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I read in a thread that you guys can work well under a budget. Hook a brotha up!

I want to work within $1000-1500. I don't see a need to change my headunit, unless someone else does. So I'd rather work off of that.

The headunit is a Pioneer Premier DEH-750MP.

I already own a box for 2 10" subs. The problem is that the amp and subs I already have aren't exactly mine (on loan), and they aren't really that good. (Punch Z?)

I want bass, but I want to hear the music over it at the same time. And If I need anything to save my battery (or an optima or something), include that too.

Thanks

 
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everyone here will have there own opinion, i'm not that good with giving info since i havent used that many products, but you are on a good start.
that HU is good, so i dont see a reason for you to change it.
the box with will work if you want 10" subs, and yea, those punch z's really suck, i've heard midbass's that had more bass than those things.
i'd say 2 10" subs, an amp for them, and a set of components up front and an amp for those, i wouldnt do anything with the rears.
i'm running a 1200watt class d amp and i havent had electrical problems (lights dim, but its not bad).

 
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Yeah, the Z's do suck.

I'm looking for product numbers and stuff that would work good.

I'm not saying that need to keep this box and go with 10's. Just that I have the box if someone thinks 10" would be a good option.

 
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i've always found that JL w3v2's had good performance for the price, its a really nice woofer and two 10's would definately pound and sound good at the same time.
for those subs, you would need an amp that did 500-600watts, like a JL 500/1, rockford 501bd. i really like rockford amps, the power series are good amps.
rockford also makes a nice 2 channel amp, the 351S, i believe it does 90 watts x 2 at 4 ohms, thats pretty healthy, put that on a set of diamond audio components, like the M3's or M6's, and you are set.
remember, i'm recommending items i have used or owned.
so i say:
diamond audio m3 (less than $200 authorized, or the M6's, $300 or so authorized)
rockford fosgate 351S (less than $200 on the net) and 501bd (less than $400 on the net) - try sounddomain.com for rockford items
JL audio 10w3v2 dual 2 ohms, i think they are less than $200 a piece.

thats what i recommend, but others will have there own opinions, do you have some shops close to you that you can go to and listen to speakers and subs?

 
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Yeah, I've always dealed with this shop in CT, but I moved. I'm going back there next weekend though, and I want to have a part list in hand so I know what to look out for and ask about.

 
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what are the dimensions of the box?

what type of box (sealed, ported, bandpass)?

must know this before a good sub recommendation can be made. if it's punch z's in a bandpass, upgrading the subs will help but may not be that great still.

 
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The box is sealed... 13"H x 30"W x 13"D. I can always change if it isn't good.

 
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thats about 1.25 cubes for each sub then. thats a lot for a 10" sub really. i can't think of any off the top of my head that have a recommended volume that big, except maybe a kicker compVR.

i'd recommend picking subs, then getting a box to match. there are plenty of cheap but good options out there. then you wouldn't be stuck with a 10" sub neccesarily either.

 
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Yeah... I don't mind if I have to buy a new box or whatever. I'm just looking to put together something good. The only thing I don't want to rebuy is the HU.

 
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Any other opinions?

 
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2x10"alpine type r's...i personally prefer 1x12", but 2 10's will do fine... hmm...get the alpine 2xm350 mono amp to power each sub (those are relatively cheap, like $200/amp), and a good set of components (diamond audio, mbquart etc), and an alpine f340, or 540 depending on the wattage of the components you get, and some decent 6x9, i hear the alpine type R 6x9 are very sweet...total price should be somewhere w.i the 1500 range

 
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id think you could go with 1 really nice subwoofer as opposed to 2 crappier ones.

an idmax d2 goes for under 300 shipped on ebay these days brand new.
pair that with a 1 ohm stable mono amp that has 500-1000 watts, possibly a hifoncs bx1000d, a jbl 600.1, etc etc...

thats a damn nice sub wth a decent amp for 600 bucks.

directed audio viper 650.2 components sound like a 300 dollar set, but are on sale at sounddomain.com for like 239

pair that with a viper 400.2 for 169 on sounddomain, thats 350ish after shipping for a component set and an amp.

youre up to under 1000 dollars, save teh rest for install accessories, etc...

thats teh route I'd go, but thats just me, dont take my word on it.

 
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How would one 12" compare to two 10"? Would it be just a good?

 
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how would 1 12" compare to 2 10's?
i feel like being slightly nerd-core so im going to compare all the subs currently listed as reccomendations against each other

first lets compare theoretical output, or in english, a rough estimation of loudness.

depends on power vs enclosure vs displacement

say optimum power, in optimum enclosure, so that displacement is only changing factor:

first let me explain displacement. same as a car detonates x amount of gas/air, a speaker has a cone area and that cone area moves a certain amount forward and backwards, therefore, a certain amount of air is displaced. cone area, or Sd, is measured in square units, linear excursion (xmax) in linear units, hence cm^2 * cm = cm^3 (i prefer the metric system because its all in units of 10, and no, im not canadian)

alpine type r 10 has a cone area of 320.47 cm^2, and 13.87 mm's of linear excursion, or, 1.387 cm's of linear excursion one way (Sd * xmax * 2), thats 889 cm^3 of displacement 1778 for 2 of them

jl 10w3v2 d4 has Sd of 345 cm^2, xmax of 14.7mm's, displacement = 1014.3 cm^3, 2028 for 2 of them

punch z has Sd of 350.1, xmax of 6.1, displacement = 427.1 954.2 for 2 of them

idmax has Sd of 545, xmax of 24.9, displacement = 2714

theres other factors such as frequency response, transient response, but thats so friggin technical it would take me twice as much to even begin to explain it

