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double post sorry dont know why it did that damn
up at work and our systems have locks on them have to bypass the locks sorry guy

 
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Picasso,

Wcooper gave some reasonable advice there..but the amps built in 12db/octave crossover is plenty fine. If you run the amp mono you'll have to wire your subs coils in series. that way it'll get about 350Wrms at 8ohm.. THis may not sound IDeal, but you won't blow the sub..at 8ohms the amp's damping factor will be of more use and it will have better subwoofer controll, thus better sound...the on;y problem your having right now is that the gains on your amp are set too low... if your only turn it up 1/3 of the way or so.. and your HU has 4 volt pre-outs, then put your gain to just under the 2 volt mark...(play with it a little see what sounds best) and that should solve your problem.

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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hey mohawk, where did you get that link? didnt just find it surfing the web, did you?

 
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Actually someone else posted it up here last summer and I brought it back to life cause a few folks asked about it..

Installer.com pretty informative sight

 
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<< Picasso,

Wcooper gave some reasonable advice there..but the amps built in 12db/octave crossover is plenty fine. If you run the amp mono you'll have to wire your subs coils in series. that way it'll get about 350Wrms at 8ohm.. THis may not sound IDeal, but you won't blow the sub..at 8ohms the amp's damping factor will be of more use and it will have better subwoofer controll, thus better sound...the on;y problem your having right now is that the gains on your amp are set too low... if your only turn it up 1/3 of the way or so.. and your HU has 4 volt pre-outs, then put your gain to just under the 2 volt mark...(play with it a little see what sounds best) and that should solve your problem.

Cheers
Mohawk >>



I appreciate everyones help on this one... I'll let you boys know what transpired in the last few days. Well, I had someone inspect my car and I found out that I had the wiring from my battery at 10-gauge which was running to my Alpine MRV-T757 amplifier. This person told me that I would need at least 8-gauge to support that output from the amplifier, preferably at 4. And with respect to my subwoofer wiring, it was at 16. So I confronted the guys who setup my car up and asked why I had 10 and 16-gauge setup in my car. They told me that as a standard (basic setup), the 10/16guage wiring is free with the amp/sub combination, only the 16-foot RCA's cost $25.

I said fine, please check again my system with respect to the subwoofer (JL Audio 12W3-D4). So they did and then admitted that the amplifier (T757) isn't pumping enough juice. It was, btw, at approximately 80% gain at 4-ohm (which is in combination with the subwoofer's internal 4-ohm setup). They claimed that the Alpine amplifier could be defective. I really couldn't believe that, but they said that they won't know unless they swamp it. I said okay. So I upgraded to a JL Audio 250/1 amplier... which ran me another $100 (yeah, I know). At the same time, I said that I wanted to swamp the 10-guage wiring and move it to 4. They said that I don't need it, and 8 would do just fine. But I figured that in a few years, I may want to add more amps, subs, and other crazy ****. So 4 it was.

In the mean time, I question the 16-gauge speaker wire running to my sub. I asked for 10, and they told me it would be an overkill. I asked why. Well, they showed me a 12W3 sub and surely the sub had something that looked like nothing less than 16, which ran from the speaker to the coil. And that convinced me that I didn't need anything heavier running to my sub...

Well, after they've installed the new amp and 4-gauge wiring (and also some nifty 4-g fuse holder), I could not believe the difference. I had never known the potential of my 12W3 sub in that tiny little box (without portholes). Additionally, my subwoofer controls on my Alpine CDA-7863 was working beautifully... where I could tell significantly the difference between 0 and 15 settings. And for the last few days, I've been maintianing my sub-out at mid-level (7) which is more than enough bass for my ears to handle.

I'm happy now. But I wished those ***** would have admitted to a faulty amplifier back in October when I first got the system. I guess they simply wanted to releave inventory... which would explian why the Alpine MRV-T757 amplifier was on-sale @ $240.

Any further comments and suggestions would be appreciated.


Cheers,

PiCASSO [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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16 guage wiring for subs is actually okay.. 26 guage wire ran 3 feet can handle alot of power[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. but the resistance in the wire is working against your amps damping factor..thus not helping sub controll too much..12 Guage wire is More than sufficient.. 10 Guage wire is only really useful if your running over a 1000watts..otherwise 12 is more than adequate..(okay I use 10 guage lol.. but I bought a 250ft roll off ebay for $99 canadian and it's TIFF Speaker wire so it was a steal..I even ran the 10 guage to my components (insanely overkill) but they.. he he..


as far as your subproblems working and the amp.. yeah.. Very glad for you.. The 10 guage wire run 16 ft is only good for about 300 watts at most before the wires resistance starts becomign a hindering factor..

going with 4 guage was a wise choice cause hey..you never what you'll upgrade to [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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I was actually thinking of poting my trunk as well, id have to cut port hole in the speaker lid by my rear windshield and put some sort of bandpass tubes, and to replace that part in the car is like 97 dollars so i might try it and see if it works i know the SQ is alot better when I have my rear seats down, so it makes sense that porting the trunk into the cabin will have the same effect without me having to fold down my seats, i am doing a map of the trunk right now to find the most space effective and appealing locations for the sounbd components I can scan it in if any of you want to have dimensions and a picture to play around with

Lates!

 
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<< I was actually thinking of poting my trunk as well, id have to cut port hole in the speaker lid by my rear windshield and put some sort of bandpass tubes, and to replace that part in the car is like 97 dollars so i might try it and see if it works i know the SQ is alot better when I have my rear seats down, so it makes sense that porting the trunk into the cabin will have the same effect without me having to fold down my seats, i am doing a map of the trunk right now to find the most space effective and appealing locations for the sounbd components I can scan it in if any of you want to have dimensions and a picture to play around with

Lates! >>



Much better Idea.. Ditch the rear speakers.. make Solding rings out of 1/2" MDF.. mount the rings on top of your speaker holes (basically just to reinforce the flimsy metal) and you now have a ported trunk.. Using actual ports will turn your trunk into a very badly tuned bandpass box dude [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]