Kicker L5 Or L7?
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I personally would not go with L5 if your looking for tons of bass, both sound the same, the L7 is higher power handling. If you got the bucks go SOLO-X 10",12",15".I got my SOLO-X12" for $600.00. Has a rms of 2000 sealed,5000 rms spl.
and before someone disputes this, I got this from kickers site:
http://www.kicker.com/05/05kicker.html
and before someone disputes this, I got this from kickers site:
http://www.kicker.com/05/05kicker.html
Last edited by ex_03; Apr 18, 2005 at 09:02 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Not really, just will handle more power. If you have a small amp. go L5.This also depends greatly on what enclosure you build for it as well. for the L5/L7 the ported enclosures are the way to go, If you the space. You can check it out at there site.but the ported enclosure is quite large. And I will admit when I called kicker techs on how big I should go with my solo he told me as big as possible, So I was like 3.25 he said yes, and thats sealed. He said not to follow the manufactor specs. And he was right becuase it sounds great in a large sealed box.
Last edited by ex_03; Apr 18, 2005 at 09:08 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 again I have to give you my opinion, I guess depends on how important this is to you. If dont want to go thru upgrading the entire cars electrical, go with a class d amp for your sub, there cheaper and way effecient when it comes to making big power. there are alot of threads covering brand names. Most companies make class d amps, so I guess its preferance. I can name a hundred of them, you have to match the subs voice coils with the amps resistance allowance. If you get the dual 2ohm you can almost get any class d amp that runs at 1ohm mono. If you get the dual 4ohm you would have to get an that runs at 2ohm mono. The difference isnt really the issue again its more or less what you want. If you decide to get the kicker sub just go with the dual 2ohm and any class d amp. L5 go no higher than 750 rms, L7 go no higher then 1500 rms.
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Rep Power: 0 just keep in mind that a cheap made amp is cheap for a reason. Do a little research. Youll see that JL makes great amps, Rockford used too I dont know about now.Kicker makes decent amps, earthqauke makes some decent class d's. MMats audio used to make some sick class d's.
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what do you mean about upgrading all of the cars electrical? well i just want what would be the best that would make the subs sound best they could im going to get everything like mids n highs and everything
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Rep Power: 0 Well thats what I mean, Are you running two amps? Are you changing all the inside speakers? If you plan on running two big amps you'll have to do something on the electrical side of the car, The stock electrical is made too handle the vehicle and maybe a sub amp. But it depends on what you get, If you get a 1200 watt rms class D amp and 400 rms 4 channel for mids and tweets your definitly going to have upgrade..Batt..Buy a cap..Best thing to do is buy what you want install it and go from there!
id say go for rockford fosgate amps, if they are still good. my RF amps are seriously 10 years old my bro bought them in early 95 and they work wonderful. he said in their day they were some of the best and people were using them for competition level
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Rep Power: 0 Look man i work @ circuit city doing nothing but installing **** in cars all day. get the l7's the hit hard as hell but u jus have to get a good amp. if u want em to hit real hard drop em in ur tirewell and get and amp for each. i promise u there will be no disapointmentsssssssss.o and the solo x hit real hard i had a pair in my civic but i sold em cuz they blew out my back window 2 times.......
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Rep Power: 0 well i was wonderin about doin that for the subs puttin them in the tire well but i asked a guy at cartoys and they said that it would cost a ton and that they werent even sure if they could do it, wouldnt an amp for each one and an amp for the door speakers be expensive?
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Originally Posted by ncirom2003
id say go for rockford fosgate amps, if they are still good. my RF amps are seriously 10 years old my bro bought them in early 95 and they work wonderful. he said in their day they were some of the best and people were using them for competition level
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Rep Power: 0 one sub amp and one fourchannel is the way for you to go. but I can tell you to do it right your going to need at least this:
1 or 2 subs
4 coaxial speakers or two sets of components 5" or 6"
amp for subs
amp for highs
at least 4 guage wire kit or 1/0 guage
cap and or battery upgrade
it can start to get costly.
I didnt just get an extra battery. I have my stock battery up front, yellow top in trunk, and 15 farad cap.
1 or 2 subs
4 coaxial speakers or two sets of components 5" or 6"
amp for subs
amp for highs
at least 4 guage wire kit or 1/0 guage
cap and or battery upgrade
it can start to get costly.
I didnt just get an extra battery. I have my stock battery up front, yellow top in trunk, and 15 farad cap.
Electric Boogaloo...
