Let's talk carputers, people!
06-05-2005
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Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Let's talk carputers, people!
Hey all, as I'm but a n00b on the carputer scene, I'm not posting this as any sort of authority, but I've been getting a lot of questions on my setup as of late, and I'm sure my other Civic-puter brethren are being asked a lot as well. So let's chat a little shall we? I don't feel the need to get too deep into specs or anything, I just wanted to lay out in a basic and general manner what's out there for those who just can't leave Windows at home. This first post will be VERY incomplete so I'm hoping some of you other guys will be able to fill in the blanks.
Hardware:
1) Screens - the first part anyone will see of your carputer, the system is useless without one, right? The most reputable LCD monitors that people seem to be able to afford are made by Xenarc and Lilliput. Actually correction, these screens are not brand spankin new. They're actually refurbished arcade console screens (when mine gets overloaded, it dimly displays a jurassic park logo). The Xenarc, while more expensive than the Lilliput, offers better picture quality, proven reliability, and it turns on as soon as power is applied to it (Lilliput has to be turned on manually). But if you're on a budget, the Lilli is not a bad option. Touchscreen interface via USB is available on these models for extra cost. And unless you're of the trackball school of computer interface, I highly recommend the touchscreen version. Having a mouse you have to move around (try finding a big enough flat surface in your car, ha ha) is a bit of a bother.
While the standard screens used for carputerness are usually just flat VGA-input screens with a casing you can remove for molding, Xenarc has also released an in-dash version of their VGA monitors as well. Helps for those who don't want to mold or fabricate a bracket. The 7" monitors fit almost perfectly in our consoles by the way. Some, like 909, have gone even bigger, but then you have to relocate the climate control ***** to accomodate the extra console plastic you have to remove.
2) CPU/MB/RAM - most people seem to be pretty happy using Pentium 3 chips and motherboards in their carputer setups, but some have gone further, up to P4 (Mobile too). Obviously the higher the processor speed the better the performance, but with a carputer there are limits you have to observe that desktop PC's aren't bound by, such as power usage (more on that later), and heat. People running AMD chips know that they run freakin ridiculous hot, and this is not a good thing if you're running a carputer in the trunk. Many of you are already running amps back there, and if you live in a hot region (AZ, Cali, etc) then the problem is compounded. There's not much room to ventilate in some trunk setups, so make sure when you plan your layout you make accomodation for air circulation; keep those case and CPU fans pushing cool air around.
Like processor speed, the general RAM rule is the more the merrier. But more RAM chips = more power usage. Consider as well that with dual-channel RAM setups, 2 DIMMs of 512MB each will theoretically outperform a single 1GB DIMM in single-channel. One must find a balance. Myself I'm running 3 DIMMs with no problems....but I do plan on changing to dual-channel to save some wattage (each DIMM uses 5 watts PEAK according to most power calculators).
To save valuable trunk/car space, most people go with microATX or miniITX form factor motherboards. The only thing you really lose is a PCI slot or two, and when you get to the power supply section you'll see why you should keep things simple anyway.
3) Video/Sound/network/other PCI cards - Here is where many people really make a huge sacrifice from the desktop PC field. While a desktop PC, as long as its power supply is fairly beefy, can run faster and hotter video cards, a carputer doesn't need such craziness (most people run their 7" screens at 800x600 or 800x480). So no need for that high-powered ATI Radeon, they suck up huge amounts of power and they generate tons of heat, which are both bad for your setup. I know for a while I was getting along great just using my onboard Intel Extreme Graphics video controller on my ASUS board, but I got greedy and decided to test a Radeon 7200 in there. Hell, it was a gift anyway, and if it dies I still have the onboard Intel one. If your carputer isn't booting up, try removing your PCI/AGP video card and using the onboard one, or get a card with slightly lower spec. 32MB memory on the card should be plenty for your purposes.
