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http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html Link fixed.. My bad,,,

There ya.. go tells you where and Why

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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link won't work for me [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG]

 
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Try to copy it and paste it to your browser.

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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thank you soo much!

yeah just paste it. it tries to open

http://http:// twice... thats all. take one out and it will work.

 
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that's great for competition, but the average joe shmoe bass lover is gonna wanna show off his subs. in the end, everyone buys the sub that not only performs well, but also looks friggin cool. in many cases, you'll also buy the cooler looking one, even if it doesn't quite reproduce bass as well as the uglier one.

if i read this page correctly, it's telling you that to get teh best sound out of youy subs, you need to face them towards the rear and against the bumper side of your trunk. yes/no?

personally.. i'd rather lose a lil in sound and show my red puppies off! i guess i might be a lil bit of a flaunter, but damn.. you're telling me you didn't buy the subs with the look of them in mind?

 
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For most SPL basically jam the subs as close to the licence plate as pissbly facing the rear. 90% of all people Hav ethe subs up against the rear seat facing the license plate. Shows em off leaves you trunk space works well enough.. I face my subs forward and against the back seat. Trunk space.. more SPL.. sounds great..

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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That's the way mine sit. I built a custom box to hold 2 - 10's for my 1995 EX with the subs facing the back seat. Luckily the 2001 coupe has a little bit bigger trunk, so the box fits great in it also.

 
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having the subs facing the rear (license plate) creates more rattle but "louder" bass outside and inside the car. having it facing front (seats) causes less rattling, a "deeper" bass inside the car, but it's not gonna be that loud outside. of course not unless you fold down the seats and open your windows, that will create a loud deep bass. also a bandpass box wouldn't really matter how you position your box, as long as the port hole/holes have space to breath, it'll be all good.

 
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the freakin page is hard to understand

 
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Paolo,

Now why in the hell would you want people to hear bass outside your car.. You lose SPL that way.. and you lose some low frequency extension.. The bass that escapes your car isn't making it to your ear. And as for rattlings.. there's a few DIY's on here that should take care of 80% of your rattling.

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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Simple put them agaist the back seat faceing the back of the trunk [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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<< Simple put them agaist the back seat faceing the back of the trunk [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] >>



Yes. If you want about a 20% loss in SPL(loudness) due to cancellation.. but then again it leaves you with the most trunk space and slighly better sound than facing your subs straight forward.

Cheers
Mohawk.

 
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I have played around with mine and come to the same conclusions. I actually am more concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sound, than having somebody outside the car hearing what I am listening to.

L8TR

 
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Could not have said it better.

 
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I've invested alot in sound deadening in both type, products and creativity ... I like to keep my sound inside my car where it belogs for me to hear it.. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] I'm greedy.. and I don't care if anyone knows I'm coming 8 blocks away..then I have to worry about thieves picking off my car..... Generally for the best sound quality and clarity it doesn't make a damn difference where you face your subs.. It's just moving air anyhow. However in some cases you might get alot of canvellation at some frequncies depending on where you mount the subs and you'll have a "quiet" zone in your bass respnce at that frequency... Generally it doesn't matter there your subs are facing for Quality..but for SPL at your ears.. the Link says it all.

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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I have one 12 JL Audio W3 in my trunk running off of a Eclipse Amp. My boyfriend made a custom box with the correct specs, and installed it. It is sealed the box and faced it towards the trunk because it sounded the best. Facing it towards the interior didn't hit as hard. My boyfriend has two 12s and two 10s JL W3 and W6 customly installed in his trunk running off of two PPI amps now his car rocks!

 
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My car use to rattle but my boyfriend tighten everything down that created the rattling. Or he sprayed foam that harden to hold things that were rattling (Stuff rattling and unable to tighten under panels off course).

 
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<< I have one 12 JL Audio W3 in my trunk running off of a Eclipse Amp. My boyfriend made a custom box with the correct specs, and installed it. It is sealed the box and faced it towards the trunk because it sounded the best. Facing it towards the interior didn't hit as hard. My boyfriend has two 12s and two 10s JL W3 and W6 customly installed in his trunk running off of two PPI amps now his car rocks! >>



As far as hitting harder that's the SPL part of it. As far as tonality and responce. that's a different matter. The foam Idea is good, I filled all my trunk and roof panels with 3m Minimal expanding foam. It helps ALOT.. Also over time if you have front speakers with good midbass your doors will start rattling. Just put some gasketing foam around the door clips. this will take car of the rattles. I still get new rattles in my car periodically, But I'm killing them as they appear.

CHeers
Mohawk

 
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facing the rear sounds good here. just leave room at the top for the waves to pass don't build the box too high or you might get too much bouncing in the trunk and cancelation. here's my power 15.

 
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i have my 2 subs aiming toward the back, but the ports are on the sides(it was for my old car) so i am gonna get a new box built with the ports aim back, think that'll help?

 
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my audio place said with my new speaks to get the most out of it they were goin to build a box to face forward and right up against the back seats and port it through my rear deck (which means makin some nasty holes in the back of it) ....... should i listen to them??

 
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Bake.. I used that same setup in ym old car. Sealed the subs off from the trunk. used the rear speaker holes for 6" Ports. Sound great, hit Mighty hard.

It's up to you. As long as they don't cut new holes I'd got for it. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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<< my audio place said with my new speaks to get the most out of it they were goin to build a box to face forward and right up against the back seats and port it through my rear deck (which means makin some nasty holes in the back of it) ....... should i listen to them?? >>



I read an article about some people that did that and they got varying results from different cars. I guess its just a test it and see if it works type of thing. If you can do it without spending too much money, go for it. If it doesn't work, you are only out a few bucks and you can try something else.