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Originally Posted by ex_03
Well thats what I mean, Are you running two amps? Are you changing all the inside speakers? If you plan on running two big amps you'll have to do something on the electrical side of the car, The stock electrical is made too handle the vehicle and maybe a sub amp. But it depends on what you get, If you get a 1200 watt rms class D amp and 400 rms 4 channel for mids and tweets your definitly going to have upgrade..Batt..Buy a cap..Best thing to do is buy what you want install it and go from there!
1. A cap will not do a damned thing except keep your lights from dimming. It's going to do nothing for your electrical system.
2. I've personally ran 1450 watts off of the stock electrical with absoloutely zero problems. (JL 500/1, JL 500/1, JL e4300 (2X150 @ 4ohms for front components) , and JL e2150(1X150 @ 4 ohms for center channel) ). I know it'll run it fine.
3. Other members here have ran up to 2 kw (maybe more) (included in that list, if I remember correctly, are Ludlam theroy, White Rabbit, and Mystic 3030 to name a few, I'm sure there are tons of others).
The best thing to do is buy the gear and see what happens when you install it (electrical wise).
Personally, I hate Kicker's L series subs. They're overpriced for the way they perform. If you want to block rock, they're probably a good choice for you, assuming you're comfortable paying that much for them. I'd go for something else, but that's my opinion, and opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has one.
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Originally Posted by PopcornPlaya
Bullshit...
1. A cap will not do a damned thing except keep your lights from dimming. It's going to do nothing for your electrical system.
2. I've personally ran 1450 watts off of the stock electrical with absoloutely zero problems. (JL 500/1, JL 500/1, JL e4300 (2X150 @ 4ohms for front components) , and JL e2150(1X150 @ 4 ohms for center channel) ). I know it'll run it fine.
3. Other members here have ran up to 2 kw (maybe more) (included in that list, if I remember correctly, are Ludlam theroy, White Rabbit, and Mystic 3030 to name a few, I'm sure there are tons of others).
The best thing to do is buy the gear and see what happens when you install it (electrical wise).
Personally, I hate Kicker's L series subs. They're overpriced for the way they perform. If you want to block rock, they're probably a good choice for you, assuming you're comfortable paying that much for them. I'd go for something else, but that's my opinion, and opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has one.
1. A cap will not do a damned thing except keep your lights from dimming. It's going to do nothing for your electrical system.
2. I've personally ran 1450 watts off of the stock electrical with absoloutely zero problems. (JL 500/1, JL 500/1, JL e4300 (2X150 @ 4ohms for front components) , and JL e2150(1X150 @ 4 ohms for center channel) ). I know it'll run it fine.
3. Other members here have ran up to 2 kw (maybe more) (included in that list, if I remember correctly, are Ludlam theroy, White Rabbit, and Mystic 3030 to name a few, I'm sure there are tons of others).
The best thing to do is buy the gear and see what happens when you install it (electrical wise).
Personally, I hate Kicker's L series subs. They're overpriced for the way they perform. If you want to block rock, they're probably a good choice for you, assuming you're comfortable paying that much for them. I'd go for something else, but that's my opinion, and opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has one.
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Rep Power: 0 And you obiviously dont even read my threads I never said a cap will add power, It will however help the electrical as far as the alternater suppling the whole car if the amp draws of the battery and the battery is not enough where else does it get power from? the alternater. So instead it gets stored power from a cap. Do your self a favor and dont listen to these guys there just pissed becuase they can't afford to do things right, If you under power your amps you'll run the risk of destroying the amps powersupply, ask any professional in the business, call rockfords tech line even JL's the'll all tell ya the same thing.
Originally Posted by ex_03
And you obiviously dont even read my threads I never said a cap will add power, It will however help the electrical as far as the alternater suppling the whole car if the amp draws of the battery and the battery is not enough where else does it get power from? the alternater. So instead it gets stored power from a cap. Do your self a favor and dont listen to these guys there just pissed becuase they can't afford to do things right, If you under power your amps you'll run the risk of destroying the amps powersupply, ask any professional in the business, call rockfords tech line even JL's the'll all tell ya the same thing.
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Rep Power: 0 well Im just saying having an opinion is one thing saying that someones advice is bullshit, the guy didnt even read the whole thing obivously, I told hatfield to buy everything install it, and if you have no problems then dont bother with a cap or yellow top. But I notice when people even mention cap all the experts chime in just to say there unwarranted. Thats just no true, there needed in some cases. Not ever car's electrical is the same. But like I also said call the munafactor's tech support they are there to help you with any and all questions about there products and believe me they know more than anyone here about there products.