A big issue with carputers is the sound card. Internal PCI cards (preferably with RCA outputs) are great, they just slap right in there and usually Windows picks up the drivers no sweat. But they're subject to horrific amounts of noise even on your desktop machine, so just imagine how bad they are when running in a car with all those dodgy ground points, vibration, alternator whine, whew! A friend pointed out to me that a USB sound card like the Creative MP3+ USB card (has RCA in/out), since running outside the case and not subject to the same noise sources as a PCI card, would have very minimal noise when installed. I couldn't be happier with it. Some people even went a step further and got the Creative LIVE USB card, but apparently there have been software problems with it. I dunno really, I haven't been watching that cause I'm still happy with my current card.
Besides those two, I would guess the only other internal cards people would want are wireless network ones. Useful when parked outside a starbucks I guess, but I mean, when's the last time you had to MSN a friend while driving? I plan on getting a USB one that I can plug in and remove at will, I don't want something taking up power and RAM searching for a signal while I'm driving. Every kilobyte counts, every watt precious.
4) Drives - Well, you've gotta store your Chappelle's Show DVD rips somewhere right? There seems to be a trend towards using a laptop hard drive on a carputer as opposed to the standard 3.5" ATA/SATA drives. Laptops have a maximum of 100GB storage whereas 200GB or more is common to 3.5". So why do people opt for the smaller, more expensive (per MB), slower laptop 2.5" drives? Well, desktop 3.5" drives are made for desktop machines, that experience a minimum of movement and vibration. Laptop hard drives are meant to withstand way more shock (300G operational, up to 1000G static) than desktop units, which is perfect for car use, especially for those like me who like their rides stiff and low. But hey, there are tons of success stories of people using 7200rpm 3.5" SATA hard drives on carputer. Just remember, shaking ANY hard drive around regularly WILL shorten its lifespan, so make backups frequently to avoid having to reinstall all your software and restore files.
DVD or CD ROM drives are also quite handy to have in a carputer setup. Again many people go for the laptop versions of these because of the more secure loading tray, lower power consumption, and casings, which really help when placing in our not-super-spacious interiors. People are getting cocky and putting burners in too. I'm running a Plextor SATA burner in my car, I actually burned a few CD's while on the road (not while actually driving, I started them while in the parking lot). Works great, but since it's a desktop unit I expect it to give out sooner than if it were in my craptastic Compaq Deskpro that I'm typing on right now. Just a hint, if you can find a way to extend your cables reliably, a 5.25" desktop CD burner fits perfectly in the slot right next to the ebrake on the 01-02 Civics.
5) Input devices - Touchscreen! It's THE way to go on a carputer setup. But if you can't afford it, of course your standard keyboard and mouse combo will work. Some go for hardwired, some wireless. If you decide you want a wireless input device try not to get infrared, which requires line of sight between the device and receiver. Go radio wireless ie Logitech, for flexibility mounting the receiver. I have yet to see someone mold a trackball into their Civic carputer setup....but I think it would be handy-dandy. Added note: some people eschew a keyboard and mouse altogether, relying mainly on touchscreen and the Windows onscreen keyboard. Not bad, but if your screen is small and you have manly fingers, you're gonna get a lot of typos. Those buttons are freakin tiny man!
6) GPS hardware - GPS receivers for navi are cheap and easy to find (ebay, etc). I myself am running a Rikaline 6010u receiver that cost me less than 60CDN shipped. Works great. However, GPS software is neither easily found OR cheap, and that's where you're gonna get dinged, for a couple hundred bucks. More on GPS software later. Oh, keep in mind that a GPS receiver needs direct line of sight to the sky so it can pick up satellite positioning signal. Mine didn't work behind my rear window's tint, so until I extend the USB cable to the front dash, it's gonna sit on my trunk lid while driving.
7) Power supplies - There are two schools for power supplies and management on a carputer. The easier, but generally more expensive option, would be to just get a DC-DC power supply like the Opus. This is what I use, and it can be configured to turn off or on with the car, for seamless use. However, the main problem is the limit...currently the Opus only comes in capacity up to 150W. Not much by today's standards, so you really have to check the specs on ALL hardware you plan to use, and make sure that added up you're not going to overload the Opus's 12V and 5V rails. Unnecessary peripherals should be removed.
