Electrical Problem???
Electrical Problem???
Ok just got my dual AA 15s in and for about the first week had no problem with the sound actually almost pooped myself for how good it sounded. well then about 4-5 days after having them what started happening was the volume of the subs just started fading sometimes they will hit hard as hell but lately im just very disappointed . what makes me more frustrated is that my gf's car has only one and sound just awesome not nearly as loud as mine was but u get the picture. i guess my question is does this sound like a problem with my alt not getting enough power to my amp. i have for my sub amp the memphis mojo 16-2000d. if it is a alt problem then does anyone know where i would get a ho alt from for a 01 civic and what size i would need. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
Hey Fathom7411,
I have a 2001 Civic and have had to address issues associated with my charging system as well. Hopefully you can avoid some of the mistakes I made. What is the total RMS wattage of your system?
There are a number of ways to address this problem. Upgrading the alternator to a high output model will require upgrading your charging system wiring as well (battery to ground, battery to alternator and alternator to chassis). Some people have first upgrading the wiring before buying a high output alt. Depending on the current draw from your system, taking this step may help alleviate the problem (or at least to some degree). I went with 1/0 gauge wiring; you may be able to get by with 4 gauge.
If you determine that you do need to replace the alternator, try www.mechman.com or do a search on "ebay" for Iraggi alternators. This guy has an excellent reputation and apparently builds very reliable alternators. A third option is to have a local shop rebuild your current alternator for higher output. Let them know the total RMS wattage of your system to determine your requirements. Whichever you choose, make sure to find out what the alternator output is at idle! This is of utmost importance; some companies will give the alternator output only at high RPMs, which is fine if your car is always running at 3000 RPMs (which it's obviously not). You MUST have adequate output at idle or when slowing down, etc.
Avoid capacitors if anyone recommends them; they're a waste of money. I bought a replacement battery from Kinetik Audio (the HC 1400) and am very happy with it. They are built for applications featuring aftermarket stereo systems. I ran my system with 1/0 gauge wiring and the HC 1400 when my alt. was being repaired and didn't experience any problems. I have over 1300 watts RMS (Jl 1000/1 and 300/4) for my system; mind you, I don't consistently run my stereo at high volumes. Talk to the people at www.kinetikaudio.com through their Tech Support. They'll tell you whether their product will suit your needs.
As a final point, avoid "Alterstart" alternators at all costs! I cannot stress this enough. Faulty products, horrible customer service and an abhorrent return policy. You must heed my advice on this one. I can almost guarantee that alternator will fail within a week if you buy one! Good luck with whatever you choose. I hope some of this helps.
Dave
"lakers08"
I have a 2001 Civic and have had to address issues associated with my charging system as well. Hopefully you can avoid some of the mistakes I made. What is the total RMS wattage of your system?
There are a number of ways to address this problem. Upgrading the alternator to a high output model will require upgrading your charging system wiring as well (battery to ground, battery to alternator and alternator to chassis). Some people have first upgrading the wiring before buying a high output alt. Depending on the current draw from your system, taking this step may help alleviate the problem (or at least to some degree). I went with 1/0 gauge wiring; you may be able to get by with 4 gauge.
If you determine that you do need to replace the alternator, try www.mechman.com or do a search on "ebay" for Iraggi alternators. This guy has an excellent reputation and apparently builds very reliable alternators. A third option is to have a local shop rebuild your current alternator for higher output. Let them know the total RMS wattage of your system to determine your requirements. Whichever you choose, make sure to find out what the alternator output is at idle! This is of utmost importance; some companies will give the alternator output only at high RPMs, which is fine if your car is always running at 3000 RPMs (which it's obviously not). You MUST have adequate output at idle or when slowing down, etc.
Avoid capacitors if anyone recommends them; they're a waste of money. I bought a replacement battery from Kinetik Audio (the HC 1400) and am very happy with it. They are built for applications featuring aftermarket stereo systems. I ran my system with 1/0 gauge wiring and the HC 1400 when my alt. was being repaired and didn't experience any problems. I have over 1300 watts RMS (Jl 1000/1 and 300/4) for my system; mind you, I don't consistently run my stereo at high volumes. Talk to the people at www.kinetikaudio.com through their Tech Support. They'll tell you whether their product will suit your needs.
As a final point, avoid "Alterstart" alternators at all costs! I cannot stress this enough. Faulty products, horrible customer service and an abhorrent return policy. You must heed my advice on this one. I can almost guarantee that alternator will fail within a week if you buy one! Good luck with whatever you choose. I hope some of this helps.
Dave
"lakers08"
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Originally Posted by lakers08
Hey Fathom7411,
I have a 2001 Civic and have had to address issues associated with my charging system as well. Hopefully you can avoid some of the mistakes I made. What is the total RMS wattage of your system?
There are a number of ways to address this problem. Upgrading the alternator to a high output model will require upgrading your charging system wiring as well (battery to ground, battery to alternator and alternator to chassis). Some people have first upgrading the wiring before buying a high output alt. Depending on the current draw from your system, taking this step may help alleviate the problem (or at least to some degree). I went with 1/0 gauge wiring; you may be able to get by with 4 gauge.
