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Okay, so after spending most of the day putting together my little wish list and such, I need some advice. (Note: I spent the day looking mostly at Rockford products, so if suggesting another brand, reasons why you recommend them and ideas on setup are appreciated.)

Here is the list:
Head Unit:
Pioneer DEH-P7700MP Link

Amps:
Rockford Fosgate Punch P6001bd - 1 Channel - 600w @ 2ohms Link
Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 - 4 Channels - 50w @ 4ohms Link

Speakers:
Rockford Fosgate Punch P1692S - Set+4 Tweeters+Crossovers - 60w RMS/ 120w Peak Link
Rockford Fosgate Punch P162S - Set+4 Tweeters+Crossovers - 60w RMS/ 120w Peak Link

Sub:
Rockford Fosgate Punch P312D2 - DVC 500w RMS / 1000w Peak Link

Misc:
1 Farad Cap
Wires / Etc
Distripution Blocks
Phoenix Gold BassCube

So comments? lol I was looking for replacement batteries, found a reference to an Exide one on here, that I couldn't find online anywhere. Though checking their web site they have one designed to compliment the starting battery, but I would prefer not to spend more going that way. So I need some suggestions there as well.

This system setup is a bit over 1400 bucks from the prices I found quickly online. Technically I don't wanna spend more then a grand on the system, so the regular speaker sets and the second amp might get cut in the end.

I wonder if 2 subs would be a better idea. I want a nice thump, but have no desire to compete in SPL compitions ... nor do I need to drive around proving I got bigger BassBallz then everyone else ... haha.

I'm sure I mislabeled something, got something wrong, etc etc. Feel free to point those out. Ideas, very much needed.

 
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p3 is over rated unless its the 15'' i would go with an alpine type r or a boston acoustic g21244. use to sale all 3 brands and i have that amp i have it turned up all day and have had no problems.

 
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The amp that I listed right?

 
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yes the 6001bd

 
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Are you just a big Fosgate fan or have you actually heard all those speakers?

I wouldn't recommend the :

Rockford Fosgate Punch P1692S
Rockford Fosgate Punch P162S

The amps will do you fine, but you can also find better subs (and you can get 2!)

 
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yea mostly from a friend of mine that was always a huge fosgate fan, not to mention him winning a few competitions with them, though he did have his amps tweaked a little bit.
anyway that's what i am here for, new suggestions. if anyone knows a GOOD site that reviews speakers and subs, that would help. seems like all i can find these days is just customer reviews, that doesn't help since they are not comparing a range of products.
i have no problem with a mix and match of different manufactures. so what would ya recommend instead of the punch lineup, something in the same price range and power.

 
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alpine

 
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like the Type-R SWR-1222D 500wRMS/1500sPEAK?
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/...in=10&p_more=y

 
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It depends on what you're looking for out of the system really, if you want an accurate response from some of us. True, I can say "Get this, or I like this it's good, get it, or this is what I have". What I listen to and like might not be what you want, so it's ignorant of me to make a suggestion based upon that.

What type of music do you listen to?
What is the focus of your system (ie sound quality or sound pressure level(db drag))?
You've answered the budget question ($1000)
What features are you wanting out of the head unit?
There are tons of questions to be answered before recommending anything.

Might also want to look at elitecaraudio.com, caraudioreview.com, caraudioandelectronics.com, to name a few places for detailed reviews.

 
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music-wise i listen to things from country to christian, rap to alternative. so some garth brooks, jars of clay, 3 doors down, eminem, 50 cent, puddle of mudd, nickleback, a lot of junk from the 80's as well.
building a more vers. system that can accomodate sound quality from low bass to pure highs is more important .... though there must always be a very good thump for the bass intensive music.
the head unit, i really don't mind that much, i'd be more concerned that the display was green to match the rest of the dash. lol. should play mp3 cd's, 3 outputs, just simple things really. ideally i would like an in dash dvd player with full surrond sound in the car, but that can wait for a long while.
so no, again, i dont just wanna add some subs to be nothin but bass. cause with past subs i've had during some music or cd's i turn them down a bit (thus a remote for the amp will make that simple enough). gotta replace the stock speakers for musical clarity for the whole range. then through in a sub or two for a strong thump.

 
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I checked a couple of the sites listed, lots of speaker models on there, though usually few reviews, and again they tend to not be comparisons, just individual experience with that one speaker. Tried using http://www.caraudiomag.com/ and there sub comparisons, and even that isn't very helpful in the end. (Primarly because finding information on there is almost as bad as finding it on here, pages and pages of results, take forever to get through it all with no promise of gaining information needed to do it)
With the never-ending amount of options, it becomes hopeless. haha. Really need a master list of all subwoofers currently on market with summeries. I know one of the mags does that once a year or something, something close to it at least.
K, back to the suggestions.

 
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Not sure how much you've actually budgeted for each set of components.

To save a bit of cash, why not do coaxials in the doors?

Also, you don't have to waste ( not looking to start any arguements here ) your money on a capacitor. Save that $$$ for a better amp.

Stay away from the pioneer, jensen, cheap alpine, and sony speakers.

 
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doh

* returns his pioneers

 
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Personally, being as you're an SQ fan (and you probably don't want to lost as much of the lower end midbass frequencies as you'd normally tend to do wihen replacing the full range stocks with somponents, coax, triax, etc...) which happens to be what I'm into, andou're also on a budget, I can recommend several things.

1st- Either ditch the rear speakers all together, or keep the stocks and run them off the headunit. This is to keep the soundstage up front and keep everything balanced, as opposed to hearing your music blaring at you from the rear.

