Rep Power: 290

ok i attached a pic i made in PS hahaha yeah im no expert.. but u cna hardly tell right?

ok so i made this thinger up
someone told me its not safe to have the amp on the sub box..? this is a 1d picture.. but i plan to fibreglass it so the subs are a little recessed and the amp also. the white bars planning to be some sound activated light bars for some riceness


but few questions.. will i be safe doing it like this? i want it all behind the seat for secruirty..

also how should i wire this

thanks for any help!! OH OH how much space or how big a box should i be making behind it for space.. and am i safe putting vents in that erea? should sound good with the seats up

 
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Well you CAN mount your amp to the box.. chances are, it'll be fine however, shaking the internals of an amp that much does increase the odds of messing something up but w/e.. however, i don't recommend mounting an amp to a ported box just because you're drilling holes.. designing a ported box requires very fine tuning when it comes to air space, vent length/diameter, etc. And putting four holes in the box will change the specifications of your box, therefore possibly causing damage to your subs.

You will also have to make a "face plate" for your box to run your wires for your amp because you don't want your wires going through your box.

The box is completely up to you.. When you bought your subs, they should of came with the Theile/Small parameters and you can go from there, otherwise there's the box building software available which makes it a lot easier for ported/bandpass box building. If you're going to face your subs that way, you are going to need to seal off the interior of the car from the trunk trunk completely.. or you will have phase problems. These are just some of the things that I can think of off the top of my head but I'm sure others will give you pointers too

 
Rep Power: 290

dark i love the sig hahahaha

and ya im completely new to this ****

im goign mostly for show quality. not as much for pound as im not really into REAL loud music.. i may not port it if thats goign to make life harder

also i heard uc an make teh box smaller if u fill it with packing peanuts?

 
Rep Power: 361

if you get a good amp and good subs then you wont worry about the hell your subs put your amp through (i know)

i have a jl 500/1 up against my sub box and the amp is amazingly tough and takes all the beating i throw at it. cant wait till summer to really try to get it to heat up (i have yet to get it warmer than warm to the touch after 3 hours of bass cd)

pics:
Loudest 10s ive heard off only 500watts rms.


amp on seat...up against subs when closed


why my subs are so F'n loud and hit so much harder than ever before

 
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Here is my setup so far.


I would not recommend putting the amp behind the box crambed against the back of the seats because it will prob overheat. I know my amp hits about 110 in an open trunk. Also it prob wont sound as loud with the speakers pointed foward. Mine sound twice as loud pointed back at the trunk.

 
Rep Power: 329

Mounting the amp won't do **** to the amp. It won't damage it in any way. The only thing is it might decrease the structural integrity or something, but it won't lead to a damaged amp (unless the box isn't secured and can slide all over the place).

 
Rep Power: 361

IF i was using a different amp i would strongly agree but go to a local shop and ask them to run a 500/1 for a while...they really dont get that warm. Regulated power supplies are the best amp invention ever.

 
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If you do that setup, you risk electrical fire. Not from the setup, but the BRAND!
I thought I'd be the first to knock that it's Sony.

Anyhow, that custom setup would be a little difficult for a novice to attempt. I like the box seperate from the amps. Why? Because if I need more space for my bike stuff, I just take my box out.

 
Rep Power: 329

The reason that it appears louder is because bass is omni-directional. It's dispersing the bass across the trunk lid, and bouncing it back at you.

An explaination for this would also be to liken it to a concert experience. If you've ever been to a concert, you'll notice the speakers that the vocals and higher frequency tones (guitar, whatever) come througfh are pointed at you. The subs, which plays the bass comes through, may or may not be. This is because bass is omni directional (it bounces off of stuff to amplify the sound so to speak). Now, what happens when you leave the room/go outside of the performance area? If there's a door you go out, you won't likely hear the vocals and high tones, but you'll still "feel" the bass (hear it). That's because the way that the waves travel.

Yeah I suck at explaining things, but I tried, maybe someone can explain it a little better.

 
Rep Power: 311

I don't know pop, normally I'd agree but it IS a sony . . . .

J/K

I still agree, in fact you beat me to it. Any amp worth it's weight should be cable of withstanding bass vibes just as well as road vibes - they are very similar.

 
Rep Power: 290

im a beginner yes but am trying to learn. i have had some ideas.. i like the subs look when people put the cone part outwards and the sub facing into the box is this hard to do? i am trying to set it up so the subs can easilly be seen from the inside of the car when my seats are eithe rout or down.

as for getting the sony's i jsut used them for pics. im not rich so im getting what i can afford at the moment. either 10" or 12" heh

 
Rep Power: 311

Actually you explained that pretty clear. One small elaboration for the deadening post, metal that resonates absorbs sound energy, lessening the energy you hear/feel. When you eliminate that absorption, you restore the sound energy - sound level - to the original state (louder to you)

 
Rep Power: 329

The only difference with putting the magnet outside is you don't have to account for displacement inside the box when figring your measurements. It's not going to perform any different.