There is also the method of using a regular PC power supply, running it off an inverter that is hooked to your car's battery. Theoretically this enables you to run more stuff since the power supplies that come with most PC's nowadays are in the 300W range and higher. This is definitely much cheaper but you have to ensure you get an inverter that won't generate too much interference. This can be heard in alternator whine and seen in lines going across/down your screen. You have to turn off the power on your PC manually with this setup, or you could simply buy a shutdown/startup controller that will essentially wait till the car's accessory wires are getting power before startiing up, and turning off the computer when accessory power is off. Again, the Opus DC-DC power supply does this automatically.
If it comes in USB or serial interface, it can be added to your carputer, but remember that any item you add to your setup will eat up some of your precious and LIMITED power. If your carputer is hooked up but not turning on, you may have too many hardware components loaded and drawing power. Trim the fat, start from a bare minimum and add extra items in order of importance.
Software:
1) OS - Windows XP is the software of choice for carputers. Everyone who's developing for carputers generally develops for XP and 2000. The thing is you want optimum peformance, so you should strip your installation right down. Turn off those services like "Print Spooler" and such - I mean, you're never gonna need to print from a carputer right? There are tons of utilities for installing a stripped version of WinXP. Some people have successfully installed Mac-based carputers, which I'm sure is plenty fast and stable, but I'm not a Mac guru so I'll leave that topic for someone who is. Same goes for Linux, I've heard of a few installs using it but never dealt with it myself.
2) Front end - navigating through Windows XP on a 7" screen with 800x600 resolution can be a challenge. Believe me I tried just getting by on Windows but there was no possible way I could safely punch away to change my playlist while driving. So I got myself a copy of MediaCar, which integrates all the core carputer software (DVD, MP3, CD, and video players, GPS, radio) into a touchscreen-friendly, customizable package. There are dozens of front end packages out there, mostly free to download and use. You have to find the one that appeals to you most via its features and layout. mp3car.com is a great place to find all of these.
3) GPS - Like I mentioned before, GPS software is a personalized choice. What works for some might not work for others. When researching, make sure you view the screenshots, read the reviews, talk to (and try the setups of) people who have the GPS software suites you're interested in before you plunk down your hard-earned cash. Destinator and iGuidance seem to be tops right now. Microsoft's Mappoint and Streets & Trips packages also seem to be good, but they're definitely not small-touchscreen-friendly.
I've got more to add on this, but I'm passing out so I'm gonna stop here and open it up to my fellow carputer brethren to add their input. And if someone wants to post resource links for me, that would be great, I can't even keep my eyes open anymore.
Hardware:
1) Screens - the first part anyone will see of your carputer, the system is useless without one, right? The most reputable LCD monitors that people seem to be able to afford are made by Xenarc and Lilliput. Actually correction, these screens are not brand spankin new. They're actually refurbished arcade console screens (when mine gets overloaded, it dimly displays a jurassic park logo). The Xenarc, while more expensive than the Lilliput, offers better picture quality, proven reliability, and it turns on as soon as power is applied to it (Lilliput has to be turned on manually). But if you're on a budget, the Lilli is not a bad option. Touchscreen interface via USB is available on these models for extra cost. And unless you're of the trackball school of computer interface, I highly recommend the touchscreen version. Having a mouse you have to move around (try finding a big enough flat surface in your car, ha ha) is a bit of a bother.
While the standard screens used for carputerness are usually just flat VGA-input screens with a casing you can remove for molding, Xenarc has also released an in-dash version of their VGA monitors as well. Helps for those who don't want to mold or fabricate a bracket. The 7" monitors fit almost perfectly in our consoles by the way. Some, like 909, have gone even bigger, but then you have to relocate the climate control ***** to accomodate the extra console plastic you have to remove.
2) CPU/MB/RAM - most people seem to be pretty happy using Pentium 3 chips and motherboards in their carputer setups, but some have gone further, up to P4 (Mobile too). Obviously the higher the processor speed the better the performance, but with a carputer there are limits you have to observe that desktop PC's aren't bound by, such as power usage (more on that later), and heat. People running AMD chips know that they run freakin ridiculous hot, and this is not a good thing if you're running a carputer in the trunk. Many of you are already running amps back there, and if you live in a hot region (AZ, Cali, etc) then the problem is compounded. There's not much room to ventilate in some trunk setups, so make sure when you plan your layout you make accomodation for air circulation; keep those case and CPU fans pushing cool air around.
