Should I buy these subs.
Should I buy these subs.
I went to best buy to look for some subs for my 2001 honda civic lx coupe and I was wondering what you guys think of these subs?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
They sound awesome I just didnt know how good these speakers are.
109/ each at best buy but its 140 for 2 of them on ebay. Plus 38 dollars for shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
They sound awesome I just didnt know how good these speakers are.
109/ each at best buy but its 140 for 2 of them on ebay. Plus 38 dollars for shipping.
Thanks for the responses.
Anyone else familiar with these subs? What is the difference between the p1, p2, and p3 subs?
Also, I have an alpine 9833 and when I listen to it at a certain volume, about 23, it cuts off. I read a while ago about connecting it directly to the battery. How would I go about doing that? -If that is how to solve the problem. I installed it myself.
I wasnt sure whether to start a new post or just post my new question in here. Afterall it is all related to my "system."
Anyone else familiar with these subs? What is the difference between the p1, p2, and p3 subs?
Also, I have an alpine 9833 and when I listen to it at a certain volume, about 23, it cuts off. I read a while ago about connecting it directly to the battery. How would I go about doing that? -If that is how to solve the problem. I installed it myself.
I wasnt sure whether to start a new post or just post my new question in here. Afterall it is all related to my "system."
Last edited by Adamb123; Jan 6, 2005 at 09:53 AM.
Abercrombie and Fitch
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the p1 and p2s are SVC, the stage 3 is dvc in either 2 or 4 ohms... the p3 has a higher power handling obviously but thats basically the differences... as for sound quality im pretty sure they will sound good, just get a good amp that matches the rms, i had a p2 myself but in a 15, it sounded ok..
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it's pretty much up to you, there are so many brands u'd just have to listen to peoples stereos (in the car) to get the best idea if you like a certian brand or not, I personally think RF and Alpine are great for subs. Pioneer is one of the cheapest brands, makes great HUs and also if done right their subs can sound "ok," if you're trying to go really cheap.. lots of people like Kicker, Image Dynamics, I've heard Infinitys before, they're GOOD. tons of others I didn't even mention.
Ok. I really appreciate your feedback.
I was talking to someone at work and he says that JL W6 subs are very good subs. Combined with a good amp he says that they sound great. Would you agree...out of personal experience?
I was talking to someone at work and he says that JL W6 subs are very good subs. Combined with a good amp he says that they sound great. Would you agree...out of personal experience?
Slowest 7thgen in the GTA
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Originally Posted by BlueTroll
800 watts my ***
Doesn't matter about the 800 watts though. Always go by RMS and not peak.
my mom has 2 of them in her civic with the P2002 amp...but she also has the mids by rockford....it sounds really nice to...my dad has 2 of them in hs truck with the p5002 amp...of course his sounds better though..
Originally Posted by Adamb123
Also, I have an alpine 9833 and when I listen to it at a certain volume, about 23, it cuts off. I read a while ago about connecting it directly to the battery. How would I go about doing that? -If that is how to solve the problem. I installed it myself.
I wasnt sure whether to start a new post or just post my new question in here. Afterall it is all related to my "system."
I wasnt sure whether to start a new post or just post my new question in here. Afterall it is all related to my "system."
all you have to do is run a 10 gauge wire from your hu directly to the battery. I also have the 9833, and had the same problem a few months ago. Never got around running the wire though. It stopped turning off. A few days ago I turned it up to 35 (max), even though I don't think its such a good idea. The poor amp started distorting like crazy. The only s*itty part is that you have to drill thru the firewall to get to the battery.
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ive heard good things about those subs.. but i dont like that they have "punch" written on them..
as for the wire to the battery.. you could drill a new hole.. or you could go through the hole that the throttle/break cables go through.. might also want to throw a fuse on that line..
as for the wire to the battery.. you could drill a new hole.. or you could go through the hole that the throttle/break cables go through.. might also want to throw a fuse on that line..
Subarus FTW I do NOT miss my civic
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I didnt have to drill through my firewall, and I wouldnt recommend doing that. Especially if you are unsure of how to hook up a system. When he said throw a fuse onthat line. What it means is, within 1FOOT!! of the battery, on the power wire to the amp, you want to put a fuse holder. You will want a fuse with the right power for your system. (I sounded like a noob, forgot the word im trying to remember). The fuse holder should come with a fuse, just get one that says for the watts of your car stereo. They should say something about it?
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