If you determine that you do need to replace the alternator, try www.mechman.com or do a search on "ebay" for Iraggi alternators. This guy has an excellent reputation and apparently builds very reliable alternators. A third option is to have a local shop rebuild your current alternator for higher output. Let them know the total RMS wattage of your system to determine your requirements. Whichever you choose, make sure to find out what the alternator output is at idle! This is of utmost importance; some companies will give the alternator output only at high RPMs, which is fine if your car is always running at 3000 RPMs (which it's obviously not). You MUST have adequate output at idle or when slowing down, etc.
Avoid capacitors if anyone recommends them; they're a waste of money. I bought a replacement battery from Kinetik Audio (the HC 1400) and am very happy with it. They are built for applications featuring aftermarket stereo systems. I ran my system with 1/0 gauge wiring and the HC 1400 when my alt. was being repaired and didn't experience any problems. I have over 1300 watts RMS (Jl 1000/1 and 300/4) for my system; mind you, I don't consistently run my stereo at high volumes. Talk to the people at www.kinetikaudio.com through their Tech Support. They'll tell you whether their product will suit your needs.
As a final point, avoid "Alterstart" alternators at all costs! I cannot stress this enough. Faulty products, horrible customer service and an abhorrent return policy. You must heed my advice on this one. I can almost guarantee that alternator will fail within a week if you buy one! Good luck with whatever you choose. I hope some of this helps.
Dave
"lakers08"
I have a 2001 Civic and have had to address issues associated with my charging system as well. Hopefully you can avoid some of the mistakes I made. What is the total RMS wattage of your system?
There are a number of ways to address this problem. Upgrading the alternator to a high output model will require upgrading your charging system wiring as well (battery to ground, battery to alternator and alternator to chassis). Some people have first upgrading the wiring before buying a high output alt. Depending on the current draw from your system, taking this step may help alleviate the problem (or at least to some degree). I went with 1/0 gauge wiring; you may be able to get by with 4 gauge.
If you determine that you do need to replace the alternator, try www.mechman.com or do a search on "ebay" for Iraggi alternators. This guy has an excellent reputation and apparently builds very reliable alternators. A third option is to have a local shop rebuild your current alternator for higher output. Let them know the total RMS wattage of your system to determine your requirements. Whichever you choose, make sure to find out what the alternator output is at idle! This is of utmost importance; some companies will give the alternator output only at high RPMs, which is fine if your car is always running at 3000 RPMs (which it's obviously not). You MUST have adequate output at idle or when slowing down, etc.
Avoid capacitors if anyone recommends them; they're a waste of money. I bought a replacement battery from Kinetik Audio (the HC 1400) and am very happy with it. They are built for applications featuring aftermarket stereo systems. I ran my system with 1/0 gauge wiring and the HC 1400 when my alt. was being repaired and didn't experience any problems. I have over 1300 watts RMS (Jl 1000/1 and 300/4) for my system; mind you, I don't consistently run my stereo at high volumes. Talk to the people at www.kinetikaudio.com through their Tech Support. They'll tell you whether their product will suit your needs.
As a final point, avoid "Alterstart" alternators at all costs! I cannot stress this enough. Faulty products, horrible customer service and an abhorrent return policy. You must heed my advice on this one. I can almost guarantee that alternator will fail within a week if you buy one! Good luck with whatever you choose. I hope some of this helps.
Dave
"lakers08"
Dam dude. Sounds like you went through some shiiiit to figure all this out. I was going to do some major sound stuff in mine. I have now reliazed(before reading this) that most of the wiring in my car is pretty small. In a way I almost feel like when you do an hid swap and do not use relays just use the small headlight power wire. This car(and most others) where never designed to run a ton a wattage to any part so when you increase the demand and just do quik fixes you could have some probs. I think i am now Going to find the most wattage eff. sub out. I have heard but am not sure that when you look at a subs sensitvity its a way to see how well it uses its power( i could be wrong some correcting would be nice). But it would be nice to run low power stuff just to sound good and not hit like crazy.
thanks for the reply. my sub amp is doing 2000wrms and my 4 channel is doing 60wrms x4. i also have 1/0 gauge ran. i was running for about 7-8 days ok then after that no way could i even think of running my system at high volumes.
Fathom7411,
Running that kind of power will definitely lead to charging-system difficulties off a stock alternator. Stock alts. are meant to account for the draw of the vehicle and it's accessories, with a bit in reserve.
Choose one of the options in the previous post (Mechman, Iraggi) and let them know what kind of vehicle and equipment you're running. One caveat: aftermarket high output alternators don't typically last as long as stock ones. However, both companies products are considered very reliable and have an excellent reputation. Visit the link below and scroll down to the formula that determines current draw by amplifiers. It may be helpful. Here it is:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...ers_faq.html#6
Running that kind of power will definitely lead to charging-system difficulties off a stock alternator. Stock alts. are meant to account for the draw of the vehicle and it's accessories, with a bit in reserve.
Choose one of the options in the previous post (Mechman, Iraggi) and let them know what kind of vehicle and equipment you're running. One caveat: aftermarket high output alternators don't typically last as long as stock ones. However, both companies products are considered very reliable and have an excellent reputation. Visit the link below and scroll down to the formula that determines current draw by amplifiers. It may be helpful. Here it is:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...ers_faq.html#6
Last edited by lakers08; Jul 26, 2005 at 12:28 PM.
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