Fuse problem!!!
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HISPAnIC CAUSIn PAnIC
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: sacramento, California, US
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Fuse problem!!!
my system has been stressin me lately so any help will be great..
ok i have a RF 1001bd amp pushing a kicker 12" l5 and the system was bumpin for about 45 mins until i blew my 80 watt fuse. so i guess i need to upgrade my fuse what should i do try to find a 100 watt fuse or upgrade my whole fuse system. BTW i am using 8ga wiring just in case it makes a differance.
ok i have a RF 1001bd amp pushing a kicker 12" l5 and the system was bumpin for about 45 mins until i blew my 80 watt fuse. so i guess i need to upgrade my fuse what should i do try to find a 100 watt fuse or upgrade my whole fuse system. BTW i am using 8ga wiring just in case it makes a differance.
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Moore, Oklahoma, US
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wow, 8gauge on a 1001bd, i think that amp can accept 1/0gauge, i'd put atleast 4gauge on it.
i think the amp has a 100amp fuse rating, so atleast start with that.
seriously consider larger gauge wire though.
i think the amp has a 100amp fuse rating, so atleast start with that.
seriously consider larger gauge wire though.
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,242
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From: Moore, Oklahoma, US
Rep Power: 317 

the manual should have the fuse rating, i found the info on sounddomain.com, i figured it would be harder to find it on rockfords website now that the new stuff is out.
i believe the gauge of the wire determines how much current can pass through it, but i dont know for sure, hopefully one of the audio gurus can help you on that one.
i believe the gauge of the wire determines how much current can pass through it, but i dont know for sure, hopefully one of the audio gurus can help you on that one.
Yup thats the issue. You need 4 guage wire and a 100 AMP fuse.
Key Features:
* 500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
* 1000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
* Class bd technology
* requires 4-gauge power and ground leads and a 100-amp fuse and fuse holder — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
* selectable 50-250 Hz variable low-pass crossover, 24 dB/octave
* MEHSA mounting technology increases the heat transfer from the MOSFET output devices to the heat sink, for higher power output, lower operating temperatures, and greater reliability
* TOPAZ noise-killing differential inputs eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
* preamp outputs for easy connection to a second amplifier
* wired remote control of Punch Bass (0-18 dB centered at 45 Hz) — gives you fingertip control of your bass impact
* bd Sync — allows you to bridge together two separate Rockford Fosgate Class bd amps (with an optional cable) to power one woofer
* subsonic filter removes frequencies below 20 Hz for increased efficiency
* 13-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
* 2-year warranty
Key Features:
* 500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
* 1000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
* Class bd technology
* requires 4-gauge power and ground leads and a 100-amp fuse and fuse holder — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
* selectable 50-250 Hz variable low-pass crossover, 24 dB/octave
* MEHSA mounting technology increases the heat transfer from the MOSFET output devices to the heat sink, for higher power output, lower operating temperatures, and greater reliability
* TOPAZ noise-killing differential inputs eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
* preamp outputs for easy connection to a second amplifier
* wired remote control of Punch Bass (0-18 dB centered at 45 Hz) — gives you fingertip control of your bass impact
* bd Sync — allows you to bridge together two separate Rockford Fosgate Class bd amps (with an optional cable) to power one woofer
* subsonic filter removes frequencies below 20 Hz for increased efficiency
* 13-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
* 2-year warranty
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,242
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From: Moore, Oklahoma, US
Rep Power: 317 

agu is a type of fuse that can carry upto a certain amount of current (i think its 100amps), if you need a bigger one, then you need an anl fuse, i know my local shop has 300amp anl fuses.
type of fuse doesnt really matter much, no. at the battery, definily be up to at least 100 amps draw, breaker or fuse, of any type. it should never break under normal use.
otherwise, Lud is right, 4 guage is really a necessity of a healthy stereo with that kind of powerdraw, and at least 80 amps by the amp if you decide you want to run a fused D-block, which may be insufficient. all in all, with 120 amp fuse by the batteyr and no fuse by the amp with 4 gauge power wire would solve a great many problems abd bring everything up to audio "spec"!
otherwise, Lud is right, 4 guage is really a necessity of a healthy stereo with that kind of powerdraw, and at least 80 amps by the amp if you decide you want to run a fused D-block, which may be insufficient. all in all, with 120 amp fuse by the batteyr and no fuse by the amp with 4 gauge power wire would solve a great many problems abd bring everything up to audio "spec"!
u need an agu 100 amp fuse. like i said in my first post. buy an amp kit from ebay BC it includes the fuse and fuse holder, as well as everything else u need. just make sure in the auction they fuse is 100 amps.
Registered!!
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Cleveland, OH
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get a bigger fuse. if it's the cylinder type fuse then just get a higher rated one, 2 are like 5 bucks. you can get 'em at best buy or any place with moderate car audio selection. get a 100 or 120 AMP (not watt
) one
) one The amp will have a fuse located physically on it. Whatever that is you need an exact replacements.
However, it doesn't matter what type of fuse the power wire uses next to the battery. You simply need any fuse and fuse holder that match and has a rating of 100 AMPS or more. It can be anything over 100 AMPs.
Personally given your issues I would get a cicuit breaker. Then if it trips you simply reset it. Just like in your house. If you go w/ fuses and they blow, then you need to replace them. If your having trouble now. You'll have trouble every time the damn thing blows.
This is what I have in my civic and in my truck. I like these much better than fuses and will never go back. I love having the convenience of hitting a button and everything in the back is cut off from the battery. I bought the 140 AMP ones even though my car amp total 70 AMPS and the truck amps total 60 AMPs. I would go 140 at least for you. Then if you add more amps you are already good to go.
Audiopipe Circuit Breaker
Stinger Circuit Breaker
However, it doesn't matter what type of fuse the power wire uses next to the battery. You simply need any fuse and fuse holder that match and has a rating of 100 AMPS or more. It can be anything over 100 AMPs.
Personally given your issues I would get a cicuit breaker. Then if it trips you simply reset it. Just like in your house. If you go w/ fuses and they blow, then you need to replace them. If your having trouble now. You'll have trouble every time the damn thing blows.
This is what I have in my civic and in my truck. I like these much better than fuses and will never go back. I love having the convenience of hitting a button and everything in the back is cut off from the battery. I bought the 140 AMP ones even though my car amp total 70 AMPS and the truck amps total 60 AMPs. I would go 140 at least for you. Then if you add more amps you are already good to go.
Audiopipe Circuit Breaker
Stinger Circuit Breaker
Thread Starter
HISPAnIC CAUSIn PAnIC
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,394
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From: sacramento, California, US
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ok so i need to buy this crap right...
4ga wiring w/80 watt fuse
if that fuse blows to i will then switch to a anl fuse holder and use this 150 watt fuse
and so i dont fry my amp this nice cercuit breaker
bringing my total to $12.95 + $29.95 + $11.25 + $12.99 = alot more than i expected.
4ga wiring w/80 watt fuse
if that fuse blows to i will then switch to a anl fuse holder and use this 150 watt fuse
and so i dont fry my amp this nice cercuit breaker
bringing my total to $12.95 + $29.95 + $11.25 + $12.99 = alot more than i expected.