 
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Has anyone actually fooled around trying all the setups that were described in the link???

What I take from it is facing the sub to the trunk...however, very close to it will provide best SPL response...

I'm gonna go mess with my box...Be back soon!!!

 
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i gutted out my trunk and lined it with mdf (medium density fiberboard) then proceeded to screw everything down and fiberglass it all into place and build supports out of fiberglass and wire mesh .. at first i had my 2 square solo baric 12's facing forward by behid the rear seats....it was loud ..but it didnt get the really low notes...then i turned em around and fit them perfecly centered and now they hit atleast 2wice as loud as facing forward ... it almost makes my ears bleed...i originally had them facing back before i gutted my trunik ...when it was stock ...and now since i lined it ll with the mdf and fiberglass it created like a symmetrical tunnel that ports the bass right off the tailgate and directly to my backseat...it sounds so great ...ill post some pics of it when i get my trunk upholstered

 
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<<

<< I have one 12 JL Audio W3 in my trunk running off of a Eclipse Amp. My boyfriend made a custom box with the correct specs, and installed it. It is sealed the box and faced it towards the trunk because it sounded the best. Facing it towards the interior didn't hit as hard. My boyfriend has two 12s and two 10s JL W3 and W6 customly installed in his trunk running off of two PPI amps now his car rocks! >>



As far as hitting harder that's the SPL part of it. As far as tonality and responce. that's a different matter. The foam Idea is good, I filled all my trunk and roof panels with 3m Minimal expanding foam. It helps ALOT.. Also over time if you have front speakers with good midbass your doors will start rattling. Just put some gasketing foam around the door clips. this will take car of the rattles. I still get new rattles in my car periodically, But I'm killing them as they appear.

CHeers
Mohawk >>



Where do I find this 3M minimal expanding foam? How is it applied to the car? And also what about the gasketing foam and its application? I've taken my existing Alpine CDA-7863 head unit and replaced the OEM CD player ('02 Civic Si coupe). This unit is pumping 60W/channel into the 6 OEM speakers, at an average of approximately 20W. Don't know how long they are going to last, but after 1 year of driving my '97 Si coupe, the OEM speakers remained intact when pumping that 20W average (my estimate).

My other concern is that the Alpine HU is sometimes drowning the (one) JL 12W3 sub that's powered by an Alpine MRV-T757 amplifier. Sometimes I have to take the fader and put the power to the rear so that I can get a balance of all 6 speakers + sub. I'm not an electrician, so I had the work (hu installation, rca cables, amp, and sub/box) done by a store here in MI. I've always been happy with my HU, but the amplifier and sub don't feel as substantial as I expected. Then again, I don't want the rest of the neighbourhood know me coming.

Appreciate the advice. Cheers,

PiCASSO

 
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<< Bake.. I used that same setup in ym old car. Sealed the subs off from the trunk. used the rear speaker holes for 6" Ports. Sound great, hit Mighty hard.

It's up to you. As long as they don't cut new holes I'd got for it. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] >>



Mohawk: As mention in the earlier message, I have a JL 12-W3 sub that's enclosed in this Tiny Box. The guys who put it all together say that size does not matter. Should I drill holes on the side or back of the box to get more punch out of my sub? I'm not exactly sure much wattage my amplifier (Alpine MRV-T757) is supplying to the sub... the specs call out with:

• Max Power (EIAJ) 225Wx2 (4ohm; Stereo) 750Wx1 (Bridged 4ohm)
• 12V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 75Wx2 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 150x2 Bridged 4ohm; (0.3% THD) 300x1
• 14.4V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 100Wx2 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 200x2 Bridged 4ohm; (0.3% THD) 400x1

Which means nothing to me... aside from knowing that there's only 1 channel being used (hence 1 sub) and that they hooked up the amplifier in stereo mode (which was originally in mono)... but as for the rest? I dunno.

Cheers,

PiCASSO

 
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Alright here is the deal you are talking about using one JL12w3 and your not running it mono. Why in the heck are you not running it bridged mono to drop the OHM'S on it some and get more power out of it and, also you got a crossover on it to fade out some of the highs that will go to it. Dont use the built in crossover bypass it and get you a cheap 50 dollor or more crossover. Trust me it will make all the diff. Facing your speaker to the rear is the best in civ unless you want to cut a hole out of your back dash and mount the box to the hole and the speaker in the hole as well. That will give you a huge amount of bass in the cab had to install that in a honda civ si three 10w0 in the back dash was awsome one of the best sounds i have ever heard pushed out about 130 or so and we had the amp in the trunk on the box which was sealed. Sealed is always the way to go man. Also one other thing you were complaining about your high end drowning out your bass. Thats caused by the sub not getting enough power you need to give it more juice do you have small guage wire going to your amp bump it up to some 4 gauge. alright.

 
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Alright here is the deal you are talking about using one JL12w3 and your not running it mono. Why in the heck are you not running it bridged mono to drop the OHM'S on it some and get more power out of it and, also you got a crossover on it to fade out some of the highs that will go to it. Dont use the built in crossover bypass it and get you a cheap 50 dollor or more crossover. Trust me it will make all the diff. Facing your speaker to the rear is the best in civ unless you want to cut a hole out of your back dash and mount the box to the hole and the speaker in the hole as well. That will give you a huge amount of bass in the cab had to install that in a honda civ si three 10w0 in the back dash was awsome one of the best sounds i have ever heard pushed out about 130 or so and we had the amp in the trunk on the box which was sealed. Sealed is always the way to go man. Also one other thing you were complaining about your high end drowning out your bass. Thats caused by the sub not getting enough power you need to give it more juice do you have small guage wire going to your amp bump it up to some 4 gauge. alright.