Like processor speed, the general RAM rule is the more the merrier. But more RAM chips = more power usage. Consider as well that with dual-channel RAM setups, 2 DIMMs of 512MB each will theoretically outperform a single 1GB DIMM in single-channel. One must find a balance. Myself I'm running 3 DIMMs with no problems....but I do plan on changing to dual-channel to save some wattage (each DIMM uses 5 watts PEAK according to most power calculators).
To save valuable trunk/car space, most people go with microATX or miniITX form factor motherboards. The only thing you really lose is a PCI slot or two, and when you get to the power supply section you'll see why you should keep things simple anyway.
3) Video/Sound/network/other PCI cards - Here is where many people really make a huge sacrifice from the desktop PC field. While a desktop PC, as long as its power supply is fairly beefy, can run faster and hotter video cards, a carputer doesn't need such craziness (most people run their 7" screens at 800x600 or 800x480). So no need for that high-powered ATI Radeon, they suck up huge amounts of power and they generate tons of heat, which are both bad for your setup. I know for a while I was getting along great just using my onboard Intel Extreme Graphics video controller on my ASUS board, but I got greedy and decided to test a Radeon 7200 in there. Hell, it was a gift anyway, and if it dies I still have the onboard Intel one. If your carputer isn't booting up, try removing your PCI/AGP video card and using the onboard one, or get a card with slightly lower spec. 32MB memory on the card should be plenty for your purposes.
A big issue with carputers is the sound card. Internal PCI cards (preferably with RCA outputs) are great, they just slap right in there and usually Windows picks up the drivers no sweat. But they're subject to horrific amounts of noise even on your desktop machine, so just imagine how bad they are when running in a car with all those dodgy ground points, vibration, alternator whine, whew! A friend pointed out to me that a USB sound card like the Creative MP3+ USB card (has RCA in/out), since running outside the case and not subject to the same noise sources as a PCI card, would have very minimal noise when installed. I couldn't be happier with it. Some people even went a step further and got the Creative LIVE USB card, but apparently there have been software problems with it. I dunno really, I haven't been watching that cause I'm still happy with my current card.
Besides those two, I would guess the only other internal cards people would want are wireless network ones. Useful when parked outside a starbucks I guess, but I mean, when's the last time you had to MSN a friend while driving? I plan on getting a USB one that I can plug in and remove at will, I don't want something taking up power and RAM searching for a signal while I'm driving. Every kilobyte counts, every watt precious.
4) Drives - Well, you've gotta store your Chappelle's Show DVD rips somewhere right? There seems to be a trend towards using a laptop hard drive on a carputer as opposed to the standard 3.5" ATA/SATA drives. Laptops have a maximum of 100GB storage whereas 200GB or more is common to 3.5". So why do people opt for the smaller, more expensive (per MB), slower laptop 2.5" drives? Well, desktop 3.5" drives are made for desktop machines, that experience a minimum of movement and vibration. Laptop hard drives are meant to withstand way more shock (300G operational, up to 1000G static) than desktop units, which is perfect for car use, especially for those like me who like their rides stiff and low. But hey, there are tons of success stories of people using 7200rpm 3.5" SATA hard drives on carputer. Just remember, shaking ANY hard drive around regularly WILL shorten its lifespan, so make backups frequently to avoid having to reinstall all your software and restore files.
DVD or CD ROM drives are also quite handy to have in a carputer setup. Again many people go for the laptop versions of these because of the more secure loading tray, lower power consumption, and casings, which really help when placing in our not-super-spacious interiors. People are getting cocky and putting burners in too. I'm running a Plextor SATA burner in my car, I actually burned a few CD's while on the road (not while actually driving, I started them while in the parking lot). Works great, but since it's a desktop unit I expect it to give out sooner than if it were in my craptastic Compaq Deskpro that I'm typing on right now. Just a hint, if you can find a way to extend your cables reliably, a 5.25" desktop CD burner fits perfectly in the slot right next to the ebrake on the 01-02 Civics.
