alpine type-R 15" yes? no?
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alpine type-R 15" yes? no?
im in the market for a clean 15" sub that can hit the low notes hard and smooth. i been checking out the alpine type-r 15" sub http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uXg4bZp...0&I=500SWR1521 which i plan to purchase off eBay and wanted to here everyone elses words on this sub? i heard the 12" older model and it sounds real clean and smooth, but doesnt hit hard enough so im uping for the 15". still not sure to go with 2-ohm or 4-ohm... which would be ideal for harder hits?
im willing to invest $200 at most for a single 15" subwoofer, any suggestions?
my listening habits are usually in the 80% of volme level, so its gotta take a beating
im willing to invest $200 at most for a single 15" subwoofer, any suggestions?
my listening habits are usually in the 80% of volme level, so its gotta take a beating
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havent decided with amp yet. but if it effect sound, quality, or bumpness, then my best bet is to go with 2ohm since 2channel amps/mono amps are easier to get watts out of than multi/4-ch amps?
pretty much saving little dough costwise
pretty much saving little dough costwise
For a monoblock thats 2 ohms, you want the DVC 4 ohm version wired in parallel.
- 1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Parallel
- Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
For a 2 channel amp bridged, it has to be 4 ohms when bridged, so you want the 2 ohm version wired in series.
- 1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series
- Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms

All this is taken directly from the JL tutorial website.
Think of parallel wiring as an OR option. Power can go through one coil or the other coil so the overall ohms is reduced. Think of series as an AND option. Power must go through both, one coil then the other coil, so the overall ohm is increased.
- 1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Parallel
- Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
For a 2 channel amp bridged, it has to be 4 ohms when bridged, so you want the 2 ohm version wired in series.
- 1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series
- Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms

All this is taken directly from the JL tutorial website.
Think of parallel wiring as an OR option. Power can go through one coil or the other coil so the overall ohms is reduced. Think of series as an AND option. Power must go through both, one coil then the other coil, so the overall ohm is increased.
Last edited by Regularjoe; Feb 18, 2005 at 11:45 PM.
IMO I'd get a monoblock class D amp thats looking for 2 ohms ..... then get the DVC 4 ohm version and wire it in parallel.
Good amps to look at to give you an idea would be .....
- Alpine M501
- Alpine M605
- Kicker 400.1
- Kicker 600.1
- JBL 600.1
- MTX 421d
- Polk Momo C500.1
- Rockford P6001
- JL 500/1
- Phoenix Gold 8.0:1
Good amps to look at to give you an idea would be .....
- Alpine M501
- Alpine M605
- Kicker 400.1
- Kicker 600.1
- JBL 600.1
- MTX 421d
- Polk Momo C500.1
- Rockford P6001
- JL 500/1
- Phoenix Gold 8.0:1
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im more interested in the alpine m501 since i want an alpine sub/amp combo. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=13853
even though that amp is 550rms x 1 @ 2ohms, and the sub im wanting can only handle 500rms @ 2ohms, will i be safe running that amp with my sub?
OT: can anyone tell me in a brief summary what the cea 2005 complaint is?
even though that amp is 550rms x 1 @ 2ohms, and the sub im wanting can only handle 500rms @ 2ohms, will i be safe running that amp with my sub?
OT: can anyone tell me in a brief summary what the cea 2005 complaint is?
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if you want my .02 i don't think u ned a 15" to get the effect that you are looking for. you can save some trunk space and perhaps some money by going with a single 10 or 12 and creating a well designed ported box. I have 10's in my car with gobs and gobs of power and a low tuned port and it plays down to subsonic levels really well, and gets absurdly loud at higher frequencies. of course my box is fairly box (3.0 cubes) but it gets the job done with small woofers
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