no more tapping --> battery time!
no more tapping --> battery time!
okie dokie noobie time...
alright after setting off my SRS light in my car after tapping a constant 12volt in the steering wheel shroud (yeah not a good idea), HOnda decided to let me go with my warantee intact but i dont wanna risk doin it again. soooooo ive decided to draw power directly from my battery for my neons.
lets see if i got this right:
take some hookup wire (using 18gauge hookup wire), loosen negative battery hookup terminal, stick stripped end of wire in, tighten, run a fuse inline (5 amp) close to battery terminal, thread wire into car through firewall, split power to two neons, ground both. done?
right???
any precautions? is the wire thickness good? enough fuse ampage? safe? thanks!!!!
oh yeah since im hookin it up to the battery itself, will the neons turn on when the car's accessories are on?
THANKS!!!
alright after setting off my SRS light in my car after tapping a constant 12volt in the steering wheel shroud (yeah not a good idea), HOnda decided to let me go with my warantee intact but i dont wanna risk doin it again. soooooo ive decided to draw power directly from my battery for my neons.
lets see if i got this right:
take some hookup wire (using 18gauge hookup wire), loosen negative battery hookup terminal, stick stripped end of wire in, tighten, run a fuse inline (5 amp) close to battery terminal, thread wire into car through firewall, split power to two neons, ground both. done?
right???
any precautions? is the wire thickness good? enough fuse ampage? safe? thanks!!!!
oh yeah since im hookin it up to the battery itself, will the neons turn on when the car's accessories are on?
THANKS!!!
if you hook it up to your battery, it will be on when your battery is on which is probably 24/7. If you do that, you would probably want a simple on off switch. If you want it to turn on when your car turns on, then i would hook it up to the cig lighter.
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Please don't wire anything. It's obvious you're a noob at electrical, which can be very dangerous. The next time you mess up, your car could be on fire or you in the hospital.
Now if you still must do it, here is the right way.
Disconnect and tape negative battery terminal so you don't cause a disaster.
Run a wire attached to the positive terminal clamp through the firewall and attach to a switch inside. Run another wire from the switch to the neon power. You should be able to connect both neons in series, and ground them separately to the chassis. Btw, the switch will have two prongs on it. Fuse the power wire near the battery.
Reconnect negative terminal to battery when you're all done.
Now if you still must do it, here is the right way.
Disconnect and tape negative battery terminal so you don't cause a disaster.
Run a wire attached to the positive terminal clamp through the firewall and attach to a switch inside. Run another wire from the switch to the neon power. You should be able to connect both neons in series, and ground them separately to the chassis. Btw, the switch will have two prongs on it. Fuse the power wire near the battery.
Reconnect negative terminal to battery when you're all done. Joined: Mar 2004
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If you want my .02, I would say use a Relay for this project so that you don't have 10 awg going directly to the switch. If you don't know how to do it, it's easy to learn and you have your choice of wiring options. No offense though, you do sound inexperienced and make sure you know what you are getting yourself into before you start in because I am sure you don't want to be sorry later
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and allow me to recommend a larger fuse. i dunno your lighting but i'd bet it draws more than 5 amps. and good luck with a fuse purchase that small. get the holder for $3 and pop in a 15A fuse. you could use 12 gauge wire if you want, it would be cheaper. hell even 14 gauge for less than 20 feet IMO.
after reading that bit about wiring this up to the negative terminal PLEASE be very careful. if you go back to honda w/ problems again, it's like getting a second DUI/DWI, i doubt you'll receive much forgiveness for being dumb
after reading that bit about wiring this up to the negative terminal PLEASE be very careful. if you go back to honda w/ problems again, it's like getting a second DUI/DWI, i doubt you'll receive much forgiveness for being dumb
ive used the 5amp fuse with my two neon tubes before, hasnt given me any problems. so wouldnt that be safe for the direct tap into the battery? yeah im kinda dumb, now i dont really want to do this
just wanna learn if ya guys dont mind...
just wanna learn if ya guys dont mind... Joined: Mar 2004
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even 5 amps is pretty big for a couple of neon tubes. If you have a few bucks, get like 5 fuses in incremental sizes starting at like 0.5 or 1 amp and if one blows put the next bigger one in until it stops blowing. Will cost you a few dollars in fuses but what's the big deal there?
Originally Posted by MegaHurtz
even 5 amps is pretty big for a couple of neon tubes. If you have a few bucks, get like 5 fuses in incremental sizes starting at like 0.5 or 1 amp and if one blows put the next bigger one in until it stops blowing. Will cost you a few dollars in fuses but what's the big deal there?
also, i guess he could use an ammeter to measure current..hehe
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true but i don't see a guy with leet electronics skills liek him having an ammeter on hand 
and I've never seen current draw specs on a package for any neon... not that I've done a lot of looking but when I have I haven't seen the specs.
turboslug, do you ever come out to any of the Vancouver area car audio shows or car shows in general? you seem to know your business, try coming out and competing sometime

and I've never seen current draw specs on a package for any neon... not that I've done a lot of looking but when I have I haven't seen the specs.
turboslug, do you ever come out to any of the Vancouver area car audio shows or car shows in general? you seem to know your business, try coming out and competing sometime
Originally Posted by MegaHurtz
true but i don't see a guy with leet electronics skills liek him having an ammeter on hand 
and I've never seen current draw specs on a package for any neon... not that I've done a lot of looking but when I have I haven't seen the specs.
turboslug, do you ever come out to any of the Vancouver area car audio shows or car shows in general? you seem to know your business, try coming out and competing sometime


and I've never seen current draw specs on a package for any neon... not that I've done a lot of looking but when I have I haven't seen the specs.
turboslug, do you ever come out to any of the Vancouver area car audio shows or car shows in general? you seem to know your business, try coming out and competing sometime

btw, if he's gonna do the fuse guess/test method, he might want to start with a larger fuse and work his way down til he blows one. hehe....he'll only blow one fuse instead of 5..
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that's no fun! am I the only one who enjoys popping fuses? 
you should have been at Cartunes yesterday, you missed Team Shadow (very close friends) hit a 166.5 making them officially the second loudest overall in Canada, and unofficially the 3rd loudest in the world in dB Drag Extreme 3-4.

you should have been at Cartunes yesterday, you missed Team Shadow (very close friends) hit a 166.5 making them officially the second loudest overall in Canada, and unofficially the 3rd loudest in the world in dB Drag Extreme 3-4.
Street Glow 10" Neon Tubes use a 2.5 amp fuse...just gotta take apart the cig lighter plug that comes with it and take the fuse out, get an inline fuse holder and wire away. 
I would highly suggest the relay method.

I would highly suggest the relay method.
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