5) Input devices - Touchscreen! It's THE way to go on a carputer setup. But if you can't afford it, of course your standard keyboard and mouse combo will work. Some go for hardwired, some wireless. If you decide you want a wireless input device try not to get infrared, which requires line of sight between the device and receiver. Go radio wireless ie Logitech, for flexibility mounting the receiver. I have yet to see someone mold a trackball into their Civic carputer setup....but I think it would be handy-dandy. Added note: some people eschew a keyboard and mouse altogether, relying mainly on touchscreen and the Windows onscreen keyboard. Not bad, but if your screen is small and you have manly fingers, you're gonna get a lot of typos. Those buttons are freakin tiny man!
6) GPS hardware - GPS receivers for navi are cheap and easy to find (ebay, etc). I myself am running a Rikaline 6010u receiver that cost me less than 60CDN shipped. Works great. However, GPS software is neither easily found OR cheap, and that's where you're gonna get dinged, for a couple hundred bucks. More on GPS software later. Oh, keep in mind that a GPS receiver needs direct line of sight to the sky so it can pick up satellite positioning signal. Mine didn't work behind my rear window's tint, so until I extend the USB cable to the front dash, it's gonna sit on my trunk lid while driving.
7) Power supplies - There are two schools for power supplies and management on a carputer. The easier, but generally more expensive option, would be to just get a DC-DC power supply like the Opus. This is what I use, and it can be configured to turn off or on with the car, for seamless use. However, the main problem is the limit...currently the Opus only comes in capacity up to 150W. Not much by today's standards, so you really have to check the specs on ALL hardware you plan to use, and make sure that added up you're not going to overload the Opus's 12V and 5V rails. Unnecessary peripherals should be removed.
There is also the method of using a regular PC power supply, running it off an inverter that is hooked to your car's battery. Theoretically this enables you to run more stuff since the power supplies that come with most PC's nowadays are in the 300W range and higher. This is definitely much cheaper but you have to ensure you get an inverter that won't generate too much interference. This can be heard in alternator whine and seen in lines going across/down your screen. You have to turn off the power on your PC manually with this setup, or you could simply buy a shutdown/startup controller that will essentially wait till the car's accessory wires are getting power before startiing up, and turning off the computer when accessory power is off. Again, the Opus DC-DC power supply does this automatically.
If it comes in USB or serial interface, it can be added to your carputer, but remember that any item you add to your setup will eat up some of your precious and LIMITED power. If your carputer is hooked up but not turning on, you may have too many hardware components loaded and drawing power. Trim the fat, start from a bare minimum and add extra items in order of importance.
Software:
1) OS - Windows XP is the software of choice for carputers. Everyone who's developing for carputers generally develops for XP and 2000. The thing is you want optimum peformance, so you should strip your installation right down. Turn off those services like "Print Spooler" and such - I mean, you're never gonna need to print from a carputer right? There are tons of utilities for installing a stripped version of WinXP. Some people have successfully installed Mac-based carputers, which I'm sure is plenty fast and stable, but I'm not a Mac guru so I'll leave that topic for someone who is. Same goes for Linux, I've heard of a few installs using it but never dealt with it myself.
2) Front end - navigating through Windows XP on a 7" screen with 800x600 resolution can be a challenge. Believe me I tried just getting by on Windows but there was no possible way I could safely punch away to change my playlist while driving. So I got myself a copy of MediaCar, which integrates all the core carputer software (DVD, MP3, CD, and video players, GPS, radio) into a touchscreen-friendly, customizable package. There are dozens of front end packages out there, mostly free to download and use. You have to find the one that appeals to you most via its features and layout. mp3car.com is a great place to find all of these.
3) GPS - Like I mentioned before, GPS software is a personalized choice. What works for some might not work for others. When researching, make sure you view the screenshots, read the reviews, talk to (and try the setups of) people who have the GPS software suites you're interested in before you plunk down your hard-earned cash. Destinator and iGuidance seem to be tops right now. Microsoft's Mappoint and Streets & Trips packages also seem to be good, but they're definitely not small-touchscreen-friendly.
I've got more to add on this, but I'm passing out so I'm gonna stop here and open it up to my fellow carputer brethren to add their input. And if someone wants to post resource links for me, that would be great, I can't even keep my eyes open anymore.
