check out HU relocation
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check out HU relocation
Hey I wanted to get some comments on my relocation from you ICE gurus...so im posting it here in the ICE/Electrical forum.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...0&postcount=15
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...0&postcount=15
Electric Boogaloo...
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You should invest in finer grit sand paper, and some glazing/spot/finishing putty and resand those marks out of it. Looks decent, but looks like you're losing your cupholders.
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Originally Posted by PopcornPlaya
You should invest in finer grit sand paper, and some glazing/spot/finishing putty and resand those marks out of it. Looks decent, but looks like you're losing your cupholders.
and i don't think i'll lose the cup holders - its pretty high up and i think its back far enough. not sure yet - but theres a whole lot more room than there was with the first relocating piece i had in there.
anybody else have any suggestions??
Touch it... He won't bite, He'll just come at you pretty quick.
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I wish some one would make one of these for me
I have to patience to be messing with bondo and fiberglass... I know I'd mess it up bad.
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i said the same thing you said - i knew i'd mess up if i tried to fiberglass it - seeing as i've never seen anybody, nor had anybody teach me how to use it. and i didn't really wanna start learning with this project - i just wanted to get it done asap cuz i haven't had music in my car for well over 2 months. SOOOOO i found a product that I thought might work and i gave it a shot. turned out it works pretty well for this and its seriously SO easy to do. i was going to hold off telling you guys what it is cuz i didn't wanna hear any flames or how bad an idea this is - but i think it looks pretty decent even in this rough stage - so i don't care what you guys say lol. its Quik plastic!! lol yes, the putty stuff you use to patch PVC pipes and things like that

now before i hear how bad of an idea this was - it seriously works well. its strong enough to hold the dvd player i just got (which is pretty heavy) and its really easy to use and mold. i'll do a write up when im all done as to how i did everything.

now before i hear how bad of an idea this was - it seriously works well. its strong enough to hold the dvd player i just got (which is pretty heavy) and its really easy to use and mold. i'll do a write up when im all done as to how i did everything.
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Looks good so far...keep at it!! Should have started it all yourself instead of taking it to the shop and them screwing it up!! Looks better than there finished product!!!
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seriously? i might think about it. but honestly, you could do it yourself! . wtf..i'll just do a quick write up now...besides, not like im doing anything at work right now anyways. lol
what you'll need:
1 or 2 tubes of quik plastic (or AJ Quik)
1 OEM center consel piece (~15 from dealer)
1 sharp knife (i used dull kitchen knife, lol, dremel might even been beter!)
lots of sand paper
1 can of plastic primer
1 can of plastic paint (i used Krylon Fusion gloss black, then used Rustoleum flat black)
1 metal bracket of cd player being used
What to do:
1. Cut out opening in OEM center consel piece
I did mine really, really rough. like i said i used a huge, dull kitchen knife. i simply traced the metal bracket on the OEM piece and scored it w/the knife. Then i cut around my line.
2. The opening you just cut will be too big and you'll think "****! i screwed up!" but this is ok. Take the metal bracket and line it up with the top of the OEM piece. tape it so it stays in place. make sure the top of the bracket is flush w/OEM piece. tape sides if you'd like too to make it more secure.
3. Get your quik plastic and a bowl of water. take about 1/2 of the tube and start neading w/your fingers. the bowl of water is to keep your fingers wet so its easier to nead. once the putty turns all to one color start molding the bottom of the bracket to the bottom of the OEM piece. The way i did it was once the putty was ready, i rolled it in my hands back and forth as to make a long noodle type shape..then i put that on the OEM piece and then molded the putty up to the bracket piece. make sure not to push too hard or the putty will go in the space you're trying to cover...you want it to cover up the space between OEM piece and metal bracket. Make sure to get the bottom corners too - so it stays in place w/o the tape. once this is done...wait about 3-5 minutes to let the putty harden a bit. next remove the tape and use more putty to mold the sides.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
** ok things to watch out for thus far **
- make sure you float the putty out far enough on the sides and bottom so when you sand it it will still hold.
- make sure you get a nice shape on the putty by wetting your fingers and rubbing it to smooth the putty out. the more you rub, the better it is. Get rid of all cracks in the putty. this is important
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. ok at this point, the metal bracket should be held in place by the putty. and the putty should have a nice smooth feel to it. also, the shape of the putty should flow with the curves of the OEM piece.
