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I hoping you all can offer some guidance...

I’m looking into getting a new system in 2004 EX civic coupe. I was originally going to get everything at tweeter and have them install it (HU, front components, rear 6x9 and an amp). Tweeter told me they would only install what I buy from them. teh problem is I can find much better prices online.

So, I’m leaning toward buying everything I need online and doing the install myself. Here's the thing though, I have no car audio experience at all. I've done some home audio/theatre set-up before, but never anything in th car. Wouuld my install be to complex for a beginner?

The other thing is, I like how Crutchfield helps you out with all the parts and instructions and whatnot, but they don't offer all the stuff I want to get or have the best pricing for that matter. So I'm worried that if I don't buy from Crutchfield I won't know all the parts/wiring that I need. Are there other companies out there that offer similar support?

Any help/direction you may have is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

 
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super easy man I was in the same position you were and had cc install it all. Ended up paying way too much and a few weeks ago I redid it 10x better than they did. I have a door panel removal diy I'll search for here to get you sparted. After that, it's just a matter of using simple tools like drill and screwdriver. Maybe you'll need spacers, but that's something you can pick up from someplace. The car comes apart like legos. I had everything stripped when I was doing dynamat. It's well worth it to get some at least for the doors and rear deck. Only hard part is the rear deck removal, which there's a diy for anyway. And we can help you if you get stuck.

 
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just a little warning, i'd be a little cautious about having an audio store install your system for you...some have been known to install their customer's system, keep the customer's address, and then go to their house and steal their ****

 
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The install is easy. There are pictured DIY's on here, as well as Crutchfield's Master sheets being on here as well (their install instructions). The hardest part you willhave is the rear speakers (if you ecided to do them). The erar deck removal is a pain in the ***, but there is a guide here, so take your time, and you'll have no problems. The headunit DIY's are on here, as well as the front speaker install DIY's, plus wiring an amp. So all the information you need is here. Any other quesxtions you might have that may arise have probably been covered and can be found with the use of the search feature, or if necessary (you can't find it or whatever) you can start a new thread. You're fortunate because you have this site as a resource. Imagine my frustration doin mine blind with no guide when I first got my car. Wow, twas a biotch. Use the resources you have and you'll be fine.

 
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what about running new wires and whatnot. Is there any chance of f'n things up? Like somehow your power windows don't work after you're done with the install?

Hey I've never done this, I just want to be sure it'll be doeable...

Oh yeah, how will I know all the parts I need?

 
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If you have time and patience, list what components you are going to install or want installed.....the more we know the more we can help

 
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Or just do a lousy job up front. Some of the mickeymouse installs I've seen make me want to burn down some of the "performance" audio shops I've encountered.

Personally, since you are doing it all at once, get the right adapters and do it right.

My feelings:
Door speakers are pretty easy with adapters/spacers
Rear speaker are a biatch because you have to remove the rear deck/rear panels, which sucks big time
Amp wiring in the civic is the easist I've ever encountered.

 
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How are you with general installs? Do you feel ok unpluging/unscrewing/lifting with the proper force to pop out, but not break?

One one hand, it takes a lot of time and there is a chance you'll break a panel or clip or two

On the other, it's cheaper, and you really get a sense of pride driving a car that you worked on. Project cars are the best!

 
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as I mentioned before I'm new to this so taht why I'm asking so many questions. I want to understand what I'm getting into before just jumping in...

 
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Here's the list of equipment I'm looking at for 2004 EX Coupe:
Clarion VRX755VD or Clarion*DXZ955MC or Alpine 9835
Clarion Ipod adaptor or Alpine ipod adaptor
JL Audio*300-4
JL Audio*TR690-TXI (rear)
JL Audio*XR650-CSi (front components)
I want to run all new speaker wire also (what size and brand should I get)

What other things am I going to need? I imagine some kind of harness and trim pieces, some sort of amp wiring kit, anything else? Will I need spacers? Special tools?

As a beginner what kind of time should expect for this install? I imagining it will be long : ) Any advice you all can offer would be great!

