Custom
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Custom
so i am planning to make a custom enclosure in the spring, mean while i am taking my time in reaserching. what i am thinking of, is taking out the spare, and the fake trunk floor, getting a new wooded floor, and a custom box under it and the sub in there, just like dereks car, and then covering the wood with fiberglass to give it a nice look. i one have 1 12' rockford punch, so i should have enugh room, but i have a couple of questions
For the wood, when i am sticking the sides together to make the box, what should i use, i was thinking nailing them together, and then using some kind of adhesive or silicon along the inside edges, but when i see cutom boxes i never see any screws or nails, please correct me here.
for the glass, can i do it streight on the wood, or should i still use a cloth pver the wood.
what size should i make the box?
how many layers of fibre glass sheet should i use.
thanks guys
For the wood, when i am sticking the sides together to make the box, what should i use, i was thinking nailing them together, and then using some kind of adhesive or silicon along the inside edges, but when i see cutom boxes i never see any screws or nails, please correct me here.
for the glass, can i do it streight on the wood, or should i still use a cloth pver the wood.
what size should i make the box?
how many layers of fibre glass sheet should i use.
thanks guys
here's the info
Here is the info that I have found on the net and other various resources. I plan on doing mine this spring also. Hope this helps. You should use MDF like from home depot.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ad.php?t=16804
www.garbled.net/tim/fiberglass.html
www.carstereo.com/help/index_installation.cfm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ad.php?t=16804
www.garbled.net/tim/fiberglass.html
www.carstereo.com/help/index_installation.cfm
Use MDF, hold the box together with self boring screws so you dont split the MDF.
Most shops use either a pneumatic nail gun or screws to put boxes together, then they use either silicone or liquid nails to make all seams airtight.
Most shops use either a pneumatic nail gun or screws to put boxes together, then they use either silicone or liquid nails to make all seams airtight.
and wood glue to hold the wood together! lets not forget the wod glue!
one layer of THIN fiberglass is enough to get a paintable surface on that MDF top.
and for box size, go with manufactrure spec.
if you are looking to make a permanent easy structure, lemme know, ill go into it, if you want a removable fiberglass well box, then do a search, ive retyped my false floor DIY at least three times here, shouldnt be too hard to search out. much more complex, and looks exactly the same, but its removable.
one layer of THIN fiberglass is enough to get a paintable surface on that MDF top.
and for box size, go with manufactrure spec.
if you are looking to make a permanent easy structure, lemme know, ill go into it, if you want a removable fiberglass well box, then do a search, ive retyped my false floor DIY at least three times here, shouldnt be too hard to search out. much more complex, and looks exactly the same, but its removable.
What I do in the shop:
use 3/4" MDF.. nothing smaller or you risk blowing the box apart.. then for everyplace that I want to put in a screw, I drill the hole, countersink it, then put the screw in. Then I fill in the gap with bondo and sand it flush to the wood.. then whether the box is getting fiberglass or painted or whatever.. no screws!
As for the fiberglass, you'll want to make something like a skeleton (if you want to call it that).. then pull FLEECE (it works the best.. roughly $10 a yard from walmart) to stretch over your wood skeleton. I use a nail air gun to attach the fleece to the wood.. then you can just go from there.. Fairly simple, just takes a lot of planning on what exactly you want to do.
Otherwise you CAN just put the fiberglass flat over the wood but it's very predictable that in time, it will crack. Fiberglass is stronger when it has contours and angles.. Good luck w/everything
use 3/4" MDF.. nothing smaller or you risk blowing the box apart.. then for everyplace that I want to put in a screw, I drill the hole, countersink it, then put the screw in. Then I fill in the gap with bondo and sand it flush to the wood.. then whether the box is getting fiberglass or painted or whatever.. no screws!
As for the fiberglass, you'll want to make something like a skeleton (if you want to call it that).. then pull FLEECE (it works the best.. roughly $10 a yard from walmart) to stretch over your wood skeleton. I use a nail air gun to attach the fleece to the wood.. then you can just go from there.. Fairly simple, just takes a lot of planning on what exactly you want to do.
Otherwise you CAN just put the fiberglass flat over the wood but it's very predictable that in time, it will crack. Fiberglass is stronger when it has contours and angles.. Good luck w/everything
It depends on the application..
but typically, we just glue them then screw them (wow that sounds bad lol)
But it's not that time consuming.. for the "Universal Sealed One Size Fits All" Enclosure (the basic rectangular box).. I can have the wood cut, assembled and carpeted in 20 minutes-ish
But we dont build those too often because we just order premade ones. The only ones we build in the shop are the custom ones and yup.. then it's drill, countersink, screw. Thank god for the cordless drill
but typically, we just glue them then screw them (wow that sounds bad lol)
But it's not that time consuming.. for the "Universal Sealed One Size Fits All" Enclosure (the basic rectangular box).. I can have the wood cut, assembled and carpeted in 20 minutes-ish
But we dont build those too often because we just order premade ones. The only ones we build in the shop are the custom ones and yup.. then it's drill, countersink, screw. Thank god for the cordless drill
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