5. Once you're done molding - let it sit for about 15 minutes. this will make the quik plastic hard, but not hard enough to where you cant take the bracket out. get a thin knife and break away the bracket from the putty. should be pretty easy - but make sure you separate the whole thing before you try to pull out the bracket - or else you might pull the putty out of shape.
6. let dry 24 hours.
7. sand the biatch! start with where the putty stops and the OEM plastic piece starts. you don't want any difference between the 2 surfaces. then sand the rest of the plastic so its all a uniform feel. the putty wont be as "scratched" as the rest of it..but its ok - the coats of paint & primer will take care of this.
8. I used Krylon Fusion plastic paint in gloss black first. i didn't primer because you don't need a primer w/this paint. i did a thin coat first...waited 15 minutes, did another, waited another 15 minutes, did another coat. i probably did about 4 coats. I let it dry over night.
9. At this point it still looks rough - you can see the difference between the quik plastic and the OEM plastic. The quick plastic will look realy smooth and then OEM won't. i sanded again. again, the more you sand the better it will be. once i was done with the sanding - i sprayed another 3 coats and let dry over night.
10. Its starting to look better at this point but still needs work. I sanded it again this time with an electric detail sander. this made things a lot easier and faster. once it was all pretty evenly sanded i went over it with Rust-o-leum flat black paint. let dry.
11. Again, more sanding. after sanding i hit it with a buff pad to make it a bit more smooth. 2 more coats of flat black paint - let dry. Wait a day or 2 to make sure its completely dry. Test fit your bracket!
i used a Sony bracket for a JVC unit - so i knew mine was going to be a bit off - but i was planning on using more putty to make it fit. as it is, i had to shave some putty off! so it worked well.
Well thats what i've done so far. I'm going to hit it a lot more with the sander and get everything really really really smooth. then more flat black paint. it might sound kinda wierd how i wrote this up - but trust me, just dive right in, you'll figure it out as you go along. its really easy. basically, since you have like 7 minutes work time with the putty - you CAN'T mess it up. haha. its really just about building up a good mold and making the shapes smooth.
hope this helped out a bit for people wont dont wanna use fiberglass or bondo.
what you'll need:
1 or 2 tubes of quik plastic (or AJ Quik)
1 OEM center consel piece (~15 from dealer)
1 sharp knife (i used dull kitchen knife, lol, dremel might even been beter!)
lots of sand paper
1 can of plastic primer
1 can of plastic paint (i used Krylon Fusion gloss black, then used Rustoleum flat black)
1 metal bracket of cd player being used
What to do:
1. Cut out opening in OEM center consel piece
I did mine really, really rough. like i said i used a huge, dull kitchen knife. i simply traced the metal bracket on the OEM piece and scored it w/the knife. Then i cut around my line.
2. The opening you just cut will be too big and you'll think "****! i screwed up!" but this is ok. Take the metal bracket and line it up with the top of the OEM piece. tape it so it stays in place. make sure the top of the bracket is flush w/OEM piece. tape sides if you'd like too to make it more secure.
3. Get your quik plastic and a bowl of water. take about 1/2 of the tube and start neading w/your fingers. the bowl of water is to keep your fingers wet so its easier to nead. once the putty turns all to one color start molding the bottom of the bracket to the bottom of the OEM piece. The way i did it was once the putty was ready, i rolled it in my hands back and forth as to make a long noodle type shape..then i put that on the OEM piece and then molded the putty up to the bracket piece. make sure not to push too hard or the putty will go in the space you're trying to cover...you want it to cover up the space between OEM piece and metal bracket. Make sure to get the bottom corners too - so it stays in place w/o the tape. once this is done...wait about 3-5 minutes to let the putty harden a bit. next remove the tape and use more putty to mold the sides.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
** ok things to watch out for thus far **
- make sure you float the putty out far enough on the sides and bottom so when you sand it it will still hold.
- make sure you get a nice shape on the putty by wetting your fingers and rubbing it to smooth the putty out. the more you rub, the better it is. Get rid of all cracks in the putty. this is important
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. ok at this point, the metal bracket should be held in place by the putty. and the putty should have a nice smooth feel to it. also, the shape of the putty should flow with the curves of the OEM piece.
5. Once you're done molding - let it sit for about 15 minutes. this will make the quik plastic hard, but not hard enough to where you cant take the bracket out. get a thin knife and break away the bracket from the putty. should be pretty easy - but make sure you separate the whole thing before you try to pull out the bracket - or else you might pull the putty out of shape.
