much draw to keep your headlights going strong