EDIT:
forgot to add the diamond woofers slick suggested, but im sure you could all figure this out on your own by now, and if you cant, then you suck at math

also

please dont go running around saying how your subs have more displacement than other peoples subs, and thats why yours are the loudest. This is very very theoretical stuff, and most of the time nature likes to **** it up. if i went deeply enough into it, i could factor in altitude, temperature, and humidity. also, sometimes things just dont add up but they just are. physics is weird like that

 
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go with one sub, invest in a nice 12" and buy an amp that powers it properly to what u want.

U can ask opinions all day, and trust me we will all give u ours, but at the end of the day....go to a few stores. and listen to the subs urself. what bob-o may like may not be what u like.

DONT BUY FROM THE STORE, go home and look on the net to compare prices. everyone has different prices.

Most importantly, buy a good sub, but SERIOUSLY INVEST in a GOOD amp. dont skimp on the amp.....i think enought of us can vouch for that!

 
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Thanks for the help guys. I didn't know that it was that big of a difference (1 12" vs 2 10")

 
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I had 2 12' Punch Z's the older ones that were 90W rms, I bought them when I was 15, I talked dad into getting em installed at bestbuy mind you i didnt know a whole lot at the time and I didn't choose the Z's on my own it sounded good in the store, and so i was like.. ok.. the dude sold me a 360.2 for 2 12" punch Zs.... 90W rms each and about 360W from the amp when bridged so u figure almost exactally double what the subs needed, they also sold me the warranty... dumb ****s, i got a new sub every couple weeks for almost a year when i decided to get 1 12" typeR, so once i got the typeR put it, it sounded GREAT the only thing was, although it was 300W rms compaired to 2 90W rms subs, it was lacking in cone area, so I didn't feel the bass like I used to, so i decided to get another TypeR, then.. i ended up getting a 601S to give each sub 300W rms, the point im getting at is, the 1 type R was waaaay better than the Z's in quality, but the Z's had a *little* more bass (spl) than the 1 12" or alteast thats how it seemed. but i would still go with 1 12" typeR over 2 12" punch Z's.
thats just my 2 cents..

 
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i'd say the single IDMAX 12 would be a good choice. ebay would be your best bet on that (saw one the other day there for buy it now for $250). then an amp that will give you the reccommended power for it (1000 watts RMS). For that I'd probably go with the Hifonics bx1000d. Its got good clean power at a reasonable price. There are other amps I could reccommend here, but I thin this one is probably the most reasonably priced (ebay this as well). For the components, I'd say CDT HD62EF or Focal 165V2 or Focal 165K or Diamond Audio S600s, maybe BA Pro6.5. Amp for them (depends on if you want brands to match or not really as to what I'd reccommend). The HU is fine. If you want/have enough money left over, possibly something for the rear deck. Not a must, but I like having rear fill.

 
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Thanks again. I just have one question left. And that would be about the box.

I did some reading and it seems like the ID Max is what I'm going to go with. But what kind of box should I go with for it.

I heard bandpass hit the hardest, but cause a delay. I'd rather not have the delay though (depending on what they really mean by delay). What about a ported box from Q-logic or other company? Or would just a plain sealed box be the way to go.

If it matters, I listen to all music. Mostly rock/hardcore, but I listen to rap and stuff too.

thanks again.

 
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i personally wouldn't go bandpass. IMO they're more for looks and hard as hell to tune. I'd say either sealed or ported to their specs (available at their site www.imagedynamicsusa.com ) if you aren't confident building a box, a local audio shop could either build you one or at least help you figure dimensions. as well as some people here.

 
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customize it...
from what i've heard before the best souding box was something like this:

there are 3 chambers...
center chamber: this is where the woofer is mounted
2 side chambers: there are 2 vents in the back of the center chamber, this is where air will flow from the center chamber out.
your side chambers will have vents facing out so the air goes back from the woofer, out the 2 internal vents into their respective side chambers, and out the front of the side chambers. Use buffering material on the vents, and don't directly mount the woofer onto the carpeted box, use a .5 cm rubber buffer. The sound that comes out of such a design is phenomenal!! Chambering of sound is incredible. The time i heard this was at al and eds, where they used an eclise 10" and OMFG, at 50% volume, that thing was shaking up the damned block!

 
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http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=13204

kinda looks like that...but with vents on BOTH sides

 
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I can't customize a box lol. I wouldn't know the first thing. I'll check with the shop and see what they can do or recommend. Thanks for the help.

 
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if it was at al & eds then it was probably just a ported box... nothing special...

i HIGHLY doubt that a chain store would carry dctt or transmission line enclosures

 
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1.5-1.8 cubic feet sealed for the idmax

or 2.3-2.5 cubic feet ported tuned to 28-32hz.

That should sound pretty good.


Btw, I have 2 JL Audio 10w6 F/s if you're interested