Fuse Burning up
Two things to check.
1. Is the amp overloaded or are you using an undersized fuse?
2. What type of fuse holder are you using? The reason I ask is that I had an inline fuse holder (for a tube type 60 Amp fuse) that only had contact with the fuse on the ends, which would cause the fuse to get really hot and blow. Finally I had the fuse get so hot that it melted the fuse holder together. The car audio shop that I bought it from replaced the unit with a different style of holder. Problem was solved and I never blew another fuse.
I hope this helps? If it doesn't, post more information on the system (how many subs, guage of wire run, type of amp and how the sub is wired)
Good luck
1. Is the amp overloaded or are you using an undersized fuse?
2. What type of fuse holder are you using? The reason I ask is that I had an inline fuse holder (for a tube type 60 Amp fuse) that only had contact with the fuse on the ends, which would cause the fuse to get really hot and blow. Finally I had the fuse get so hot that it melted the fuse holder together. The car audio shop that I bought it from replaced the unit with a different style of holder. Problem was solved and I never blew another fuse.
I hope this helps? If it doesn't, post more information on the system (how many subs, guage of wire run, type of amp and how the sub is wired)
Good luck
7thGen's Loudest Civic...4,000 watts and climbing...
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does it blow as soon as you connect the fuse holder/powercable/whatever, or does it just blow after it plays for a little while?...
if it blows right away, check your ground...if it blows while music is playing, you probably just need a fuse with a high ampere ("amp") rating...
and just in case you're new to this kinda thing, or for anyone that has similar issues and you're reading this hoping for an answer, here's how to determine proper fuse size: add up the amp ratings on every fuse in your system, and make sure your inline fuse (the one near the battery) is at least that rating...example: if your sub amp has 2 60-amp fuses and your component amp has a 30-amp fuse, you need at least a 150-amp fuse under the hood...
fuse rating also determines what kind of fuse you need (AGU, ANL, etc), so check a site such as crutchfield.com or sounddomain.com for more info, or just hit up your local shop...even circuit city and best buy carry different types, so you can just pick one up there...
hope this helps...good luck...
if it blows right away, check your ground...if it blows while music is playing, you probably just need a fuse with a high ampere ("amp") rating...
and just in case you're new to this kinda thing, or for anyone that has similar issues and you're reading this hoping for an answer, here's how to determine proper fuse size: add up the amp ratings on every fuse in your system, and make sure your inline fuse (the one near the battery) is at least that rating...example: if your sub amp has 2 60-amp fuses and your component amp has a 30-amp fuse, you need at least a 150-amp fuse under the hood...
fuse rating also determines what kind of fuse you need (AGU, ANL, etc), so check a site such as crutchfield.com or sounddomain.com for more info, or just hit up your local shop...even circuit city and best buy carry different types, so you can just pick one up there...
hope this helps...good luck...
Usually when you install an amp you have two fuses. One next to the battery and one in the amp itself. Generally though the power wire fuse is a little bigger than the one in the amp itself ...
If the amp is having issues generally the fuse in the amp blows. This protects the amp internals from cooking itself completely beyond repair. In this case check everything from the amp to the subs. As a side note this will generally happen when the car/radio is on, but not w/ the car off (but you never know, stranger things have happened).
If the fuse next to the battery blows then it means you have a short in the power wire itself between the fuse holder and the amp. This protects the car from going up in flames if the power wire shorts out. Look for places where the wire bends or is next to something that moves (door, folding seats, etc.). This will happen if the car/radio is on or not, basically immediately when you put the new fuse in.
If the amp is having issues generally the fuse in the amp blows. This protects the amp internals from cooking itself completely beyond repair. In this case check everything from the amp to the subs. As a side note this will generally happen when the car/radio is on, but not w/ the car off (but you never know, stranger things have happened).
If the fuse next to the battery blows then it means you have a short in the power wire itself between the fuse holder and the amp. This protects the car from going up in flames if the power wire shorts out. Look for places where the wire bends or is next to something that moves (door, folding seats, etc.). This will happen if the car/radio is on or not, basically immediately when you put the new fuse in.
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This is kinda off topic, but I just had to post this. I was at a car audio shop once and this guys comes in, walks up to the counter and says something like.... "I keep blowing this fuse, can you please give me the biggest one you have in this style."
After a few minutes, he gets his "system" working again and drives off happy as one can be....with enough distortion to **** off a deaf guy.
After a few minutes, he gets his "system" working again and drives off happy as one can be....with enough distortion to **** off a deaf guy.
I always just use ohms law when figuring out fuse sizes..
Amps=Power/Voltage
Say you have a 250x2 amp
500 Watts
500 Watts/14.4 volts = 34.7 Amps
If you're using a 2ohm load, then 250 x 2 x 2 = 1000 watts.
1000/14.4 = 69.4 amps.. and so on and so forth
Just my .02 cents
Amps=Power/Voltage
Say you have a 250x2 amp
500 Watts
500 Watts/14.4 volts = 34.7 Amps
If you're using a 2ohm load, then 250 x 2 x 2 = 1000 watts.
1000/14.4 = 69.4 amps.. and so on and so forth
Just my .02 cents
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