Sub - Amp Setup Queston
Sub - Amp Setup Queston
i'm getting an alpine CDA-9855 headunit, Polk 6 1/2 component speakers for the front and polk 6 1/2 2 way's for the rear. I want to get sub's, i was thinking ab audiobauhn 12's 900 rms 1800 w total with a audiobauhn 600rms x 2 @ 2 ohms. What do you think ab this setup ? I read some reviews on audiobauhn subs, their were mixed reviews. I was also thing ab kiker solo baric i donn exactally what's the best setup any idea's
SPL: sound pressure level
SQ: sound quality
You can get either with JL. SPL: w7 or w6, SQ w3v2 or w6v2 with appropriate enclosure and power.
What he's basically saying is that you've got two main categories of subwoofers.. Some are built to pump out as much friggin bass as possible (move as much air as possible). These are the W7's, CV strokers, ect.. the woofers that will stroke 2"+ and usually require enormous power with a ported or slot ported enclosure. Thet stroke long, so they move a lot of air, thus create a whole lot of bass, & spl. use: For when you want to rock the block (or the next few blocks) but aren't as concerned about getting tight, accurate music reproduction.
"SQ" woofers are usually run in smaller, sealed enclosures. The design promotes very quick cone movements and very controlled returns. Fast and accurate movements of the cone gives nice tight punches and accurate bass lines, high cone control. use: For when you want to hear accurate music.
SQ: sound quality
You can get either with JL. SPL: w7 or w6, SQ w3v2 or w6v2 with appropriate enclosure and power.
What he's basically saying is that you've got two main categories of subwoofers.. Some are built to pump out as much friggin bass as possible (move as much air as possible). These are the W7's, CV strokers, ect.. the woofers that will stroke 2"+ and usually require enormous power with a ported or slot ported enclosure. Thet stroke long, so they move a lot of air, thus create a whole lot of bass, & spl. use: For when you want to rock the block (or the next few blocks) but aren't as concerned about getting tight, accurate music reproduction.
"SQ" woofers are usually run in smaller, sealed enclosures. The design promotes very quick cone movements and very controlled returns. Fast and accurate movements of the cone gives nice tight punches and accurate bass lines, high cone control. use: For when you want to hear accurate music.
My suggestions...
I am very much a JL audio fan, so my opinions are usually biased.. take it as you will.
For aftermarket HU powered speakers in our car, you don't need a hell of a lot of woofer to catch up the bass end of the musical reproduction. If you want sound quality, and accurate bass I'd suggest a 10w3v2 in a sealed enclosure, and a JL 250/1 to power it. It'll be tight, accurate, properly matched and just enough, if not a little over what you'll need to fill in the bottom end of your system. Ofcourse, these things are tuneable.. if you want just enough bass to fill in the sound, dial it in.. if you want more than what you need, I think there will be enough there to overpower the inerior speakers.
If you think you will regularly, want a little more than what you need, consider the same amp with a 12w3v2. I don't think you'll need two woofers unless you are really a bass head and just want to let everyone else around you enjoy your music with you.
I am very much a JL audio fan, so my opinions are usually biased.. take it as you will.
For aftermarket HU powered speakers in our car, you don't need a hell of a lot of woofer to catch up the bass end of the musical reproduction. If you want sound quality, and accurate bass I'd suggest a 10w3v2 in a sealed enclosure, and a JL 250/1 to power it. It'll be tight, accurate, properly matched and just enough, if not a little over what you'll need to fill in the bottom end of your system. Ofcourse, these things are tuneable.. if you want just enough bass to fill in the sound, dial it in.. if you want more than what you need, I think there will be enough there to overpower the inerior speakers.
If you think you will regularly, want a little more than what you need, consider the same amp with a 12w3v2. I don't think you'll need two woofers unless you are really a bass head and just want to let everyone else around you enjoy your music with you.
Well, you don't want to underdrive a subwoofer or overdrive your amplifiers. You want to find and amplifier that has a similar RMS output to the top 3/4 area of the woofers RMS power handling rating. Let the woofer get enough power to operate properly, and don't beat up a tiny little amp trying to get more out of it than it can give.
On the kicker site, they are saying 750w rms (max) for each of those woofers. Seems a bit hefty.. Without knowing the woofer too well, and just going by specs I'd try to get somthing around 600w rms for each driver. Your best to go talk to a reputable shop that deals in Kicker products (not best buy, LOL). Ask them what kind of power they suggest for the given woofers, and what type of enclosure to use them in. A good shop that installs these products will know them well. Sorry I can't help ya more.
On the kicker site, they are saying 750w rms (max) for each of those woofers. Seems a bit hefty.. Without knowing the woofer too well, and just going by specs I'd try to get somthing around 600w rms for each driver. Your best to go talk to a reputable shop that deals in Kicker products (not best buy, LOL). Ask them what kind of power they suggest for the given woofers, and what type of enclosure to use them in. A good shop that installs these products will know them well. Sorry I can't help ya more.
Originally Posted by A03
I am very much a JL audio fan, so my opinions are usually biased.. take it as you will.
I've used many Kickers products and they've yet to fail me.
Two of those Kicker L7 04S12L7 are gonna be freaking loud. Each of those are gonna put out about 550-700 watt rms. With two of them, you'll need an amp that can handle around 1300 watts rms. Well here's the catch, many amps will claim they can put out that much power but dont even come close.
