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i got a box for 3 12s and it fits perfectly in my lx coupe trunk with about a foot of space in front of it. is this enough airspace for 3 12s, or do i need to get a diff box?

 
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I don't know about your question, but if you havn't lowered your car already, your car is gonna look lowered (the rear...because the rear is higher than the front) due to all that extra weight.

 
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Well How many cu.ft does this bix that you have have?.. sealed or ported.. and what subs??

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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heh, my rear looks like it's lowered, and i only got 2 10's and it lowered my rear like.. half a inch to one inch, let's just say i cna tell the difference of height between the front wheel well and the rear wheel well[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]

 
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Pretty nice voice :-) RIght now I only have 1 12" in the trunk, but I about about 50 pounds of books in the back so I guess that makes up for only having 1 sub[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/IMG]

 
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I have 1 10 in the trunk......which does great with clean power.

 
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I packed my trunk and back seat full of stuff when I went out of town for the holidays and my rearend was sagging a bit. hehe.

 
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I have 1 12" Kicker Solo-Baric L7 in a little box...... but man is that BASS LOUD!!!!!!!!!!

The question is.... Can your back window handle 3 12"s????

Cause when I turn mine up.... it shakes like a ****!!!!!!!!!
I affraid one day it will just pop off

 
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can someone please answer my question!

can the amp handle the 3 12s, its either the amp, or nothin at all, so let me know whats better

 
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i know a lot about car audio. our cars trunks can handle three 12's. i installed 3 12" punch hx2's (1000watts each) in my friends 2k1 and the speakers hit real hard. you just need the right box. i custom made his.
let me know if you have any more questions.

 
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i have a alpine 4/3/2 channel amp

MAX POWER (EIAJ)
* 90W x 4 (4 Ohm Stereo)
* 240 x 1 (Bridged 4 Ohm)
FEATURES
* RMS Continuous Power (Watt) (at 12.0V 20-20kHz): 4 Ohm Stereo (0.08% THD) 30W x 4; 2 Ohm Stereo (0.3% THD) 40W x 4; Bridged 4 Ohm (0.3% THD) 80W x 2
* S/N Ratio 100dBA
* 12dB HP/LP Crossover (50-200Hz)
* Speaker Level Input
GENERAL
* 2/1 Channel Operation
* Bass Engine Ready
* Extra Large Gold Plated Terminals with Wire Insert Capability
* Top Panel LED
* 4 Volt Input Capability
* Continuously Adjustable Crossovers
* DC Straight, STAR Topology & Duo-Beta Circuitry
* DC-DC/PWM MOSFET Power Supply


and i need to know if this can handle 3 12s or if it will soung real crapy.


what it comes down to is i have no $$$ at all to buy a new amp, abd if this amp will power 3 12s at all. id be happy with the same bass as 1 12 with a good amp. is this at all possible?

thanks

 
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There is ABSOLUTELY no way that amp will power 3 12"s and it sound good. Just stick to 1 12" and you should have enough power, and airspace. I know you liked that box but sometimes you just gotta be realistic.

 
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Yes your car and that amp can handle it. But there's only a handfull of treo's of subs out there that can get you a 4 ohm load. But gettign 3 subs and giving them the same power as you would give 1 12 would sound the same SQ wise. It will also be up to 6Decibels Louder. Get the subs. They'll bump pretty good. Save up after that for a stronger amp.

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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if you dont have too much to spend i personally dont think its a good idea to get 3 12s. 240 watts isn't a whole lot to start out with. i would just get one nice sub such as a kicker L7(about 750 RMS) for about 250 compared to 3 ok subs(about 200 RMS each) for 300. if you get the 3 ok subs, it'll be harder to upgrade caue you have to replace all 3. but with the one kicker, you could just add a sub instead of replacing. n i understand you may want to keep the box but i just dont think its worth it. i mean if your gunna bump 1200 watt RMS then ya it'd be koo but with 240... i would just stick with 2 12s(just cause i like how it looks). maybe come rf punch hx2's.. ike sound has it for 140 a piece... n i think they push 500 RMS each.

 
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VNlilMan..

The Power ratings on a subs mean absolutely Squat as to how they'll perform. the difference in sound with a 200RMS sub and a 500RMS sub isn't even a comparison. I have a pair of subs that each handle 1200WRMS.. I'm giving them 300 Each for daily use...More than loud. I Like the 2 12's Idea better. But as all things go. to he his own.

Well I'm tired.

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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<< The Power ratings on a subs mean absolutely Squat as to how they'll perform. >>



what should i look at then? or should i mainly go by the reviews people give on them? cause damn someone should have told me about the sonys before i got them. claims to push 200 RMS but coils start to burn when i feed them 80 RMS.

 
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What you should go by is the Thiele Small Parameters..

If you go by power ratings Pyramid Subs handle over 1200rms.. But they suck. (only actually handle 400 Wrms).

What you have to look at is the
FS: Resonant Frequency (suspension stiffness)
Qtc: Mechanical Response
Sensitvity: How loud the sub will be with 1 watt power at 1 meter distance

XMAX: the subs overall excursion.(cone travel)
BL: Magnetic force (Subwoofer horsepower [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG])

those are the main factors to look at. There are more. But they are of leser effect unless you plan on running your subs infinite baffle.

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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whats the main thing you should look at? would looking at the excursion be enough? or would looking at the sensitivity enough? i'm trying to look for the best way to compare subs... i was looking at cerwin HED vs xplod. the only major difference i saw was the excursion so ya would that be right to say that the sub with the biggest excursion is the loudest? these are probably stoopid questions but ey i'm learning...

 
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The simplest way is a combination of Fs, QTC, Excursion, Sensitivity, then Power handling.. Also generaly reliability..which the Explods don't have..... Don't buy based on numbes.. Listen with your ears first..and listen with your ears again. Then add in the numbers..

Cheers
Mohawk