For teh fronts, I have several ideas. Mutt sets are my favorite (meaning I don't buy a component set, I buy the individual parts). I like either Adire Audio Koda6's or JL Audio 6W0's in the doors for budget component midbass. Both of these require baffling (adding an MDF spacer) to fit. Both provide excellent midbass response at a budget friendly price (the koda's are $80 a pair at adire's site, jl's around $80 pretty much anywhere). I like to pair those with Image Dynamics NX30 tweets (though you usually find them for about $100, you can sometimes find them on ebay much cheaper). You have several options for the crossovers, Image Dynamics seems to be my choice there, but you can get some from lots of other places, I think partsexpress.com offers some as well. Cross them where you want, just make sure it's within the driver's parameters.

Another option for the front doors is to run a set of JL Audio VR650-CXi coaxials in the doors. They have a tad lower midbass response than the majority of budget minded component sets or coax's out there. They retail around $125.

For teh amps, you have several options. They'll all run fine off of about 50 watts each, but I like to feed them around 60-75 watts per channel. Plenty ofchoices out there, I like JL stuff, the e-series stuff that is, to run components off of. Sound quality power, affordable pricing. I opt for thee2150 2 channel here (that's for running front fill only, I don't run rear fill in the 7th gen).

For subs, and for the budget offerings, I'll offer a few sugegstions:I like a 10 for this type of application, especially with the music taste you have.(I've posted this on another forum, so some of the Scion crossovers will probably recognize the post)

1. Arc Audio KAR10D. This sub plays fairly clearat high playback volumes, for an entry level of course. It also has good tonal response. I especially like it's ability to transition from rock to r&b without falling flat in either. Price point for this one is between $100-$120 (depending on where you shop).

2. JL Audio 10W1v2. Performs remarkably well at a low price point. Clarity is great at a high playback level with this one, for being an entry level woofer. This one transitions well from rock to rap and back again well also. The downside to this product is that buying online voids the warranty, as JL doesn't authorize online sales. I personally like havig a warranty, even if I've never had a problem from their product. Price point $100-$120 (again, dependant on where you shop). JL also offers pre-fab boxes so you wouldn't have to have one built or buy a generic one. Great upside for you.

3. Image Dynamics ID10v3. This sub plays well at both high and low playback volumes. It performs along the lines of the eD product, except it's just a small bit clearer. It also can function well in evry small enclosures(especially good if you're concerned with saving space) Other than that, it's performs just like the eD. Expect to pay around $110 for one (that's the price at www.cardomain.com/shop the only authorized online dealer I know of).

4. Image Dynamics IDQ10v2. Great excursion out of this one (13.5mm average one way). Thermally, it handles it's power really well. Also does this mechanically. Functions remarkably well at high play back volumes, at least for the price point. Transitions well from rock to rap. Expect to pay around $160 retail for it.

5. Adire Audio Shiva 12. Yeah, I know, not a 10, but this one performs so well at a low price point I felt compelled to include it. This one functions remarkably well at low power (watch the video on their site of it pumping with a whopping 60 watts). Granted it can take more, much more, than that, but it functions well at low power input. This one plays all types of music well, possibly the best at the price point. It also allows you to get a tad lower on the frequency chart than the average entry level 10. Coupled with a JBL power seres amp (cheap yet efficent power, and remember, we're going budget here) this one does anything you could ask out of a budget woofer exceptionally well. Problem here is actually being able to find one to buy. MSRP $125

6. Resonant Engineering SE10. Has a great bottom octave, especially at higher playback volume. Is thermally efficent. Plays remarkably well in all applications. Plays well with all genres of music. Expect to pay between $125-$150 depending on where you shop. (Their RE10 is pretty decent at a lower price point. It's a tad less clear at high playback, and sometimes doesn't transition as well, but still pretty good)


For sub power, I'd have to recommend going with a JBL Power series amp, as it's probably the cheapest, yet most effective power you'll find on a budget. Another option is Hifonics, but expect to pay a tad more than you would for a JBL.

For wire, remember wire is wire, except when it comes to RCA's. Don't skimp there. I'd say to go with Knuconceptz, they're high quality, yet cheaper than most of the alternatives.

Sorry, I'm kinda in a hurry, so I probably skipped some things.

 
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@ scarypunk: All I meant was that they are more budget friendly than sound friendly.

 
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okay, lots to read there and look into. let me just toss this in real quick ... should i get a new alternator? with all the neon runnin in the car i already get some dimming, now that could just be the tubes, but i cant imagine 6 defective tubes. (streetglow 6") I have another 10 6" tubes i'm lookin to hide someplace, haha, so far it is tasteful. anyway, so they don't take that much i don't think (power is far from my speciality) but with what those tubes and 2-3 amps should i be lookin into it. that was part of my idea for addin a cap, and lookin at replacement batteries.
my goal was around 1000, but can always go a tad above. BTW - i like the idea of not worring about the rear speakers, makes sense since the subs are back there, wouldnt hear those speakers anyway.
so give me some thoughts, and i'll spend a while lookin into the big post there and post something else later.

 
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I'd replace the battery first before going for an alternator. Actually, since I were buying wire, I'd buy some to also do the big 3 with at the same time. If you're not sure what the big 3 are, just run a quick search on here, it'll explain it. Once I did that, then I'd go for a battery. From teh battery, I'd probably try a cap, then alternator last as it'll be the most expensive. Sure, you can rewind your stocker, but it's still the stock alternator under there, don't waste time or money doing that, just buy a brand new aftermarket one if you're gonna replace it.

 
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real quick ... 2 smaller, lower RMS subs, or 1 larger one ... which is a better idea?

 
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I'd go with 2 10's personally. They won't go quite as low, but with a pair you'd have moer surface area and be moving more air... That's theoretically of course, there's always a few exceptions...

 
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weres the pixs

 
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pics of what?