 
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Last february I didn't even have a car yet and already started looing into car audio. I had no experience with cars or car audio. I started browsing threads in car audio forums (www.caraudioforum.com, forum.sounddomain.com) and asking questions. It was a lot of fun learning and slowly configuring my system to be. In April I actually bought every components, got my civic a month later, and started to install. It was so much fun installing the system myself (well I had an friend help me, but he was more unexperienced than me at that point). Very rewarding experience. Read the many DIY's on this site and ask Q's when you need to. Don't pay anyone to do what can be so much fun.

 
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I've been checking out the DIYs so far I've looked at the front door panel removal and HU install. I came accross one for the rear deck of the sedan (http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...peakers++coupe) but where's the DIY for the coupe? Also it sound like people often run into problems with the 6x9s being too large. Does anyone know if those JLs will fit okay? Here are the specs.

Description: 6 x 9-inch (150 x 230 mm) 3-Way, Grilles Included
Frame O.D.*: 162.6 mm x 237 mm
Grille Tray O.D.**: 171 mm x 244 mm
Magnet O.D.: 100 mm
Frontal Coaxial Tweeter Protrusion***: 18.2 mm
Frontal Grille Protrusion****: 24.8 mm
Xmax: 3.35 mm

next I'm gonna look for one on the amp install.

Is there a DIY on component instalation? I'm wondering where that crossover is going to go and how it will be mounted.

thanks again. you guys have been a great help so far.

 
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The amp install is something like "amp wiring DIY" or something is how it is listed. For pulling new wire, I'd recommend running 12 or 14 gauge wire from the amp to the speakers (larger for the longer run to the front). When it comes to going through the door grommet, lube up the opening, and the wire with a silicone based lubricant (wd40, etc...).

Tools needed (including wire):
8 mm socket, or combo wrench (open and closed end)

Flat and Phillips screw driver

Crimping tools or soldering iron (i'd solder personally, but that's your choice)

WD-40 (OPTIONAL)

Power and ground wire (largers gause the amp accepts is what I recommend, or larger and distro down to the size. In your case, with the JL, it'll accept as large as 4 ga.)(brand doesn't matter, wire is wire)

Remote Wire(brand doesn't matter)

RCA's (Make sure these are of good quality. Some reliable brands include Knuconceptz, Monster, and some of the other higher end cables from several manufacturers, brand doesn't really matter as long as they're high quality. Price usually determines quality in this case)

Speaker wire (Personally I'd go with 12 gauge.) (Braded wires are great here, but standard 2 strand wire is fine as well. Make sure it's oxygen free, doesn't matter the brand).

Socket set (as I don't remember the size of the bolt for the seatbelt at this time)

Panel Tool (OPTIONAL, just makes life easier)

I'm sure I'm forgetting several things, but it' almost 2 am, and I'ev been up since 7. Tired a little. I'll edit if i think of other things.

 
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So what about the spacers and all that for the speakers. Will I need spacers, where is a good place to get them?

Also where is the crossover for the components going to go? Does it get mounted somewhere in the door? anyone have pics?

 
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speaker cable- for front/rear speaks you don't need anything bigger than 18 gauge. for amp to subwoofer wires that's where the 12 gauge cable would only be needed, and even that is pushing it.

spacers - I am not 100% positive here. I ordered speaker adapters for the civic and once they came I saw no possible way of mounting the speakers using them. On the site I bought it from and even crutchfield it's listed as to fit the civic, but once I got them, there was no way and I e-mailed the adapter maker, and they said it's not gonna fit a 7th gen civic.
So I deciuded to geta jigsaw and make my own, they resemble the one pictured here:


As far the crossovers go, the choice is yours, some people have them near the amps, others have them in the door panels, and some like me have them in their glove box.

 
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I mounted mine in the door with Zip Ties there's a brace in there that rund horizontal to the ground, and a square piece is attached to it. That square piece forms a sort of shelf. I put mine there and ziptied it in.