06-05-2005
#2
nice.......
but what u've think more is about the location where these stuffs gonna be stored..
anybody here know anything like they got inside a trooper car? i really want to get one of those holder....lol
for carputer....u might want to consider microsoft street and trips...i've to say that their library and search query is one of the best.....
but what u've think more is about the location where these stuffs gonna be stored..
anybody here know anything like they got inside a trooper car? i really want to get one of those holder....lol
for carputer....u might want to consider microsoft street and trips...i've to say that their library and search query is one of the best.....
06-05-2005
#3
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Rep Power: 0 Many are running windows XP if they are booting off a hard drive. Others (the smart people) that want fast boot and no moving parts boot off of a flash drive and are running a cut down win 98, linux or running a mac mini.
06-05-2005
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Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Originally Posted by SpecialEdCivic
Many are running windows XP if they are booting off a hard drive. Others (the smart people) that want fast boot and no moving parts boot off of a flash drive and are running a cut down win 98, linux or running a mac mini.
06-05-2005
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Rep Power: 265 i wanna learn more of this botting off a flash device thing?
as i want to do that and use teh hard drive as storage.. like a usb key work right?
also i'm trying to get linux and a good touch screen app for it. with gps nav!! woot!
as i want to do that and use teh hard drive as storage.. like a usb key work right?
also i'm trying to get linux and a good touch screen app for it. with gps nav!! woot!
06-05-2005
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Here are some sites that can help.
http://www.carputerclub.com/
http://indashpc.org/software.html
http://www.dashpc.com/
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=15854
http://www.stevieg.org/carpc/
http://www.bradleyjacobs.com/carputer1/index.html
I hope these help and you could save money doing this mod over a store bought dvd nav unit.
Here are some sites that can help.
http://www.carputerclub.com/
http://indashpc.org/software.html
http://www.dashpc.com/
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=15854
http://www.stevieg.org/carpc/
http://www.bradleyjacobs.com/carputer1/index.html
I hope these help and you could save money doing this mod over a store bought dvd nav unit.
06-05-2005
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Rep Power: 0 Pretty simple, every pc has a bios(basic input/ouput system) its in there that you can configure your pc to boot what ever your motherboard supports, like usb,server client,sata..and so on. I thought about this for mine, I have decided to sata 80 or 160gb. there pretty fast and the pc itself will only be for music so I'll not need to install any other sofware but the os. I have decided to make a small rack and mount it undernieth my rear decklid becuase I have removed my rear speakers anyway, then motorize the rack.
ps. To get to bios most pc's you press the "delete" button when first boot begins others include:
dell f1 or f2
compac/HP same f1 or f2
gateway throw it out!...J/K its f8!
with gigabyte, asus, and all the rest of the buildit your self its just delete.
ps. To get to bios most pc's you press the "delete" button when first boot begins others include:
dell f1 or f2
compac/HP same f1 or f2
gateway throw it out!...J/K its f8!
with gigabyte, asus, and all the rest of the buildit your self its just delete.
Last edited by ex_03; 06-05-2005 at 01:19 PM.
06-05-2005
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Rep Power: 265 yeah so im seriosuly looking intot his
if i got a 128mb usb stick.. could is et it up on this home pc to boot and have all the apps i needed
also i wanna do gps. so i need to find a good usb reciever for that. hmm
ive been wanting to do this for quite some time.
but reeeally need help on setting up an os onto a memory stick im thinking probably a lower end linux that direct boots to a nice touch screen app. i want to intergrate gps nav, mp3 player dvd and all the movie kinds.
plan to have a 128mb stick running boot. and a large hdd sitting for storage
usb touch, keyboard, mouse, gps wireless network card,
help ppls
these sites dotn give nough info on setting up linux on a stick 
if i got a 128mb usb stick.. could is et it up on this home pc to boot and have all the apps i needed
also i wanna do gps. so i need to find a good usb reciever for that. hmm
ive been wanting to do this for quite some time.
but reeeally need help on setting up an os onto a memory stick im thinking probably a lower end linux that direct boots to a nice touch screen app. i want to intergrate gps nav, mp3 player dvd and all the movie kinds.
plan to have a 128mb stick running boot. and a large hdd sitting for storage
usb touch, keyboard, mouse, gps wireless network card,
help ppls
these sites dotn give nough info on setting up linux on a stick
06-05-2005
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Rep Power: 0 The bios may not say boot usb device but it will say boot off other device or look for other boot device. I am kind of a computer geek so if you have questoins on stuff feel free to pm me or post here.
