delete!
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
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From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 
The click in the relay - that's normal when the 85-86 connection is completed (activated). However, the fact that your accessories are on all the time now suggests that you somehow managed to connect your accessory power and constant power together - does your stereo run even after the key is out? I believe that green plug is indeed the alarm plug.
I've had this happen to me too, and I couldn't isolate the problem, so I pulled all my wiring for the problem accessory (I think it was neons I forget) and started over.
I've had this happen to me too, and I couldn't isolate the problem, so I pulled all my wiring for the problem accessory (I think it was neons I forget) and started over.
i boogie for the raindrops
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,497
Likes: 1
From: Jackson, Mississippi
Rep Power: 0 rip everything off the alarm and radio wiring. the cause ive seen most often for failures is people being lazy and integrating a single power source to a million places
1 - ok.first of all, i reccomend you run a new, entirely isolated power line for the neons from the battery.
that line goes to both 86 and 30
2 - if you want entirely direct access to - door trigger, pull out your b pillar on the drivers side, and youll see the *** end of the actual door open switch. to my knowledge, that one is wired to all 4, but a test light or a multimeter can ensure that it indeed is.
3 - as to your switching, a cool addon you could have is get a dpdt center off switch as opposed to an spst switch, where center could be neons off at all times, one pole has them on only with the open door, the other pole sends the ground signal through for immediate on.
4 - ill say it again, dont be lazy, i fried all my stock radio wiring in the whole car for being lazy so i had to tap into ignition wires, run new wires from the battery, and fix all sorts of crap just to get it working again
1 - ok.first of all, i reccomend you run a new, entirely isolated power line for the neons from the battery.
that line goes to both 86 and 30
2 - if you want entirely direct access to - door trigger, pull out your b pillar on the drivers side, and youll see the *** end of the actual door open switch. to my knowledge, that one is wired to all 4, but a test light or a multimeter can ensure that it indeed is.
3 - as to your switching, a cool addon you could have is get a dpdt center off switch as opposed to an spst switch, where center could be neons off at all times, one pole has them on only with the open door, the other pole sends the ground signal through for immediate on.
4 - ill say it again, dont be lazy, i fried all my stock radio wiring in the whole car for being lazy so i had to tap into ignition wires, run new wires from the battery, and fix all sorts of crap just to get it working again
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 
Originally Posted by LudlamTheory
rip everything off the alarm and radio wiring. the cause ive seen most often for failures is people being lazy and integrating a single power source to a million places
1 - ok.first of all, i reccomend you run a new, entirely isolated power line for the neons from the battery.
that line goes to both 86 and 30
2 - if you want entirely direct access to - door trigger, pull out your b pillar on the drivers side, and youll see the *** end of the actual door open switch. to my knowledge, that one is wired to all 4, but a test light or a multimeter can ensure that it indeed is.
3 - as to your switching, a cool addon you could have is get a dpdt center off switch as opposed to an spst switch, where center could be neons off at all times, one pole has them on only with the open door, the other pole sends the ground signal through for immediate on.
4 - ill say it again, dont be lazy, i fried all my stock radio wiring in the whole car for being lazy so i had to tap into ignition wires, run new wires from the battery, and fix all sorts of crap just to get it working again
1 - ok.first of all, i reccomend you run a new, entirely isolated power line for the neons from the battery.
that line goes to both 86 and 30
2 - if you want entirely direct access to - door trigger, pull out your b pillar on the drivers side, and youll see the *** end of the actual door open switch. to my knowledge, that one is wired to all 4, but a test light or a multimeter can ensure that it indeed is.
3 - as to your switching, a cool addon you could have is get a dpdt center off switch as opposed to an spst switch, where center could be neons off at all times, one pole has them on only with the open door, the other pole sends the ground signal through for immediate on.
4 - ill say it again, dont be lazy, i fried all my stock radio wiring in the whole car for being lazy so i had to tap into ignition wires, run new wires from the battery, and fix all sorts of crap just to get it working again
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 579
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Rep Power: 0 HOLY CRAP LudlamTheory good idea. damn i few stupid now. i shoulda double checked which ones to tap. anyways, few questions (sorry bout this). thanks for the help too telly.
does this screw anything up? that wire i tapped that caused this is now untapped and electrical taped back together and now it doesnt happen anymore, but it didnt blow any fuses or anything did it?
theres no more connection to tab 85 anymore, and my neons dont come on even tho its hooked up to the cig adapter power and the car is on(do i NEED 85 to be connected for this to happen)?
how do you recommend i do this in the safest and easisest possible way? i am a beginner at wiring and electrical (as you can tell 
) so as much help as possible is appreciated. should i run 18gauge wire directly from the positive of the battery or do i need a special connector for that? as for fuses, where and how the heck do you get them on the line? do you need a fuse holder or just solder a fuse in the middle of the line? one fuse or two? anythign i should be worried/cautioned about?
bpillar is the one with the seatbelt hinge right next to your shoulder?
oh this is for a coupe by the way. prolly makes no difference.
did i reverse the switch cause wen i pushed it, nothing happened cept for a sparkle/crackle sound.
THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
However, the fact that your accessories are on all the time now suggests that you somehow managed to connect your accessory power and constant power together - does your stereo run even after the key is out?
theres no more connection to tab 85 anymore, and my neons dont come on even tho its hooked up to the cig adapter power and the car is on(do i NEED 85 to be connected for this to happen)?
1 - ok.first of all, i reccomend you run a new, entirely isolated power line for the neons from the battery.
that line goes to both 86 and 30
that line goes to both 86 and 30
) so as much help as possible is appreciated. should i run 18gauge wire directly from the positive of the battery or do i need a special connector for that? as for fuses, where and how the heck do you get them on the line? do you need a fuse holder or just solder a fuse in the middle of the line? one fuse or two? anythign i should be worried/cautioned about?bpillar is the one with the seatbelt hinge right next to your shoulder?
oh this is for a coupe by the way. prolly makes no difference.
did i reverse the switch cause wen i pushed it, nothing happened cept for a sparkle/crackle sound.
THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Registered!!
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,111
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
Rep Power: 329 you could loosen the connector on the battery terminal a little, slide the wire end in, and tighten. that would do the job, as long as you don't run a ton of wires that way. you get a fuse holder for fuses. go to your local auto store and you can find them for < $5.00. get a fuse rated 20A too.
sparkle and cracks are generally bad. avoid them when possible
sparkle and cracks are generally bad. avoid them when possible
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 51,077
Likes: 4
From: B.C., Canada
Rep Power: 786 If one was to want a source of switched power, say an 8 gauge wire running to a distro block, how could one do this without tapping off any of the factory wiring?
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