For spacers, you can buy plastic ones, or make your own from MDF (which is what I'd do). Cut a ring out of whatever thickness MDF you'll need (1/4, 1/2, 3/4 etc inch mdf) run a bead of silicone o the back, adn screw it to the door. Works as good if not better than the plastic ones, and is cheaper.

 
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If you do that, wait for the silicone to set a few days before installing the speaker. I've always been afraid to put wood in there because water is always gettin all over the speaker.

 
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If you DIY - the two things you will need the most are patience and time. A GOOD set of tools will also serve you well. With the front/rear speaker issue - the front paneling is easier to remove, however you're not left with much to work with once you strip out the stock equipment - just a cut out hole. LIKELY you will need spacers to address magnet depth and basket diameter of your replacement speakers. Fishing wiring through the stock grommet in the doors can be a challenge as well.

The issue with rear speakers is of magnet depth (can prevent your trunk from closing) and speaker height - the top portion must be shorter than the deck paneling to be properly reinstalled. The acual install of the 6 x 9 is fairly simple once you get the paneling apart.

Even with prior experience, DIY's took me almost a full day and a half to get everything in.

 
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Gearbox - I have MDF spacers and haven't had a problem with water getting in....how is it getting into your doors?

 
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That's what I was wondering. I'ce had MDF spacers for going on 4 years now. The same ones have been through 5 sets of components,still no water on them. Do you drive with your windows down, or the doors open in the rain? That's the only way I can see water getting in, that or you need to go to honda and get them to check for holes in your doors. I've installed components in many,many vehicles, always using MDF spacers, never a problem with them getting wet, soggy, etc.

 
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Does anyone have pics of those crossovers mounted in the doors?

 
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I don't - but you have to follow the contour of the door molding - they can't just fit "anywhere" inside the door frame.

 
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hmm, I guess I'll just have to figure out something if/when I open the up.

Hey, if I running new speaker wire to these new speakers how does it connect into the HU? IS it part of the harness or is it more a connection like on a audio/video receiver that you might have hooked up to your tv/stereo at home?

Also do you soder the speaker wire on to the speaker connections? Is that the only sodering that will have to be done?

 
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Gearbox, if you took your white plastic water guards off and didnt cover up the holes in the metal, water will get in that way.

I also have MDF spacers and no problems with water....

 
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The new speaker wire will come from the amp to the speakers. The only thing coming off the headunit will be RCA cables to the amp. Do not solder on the speakers, the only place you would need to do that is in the headunit harness, but crimping works just fine if you use vibration proof buttconnectors and a good crimping tool.

 
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Yes, crimping works fine. I preefr solder myself because I have a solder gun, adn I trust it more than crimp connectors, just a matter of personal preference. If you choose the butt connectors, I might recommend the ones with the heat shrink tubing on them, so once you crimp, you can warm it with something (lighter works fine, I use my heat gun) and shrink it around the wire. As far as if you solder onto the speaker terminals, no, buy solder on male and female spade connectors (if you're soldering). If you're not soldering, you want crimp on spade connectors (female). The positive terminal is the larger size spade connector, and the negative side is the smaller size spade connector.

 
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Where can I buy the crimp on connectors with the heat shrink tubing on them and a good crimper? Do you have a URL?

Is there alot of soldering to do on the HU harness? I thought that you could but a new harness and everything was basically set. I'm sure I could have been mistaken, I'm just a newbie...

Thanks again you guys have all been great. I'm pretty sure I'm going to do the install my self now. While I've got everything apart I'll probably apply some brown bread to the doors (on the metal panel and the back of the plastic panel) as well as the rear deck.

 
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If you are going to buy a soldering tool, I suggest the new cold Heat™ its awesome!

 
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There are a good many of wires behind the HU to slder or crimp (about 12, maybe more, I didn't really count). As for teh heat shrink butt conncetors, You can get them at pretty much anywhere that sells audio. Heck, some parts stores (autozone, advance, pepboys, etc) will carry them (if you're lucky).

 
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Also, dont worry about the wiring of the harness for the radio...if you buy the right harness it will be color coded to the one that came with your radio.