06-06-2005
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Rep Power: 0 Yea on propitary equipment like dell, compac, and gateways you most likely will not see an option to boot usb or other devices. I speak mainly on build it yourself boards like gigabyte, asus, msi..Theres a store in michigan called "computer builders warehouse" I can get a 1.5 amd 256 ddr with msi combo mother board and case for about 150.00 out the door, so just a harddrive is needed. Tahts what I am probably going to do.
06-06-2005
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Rep Power: 286 Guys, there is no need to boot from flash if boot speed is you concern. First off, if you enable quick post in BIOS, and dont' have uneccessary startup items and processes, you should be able to boot quick enough from an ATA 7200RPM HDD. That being said, there is no need to even do that. Just enable Suspend to Ram or S3 or Whatever the hell else kids are calling it these days, and when you shutdown, power is cut to everything except a tiny, harmless trickle of power which keeps your ram kindled up and when you awaking the pc by some USB device or a button, it fires everything back up power wise. Do a google, or check out www.MP3Car.com
06-06-2005
#16
i boogie for the raindrops
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so
at this point i would like to discuss pc controlled relay boards and give you guys a few little tips so as to make your carputers even more functional.
those of you who were able to build such a carputer, really shouldnt need my help with relays and the ridiculous functionality that one could achieve.
now
some of these boards come a-la pci, some parallel, some usb, and i think a few on a serial port.
for those of you with itty bitty cases with no extra pci slots, of course im going to reccomend the parallel port or usb controlled ones.
for example:
take this here sucker:
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=6074+KT
and control with this software made by one of the mp3car.com members
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...86&postcount=2
and you get
digital control of eight sources in your car.
the best part is that that software is open source, so you could change the titles on the little window to say things like "headlights" or whatever else your little heart desires.
any questions?
so
at this point i would like to discuss pc controlled relay boards and give you guys a few little tips so as to make your carputers even more functional.
those of you who were able to build such a carputer, really shouldnt need my help with relays and the ridiculous functionality that one could achieve.
now
some of these boards come a-la pci, some parallel, some usb, and i think a few on a serial port.
for those of you with itty bitty cases with no extra pci slots, of course im going to reccomend the parallel port or usb controlled ones.
for example:
take this here sucker:
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=6074+KT
and control with this software made by one of the mp3car.com members
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...86&postcount=2
and you get
digital control of eight sources in your car.
the best part is that that software is open source, so you could change the titles on the little window to say things like "headlights" or whatever else your little heart desires.
any questions?
06-06-2005
#17
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: MA
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Originally Posted by LudlamTheory
ok
so
at this point i would like to discuss pc controlled relay boards and give you guys a few little tips so as to make your carputers even more functional.
those of you who were able to build such a carputer, really shouldnt need my help with relays and the ridiculous functionality that one could achieve.
now
some of these boards come a-la pci, some parallel, some usb, and i think a few on a serial port.
for those of you with itty bitty cases with no extra pci slots, of course im going to reccomend the parallel port or usb controlled ones.
for example:
take this here sucker:
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=6074+KT
and control with this software made by one of the mp3car.com members
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...86&postcount=2
and you get
digital control of eight sources in your car.
the best part is that that software is open source, so you could change the titles on the little window to say things like "headlights" or whatever else your little heart desires.
any questions?
so
at this point i would like to discuss pc controlled relay boards and give you guys a few little tips so as to make your carputers even more functional.
those of you who were able to build such a carputer, really shouldnt need my help with relays and the ridiculous functionality that one could achieve.
now
some of these boards come a-la pci, some parallel, some usb, and i think a few on a serial port.
for those of you with itty bitty cases with no extra pci slots, of course im going to reccomend the parallel port or usb controlled ones.
for example:
take this here sucker:
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=6074+KT
and control with this software made by one of the mp3car.com members
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...86&postcount=2
and you get
digital control of eight sources in your car.
the best part is that that software is open source, so you could change the titles on the little window to say things like "headlights" or whatever else your little heart desires.
any questions?
