Sub Question Carputer/amp setup
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Sub Question Carputer/amp setup
I know a lot of people ask questions just like this, but I'm still not fully sure on everything.
So I'm installing an epia motherboard in my trunk in a custom floor i'm building, so while I'm at it, I figured I would install an amp and subs while I'm at it. Haven't done anything to my audio system yet except put in a new Alpine cda 9831 HU.
I've been searching and reading up and i think I want to get 2 12" typer R subs and thinking of a JBL Powervalve BP 600.1 amp to power them. The subs are DVC and 300 watt. I would think this setup would be powerful enough to power them to their potential. So my question is, should i get the subs in the 2 ohm or 4 ohm version and what would be the best way to wire them then.
I'm also open to any suggestions on any changes if these subs or amp suck or anything.
Amp: http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLBP6001
Sub: http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/...=150&p_main=10
Thanks for your help.
So I'm installing an epia motherboard in my trunk in a custom floor i'm building, so while I'm at it, I figured I would install an amp and subs while I'm at it. Haven't done anything to my audio system yet except put in a new Alpine cda 9831 HU.
I've been searching and reading up and i think I want to get 2 12" typer R subs and thinking of a JBL Powervalve BP 600.1 amp to power them. The subs are DVC and 300 watt. I would think this setup would be powerful enough to power them to their potential. So my question is, should i get the subs in the 2 ohm or 4 ohm version and what would be the best way to wire them then.
I'm also open to any suggestions on any changes if these subs or amp suck or anything.
Amp: http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLBP6001
Sub: http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/...=150&p_main=10
Thanks for your help.
Last edited by hankscorpio; Jun 30, 2004 at 01:21 AM.
Well, the amp puts out 600x1 at 2 ohms, so in the end, you want to have a 2 ohm load, so let's see the subs:
they are availabel in dual 2 ohm and dual 4 ohm. You'll want to get the dual 2 ohm. put each sub in series for 4 ohms, then put the two subs in parallel for 2 ohms.
they are availabel in dual 2 ohm and dual 4 ohm. You'll want to get the dual 2 ohm. put each sub in series for 4 ohms, then put the two subs in parallel for 2 ohms.
OH, and also, I'm curious on how you were going to control the Epia. I have one just being used as a computer, and I thought about putting it in the car, but I don't know how to control it. A mouse setup seems to disctracting to be used whil driving. do you Have something along the lines of a touch screen?
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Thanks for the help.
To control it, i'm getting a lilliput touchscreen off of ebay. They're always on ebay, heres a link to a 7" one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...103830789&rd=1
I think i'm gonna go with an 8" though, they're only like $20 more on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=38650
I plan on molding it into my dash where the double DIN slot is and moving the head unit lower below the foglight switch and 12v socket. Then also getting a mini RF keyboard.
To control it, i'm getting a lilliput touchscreen off of ebay. They're always on ebay, heres a link to a 7" one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...103830789&rd=1
I think i'm gonna go with an 8" though, they're only like $20 more on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=38650
I plan on molding it into my dash where the double DIN slot is and moving the head unit lower below the foglight switch and 12v socket. Then also getting a mini RF keyboard.
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Another question on the wiring, Since i want 2 ohm load at then end. Couldn't I also wire the dual 2ohm subs in parallel to get 1ohm load on each and then connect the subs in series? I know this would give two ohms, but is there any reason not to do this? The reason i ask is that the two subs are going to be in custom enclosures on opposite sides of the trunk. So it would require less wires to connect the subs in series to each, and that would make it less messy.
yep yep, completely agree, it should sound exactly the same, good thinking 
about the lilliput, what do you plan to run on the computer, let me know how it goes, I'm really interested in getting something like that, but worry baout how difficult it would be to control it with your fingers.

about the lilliput, what do you plan to run on the computer, let me know how it goes, I'm really interested in getting something like that, but worry baout how difficult it would be to control it with your fingers.
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Well right now I plan on using it for mp3s, gps and war driving mainly. Don't exactly know what software i want to go with yet. I'll have to see how much of the software i want to write myself. Right now, i know i'm going to be writing a program to synchronize all my mp3s between my car/laptop/desktop inside my house through wireless when its in the driveway. I'll let you know how it goes, and i'll be taking pictures of the install along the way and post them up here when its done, It'll Probably end up taking a few weeks from now cause i'm still in the process of ordering everything.
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If that amp is 1 ohm stable, get dual 4 ohm subs so that you can wire the whole thing down to 1 ohm.
If the amp is only 2 ohm stable, get dual 2 ohm, you can wire each sub in series and then connect them together in parallel to get 2 ohms
If the amp is only 2 ohm stable, get dual 2 ohm, you can wire each sub in series and then connect them together in parallel to get 2 ohms
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I say wire each subs to 4 ohms and hten back to 2 ohms, instead of from 1 ohm to 2, I think you would get better sound because your resistance wouldn't be so low
BTW, what is the point of war driving? Do you actually think you will find open wireless networks all over the place?
Just wondering... enlighten me please, I'm interested in the whole concept
BTW, what is the point of war driving? Do you actually think you will find open wireless networks all over the place?
Just wondering... enlighten me please, I'm interested in the whole concept
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Thanks for the tips on the wiring, i think i'll do it that second way then, makes sense.
And I don't think i'll find open wireless networks all over the place, I know i will. I've done it a little bit before with my laptop, and on my block alone i've gotten 18 of them. I find it more fun just for the concept of mapping them and when there is a World Wide War Drive, which is basically a week event when people try to map as many points as possible.
And I don't think i'll find open wireless networks all over the place, I know i will. I've done it a little bit before with my laptop, and on my block alone i've gotten 18 of them. I find it more fun just for the concept of mapping them and when there is a World Wide War Drive, which is basically a week event when people try to map as many points as possible.
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Originally Posted by MegaHurtz
I say wire each subs to 4 ohms and hten back to 2 ohms, instead of from 1 ohm to 2, I think you would get better sound because your resistance wouldn't be so low
BTW, what is the point of war driving? Do you actually think you will find open wireless networks all over the place?
Just wondering... enlighten me please, I'm interested in the whole concept
BTW, what is the point of war driving? Do you actually think you will find open wireless networks all over the place?
Just wondering... enlighten me please, I'm interested in the whole concept
in the end, the amp only sees the final load, ever.
as far as teh amp is concerned, it doesnt matter if its 186 woofers with ridiculously low impedance like .00000007 ohms wired in series to 2 ohms or 1 dual 4 ohm woofer wired to 2, the amp will act the exact same way, no ifs, ands, or buts
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