6. let dry 24 hours.
7. sand the biatch! start with where the putty stops and the OEM plastic piece starts. you don't want any difference between the 2 surfaces. then sand the rest of the plastic so its all a uniform feel. the putty wont be as "scratched" as the rest of it..but its ok - the coats of paint & primer will take care of this.
8. I used Krylon Fusion plastic paint in gloss black first. i didn't primer because you don't need a primer w/this paint. i did a thin coat first...waited 15 minutes, did another, waited another 15 minutes, did another coat. i probably did about 4 coats. I let it dry over night.
9. At this point it still looks rough - you can see the difference between the quik plastic and the OEM plastic. The quick plastic will look realy smooth and then OEM won't. i sanded again. again, the more you sand the better it will be. once i was done with the sanding - i sprayed another 3 coats and let dry over night.
10. Its starting to look better at this point but still needs work. I sanded it again this time with an electric detail sander. this made things a lot easier and faster. once it was all pretty evenly sanded i went over it with Rust-o-leum flat black paint. let dry.
11. Again, more sanding. after sanding i hit it with a buff pad to make it a bit more smooth. 2 more coats of flat black paint - let dry. Wait a day or 2 to make sure its completely dry. Test fit your bracket!
i used a Sony bracket for a JVC unit - so i knew mine was going to be a bit off - but i was planning on using more putty to make it fit. as it is, i had to shave some putty off! so it worked well.
Well thats what i've done so far. I'm going to hit it a lot more with the sander and get everything really really really smooth. then more flat black paint. it might sound kinda wierd how i wrote this up - but trust me, just dive right in, you'll figure it out as you go along. its really easy. basically, since you have like 7 minutes work time with the putty - you CAN'T mess it up. haha. its really just about building up a good mold and making the shapes smooth.
hope this helped out a bit for people wont dont wanna use fiberglass or bondo.
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Originally Posted by KnocturnalEM2
Should have started it all yourself instead of taking it to the shop and them screwing it up!! Looks better than there finished product!!!
yeah thats real! should never have taken it to them! so far on custom pieces that im NOT using i've spent around 450!
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Originally Posted by Manthatguysfast
yeah thats real! should never have taken it to them! so far on custom pieces that im NOT using i've spent around 450!
and you have spent how much doing it yourself?? Hopefully you have learned a valuable lesson...LMAO....most shops suck ***** for custom work, better off doing it yourself!!!! Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by KnocturnalEM2
450
and you have spent how much doing it yourself?? Hopefully you have learned a valuable lesson...LMAO....most shops suck ***** for custom work, better off doing it yourself!!!!
and you have spent how much doing it yourself?? Hopefully you have learned a valuable lesson...LMAO....most shops suck ***** for custom work, better off doing it yourself!!!!
Originally Posted by LayinLo
You got a w6 or w7 in the trunk?
Originally Posted by tbaleno
Where do you buy quikplastik? Has anyone else used it?
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BTW - i went home on my lunch hour and starting sanding again w/some finer grit sand paper and WOW! i can't wait til I get home - the paint should be dry by then so i can check it out - but so far it looks a ton better already!!!
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Yeah i sure can...when its done.
i ran into another problem. the mold i made wasn't long enough so i had to start ALL over. I have it all molded but i need to sand it more to make is smooth. hopefully i'll be done by next weekend! then i'll get you some pics
i ran into another problem. the mold i made wasn't long enough so i had to start ALL over. I have it all molded but i need to sand it more to make is smooth. hopefully i'll be done by next weekend! then i'll get you some pics
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so yeah...this whole thing didn't work out as planned! lol.
i redid it and then someone figured out a way to make the original one fit nice and tight...so i have a half finished relocation piece in my room. haha. this project will work..but it takes a ton to make it look good. and after giving it a ton the first time..then having to do it over again...i got lazy. but im glad i didn't ever get around to finishing it because the one i have now looks awesome! i'll get pics of that soon
i redid it and then someone figured out a way to make the original one fit nice and tight...so i have a half finished relocation piece in my room. haha. this project will work..but it takes a ton to make it look good. and after giving it a ton the first time..then having to do it over again...i got lazy. but im glad i didn't ever get around to finishing it because the one i have now looks awesome! i'll get pics of that soon
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looks clean, bro... props on doing it all yourself... quick semi-related question: i saw in the pic that you're running the new JVC EXAD head unit; just wanted to see what you think about it, and if you'd recommend getting one... 'preciate it...
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