06-06-2005
#18
i boogie for the raindrops
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Location: Jackson, Mississippi
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Originally Posted by J187
I have a question, were you able to fix your Cruise control??
06-06-2005
#19
I'll flip out and kill people.
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Rep Power: 341 in my experience, amd's run cooler than p4's, assuming theres no overclocking. amds usually come with superior heat sinks if you get them in the retail box. my p4 2.8 runs at about 40C, while my amd athlon runs at 30-35C
06-06-2005
#20
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Originally Posted by LudlamTheory
ive been so horribly broke, that i cant even afford to buy a can of butane to refill my cordless soldering iron...
06-06-2005
#21
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Originally Posted by modoman
in my experience, amd's run cooler than p4's, assuming theres no overclocking. amds usually come with superior heat sinks if you get them in the retail box. my p4 2.8 runs at about 40C, while my amd athlon runs at 30-35C
06-06-2005
#22
i boogie for the raindrops
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Location: Jackson, Mississippi
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Originally Posted by J187
Terrible. Just terrible. My Cordless doesn't hold butane for S^^t! It always needs more. Grrr. Anyway, I was just curious how it all worked out, good luck.
he has never failed me
and the blowtorch tip is cool to have
06-06-2005
#23
The blackbeauty ES1.
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Rep Power: 0 gah..i'll just make a custom mount for my laptop or something..haha..
its not creative..but at least i can take it on the go with me out of the car.
Get Aux in head unit..and all my music and movies in the car..
its not creative..but at least i can take it on the go with me out of the car.
Get Aux in head unit..and all my music and movies in the car..
06-06-2005
#24
Registered!!
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Originally Posted by LudlamTheory
ok
so
at this point i would like to discuss pc controlled relay boards and give you guys a few little tips so as to make your carputers even more functional.
those of you who were able to build such a carputer, really shouldnt need my help with relays and the ridiculous functionality that one could achieve.
now
some of these boards come a-la pci, some parallel, some usb, and i think a few on a serial port.
for those of you with itty bitty cases with no extra pci slots, of course im going to reccomend the parallel port or usb controlled ones.
for example:
take this here sucker:
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=6074+KT
and control with this software made by one of the mp3car.com members
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...86&postcount=2
and you get
digital control of eight sources in your car.
the best part is that that software is open source, so you could change the titles on the little window to say things like "headlights" or whatever else your little heart desires.
any questions?
so
at this point i would like to discuss pc controlled relay boards and give you guys a few little tips so as to make your carputers even more functional.
those of you who were able to build such a carputer, really shouldnt need my help with relays and the ridiculous functionality that one could achieve.
now
some of these boards come a-la pci, some parallel, some usb, and i think a few on a serial port.
for those of you with itty bitty cases with no extra pci slots, of course im going to reccomend the parallel port or usb controlled ones.
for example:
take this here sucker:
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=6074+KT
and control with this software made by one of the mp3car.com members
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...86&postcount=2
and you get
digital control of eight sources in your car.
the best part is that that software is open source, so you could change the titles on the little window to say things like "headlights" or whatever else your little heart desires.
any questions?
so ic ould run head lgihts fog lights high beams.. undeglow lights and everything off a touch screen
dude your my hero
i never saw that on mp3car before hehe. could use a much nice GUI but willd o for now. hmm so now to figure it all out haha.
also do you guys know of a control unit we can use ont he 7thgens for a/c and other controls by the computer? thatw ould be teh ****
06-06-2005
#25
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Originally Posted by LudlamTheory
ive been so horribly broke, that i cant even afford to buy a can of butane to refill my cordless soldering iron...
06-06-2005
#26
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Rep Power: 344 Hey Ludlam I have a bottle of butane.....I use it to fill all my lighters...which I light pipes with, LOL.
Props on that relay thingy too....an option I just might want to explore later once I clean up my current install and finish my second molded screen.
Props on that relay thingy too....an option I just might want to explore later once I clean up my current install and finish my second molded screen.
06-06-2005
#27
i boogie for the raindrops
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Originally Posted by ex_03
must be all the drugs you waist your money on!