Well seeing that you're willing to spend almost $800 on a pair of subs, i'll assume you have enough money to spend on an amp that costs just as much. Being a kicker fan, the Kicker KX1200.1 can definately deliver that amount of power. My old car was pushing two 15s" with that amp easily. You could find it around $600, now that the price has gone down.
Many Pros would not recommend square subwoofers for many reasons, but hey it's your choice. I know for sure that 2 of those things will be a hazard to your ears!
On another note about power.
1300 watts RMS and a huge amp will kill your electrical system.
If you have the money, I would highly recommend a High Output alternator.
Your second choice would be an auxilary battery, but that may stress out your stock alternator.
Good luck, let us know what you decide on.
1300 watts RMS and a huge amp will kill your electrical system.
If you have the money, I would highly recommend a High Output alternator.
Your second choice would be an auxilary battery, but that may stress out your stock alternator.
Good luck, let us know what you decide on.
another option for the increase in power need other than an alternator would be a fairly large capacitor too. But a new alternator might still be needed cause capacitors can only do so much. I have 2 300rms subs on a 300rms amp and my 1.2 farad works pritty good.
Just remember with more power, comes more strain on your electrical system so some things may need to be upgraded.
Just remember with more power, comes more strain on your electrical system so some things may need to be upgraded.
Just ordered the polk component 6 1/2 and polk 2 way's 6 1/2 and alpine cda-9855. Also ordered bass blockers for the rear 2 way's, baffles and dynamat. After christmas i'm gonna get2 l7 750 rms solo baric's and a kicker 1.2 amp.
I have the certification with me rite now. Total Maximum Power Output is 1490 rms watts. This thing is highly under-rated and the power is amazing.
Yeah i'm running four 12s" on that amp right now, pushing a total of 1600 watts. Without my 170 amp HO alternator and Yellow Top, my power would be sucked dryyyy. Trust me man, you do not want to run that setup on your stock electrical system.
Also, are you considering on amping your Polk speakers?
Yeah i'm running four 12s" on that amp right now, pushing a total of 1600 watts. Without my 170 amp HO alternator and Yellow Top, my power would be sucked dryyyy. Trust me man, you do not want to run that setup on your stock electrical system.
Also, are you considering on amping your Polk speakers?
The place that i'm getting everthing from told me that the kicker amp's were underrated, They also said i should get this cap it's equal to 100 1.0 frad cap's. Yes i will amp them maby 100 w per speaker.
A 1 farad cap. is definately not gonna cut it. Might as well spend a little extra and get a yellow top battery. They only reccomended the cap. because they're selling it, but in actuality, you need much more than that. Dont let them bullshit you.
Your Polks are only like 75watts? I dunno wut you said about amping it to 100w.
And if you're think about amping them, you know you'll need another amplifier for it right? You can't use the KX1200.1 cause it's only one channel (made specifically for subs). You'll need another amplifier. For 2 channels the kx400.2. Or if you want four channels and more power the kx600.4. All depends on your budget. This thing can get expensive man.
For a complete system that you're think of, I'm thinking it would cost you around $3500 for everything to run smoothly.
Let me break down to what you want/need.
2 Kicker L7 = $800
Kicker KX1200.1 amp = $600
Kicker KX400.2 = $300
Alpine deck = $300
Polk speakers = $300?
HO alternator + Yellow top = $400-500
Wires & extras = $250
I'm assumming you're not installing this yourself, so:
Subwoofer enclosure = $200
Installation = $200
Your Polks are only like 75watts? I dunno wut you said about amping it to 100w.
And if you're think about amping them, you know you'll need another amplifier for it right? You can't use the KX1200.1 cause it's only one channel (made specifically for subs). You'll need another amplifier. For 2 channels the kx400.2. Or if you want four channels and more power the kx600.4. All depends on your budget. This thing can get expensive man.
For a complete system that you're think of, I'm thinking it would cost you around $3500 for everything to run smoothly.
Let me break down to what you want/need.
2 Kicker L7 = $800
Kicker KX1200.1 amp = $600
Kicker KX400.2 = $300
Alpine deck = $300
Polk speakers = $300?
HO alternator + Yellow top = $400-500
Wires & extras = $250
I'm assumming you're not installing this yourself, so:
Subwoofer enclosure = $200
Installation = $200
the alpine caust me $505.00 Polk component speakers were $199.99 Polk 2 way's were $49.99 plus i got baffles and dynamat and bass blockers for the 2 way's that total was something like $365.00. The rms on the component's is 10 - 100 rms 300 peak power handling . The 2 way's is 6 - 60 rms 180 peak power handling. Right not i'm not even woried ab amping the polk's. Want to get system after that. I was quoated $1850.00 for system + installed. I just don't want my car to stall when my sub's hit. That thing i was talking ab it's not a cap it's more like a battery, It's new i don't rember the name of th Co that make it.
Last edited by 03CivicEX4Door; Dec 16, 2005 at 01:16 AM.
Alot of ppl have told me that audiobauhn sux so their out. I've decided to go with 2 12 600rms 1200 max kicker solo baric's and 2 kicker 12.1 1200 w x 1. It will so 2400 w total should blow my ear drum's. I have heard 1 10 solo baric with 1000 w and it blew away 2 polk 1200w. I was told that with this setup i will blow away any 12 sub out their, i donn if that's true. Hopefually well see soon.
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