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Basicaly I'm looking for some quick opinions on if this stuff is good or not. I'm getting a sub, pretty powerfull, and I already got a problem with road noise. I'm going to dead my whole interior and this stuff fits the bill.

Is it good or what?

 
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looks to be comparable to dynamat with a little less weight, according to the numbers. seems good to me

 
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haha.......man u wanna get subs...

i wanna take mine out...hahah

wt r u planning to get...?

 
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Kicker, not def sure yet. VX series 12in I think. Or maybe the VR 12in. I get the stuff ~30% of msrp. Yeahh baby. I'm not too fond of the squares so I dont think I'll get the L5 or L7's... even though they are supposed to be better.

I'm slightly worried if I got with a 750RMS sub (VX), that i'll have some issues with powering it, not with the amp, but with the electrical system of the car, headlights dimming, rpms changing, fans slowing down on the bass notes, ect. I dont wanna have to buy an extra battery. Maybe I"m going overboard? The VR is 400RMS, better coice?

 
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I have the competition kicker sub and it dims all my lights and sometimes if the amp overheats it just cuts out.

 
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I have the competition kicker sub and it dims my headlights, when the amp overheats it just cuts out.

 
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i have a 900rms Hifonics sub and i have had it installed for about 2 months and it already killed one normal battery and the electrical system struggles. i bought a batcap 800 and that helps some. i think having an extra battery is worse for the alternator becuase it has to power both batteries even with an isolator

 
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Sound deadeners like dynamat and all the rest of the asphalt based ones on the market serve only one purpose really: to add mass to your panels so they do not vibrate as bad. Yes adding mass helps to hinder noise from coming through your panels in the form of vibration so it is good to have, but it always kills me when I see people spend hundreds of dollars on brand name. Most of these products are simply sheets of plyable asphalt. My buddy used to have an evo that I helped him sound proof for about $75 total (the entire car) with a great product called "grace ice and water guard"....a common roofers asphalt sheeting. It reduced panel vibration, road noise, and even gave him an audible boost in sound level. Really any mass loading product is going to give you a decent result. As far as 750w RMS being too much, thats a tough thing to judge. Youll need to upgrade your big three for sure if you are going to be using an amp thatr spits out that much continuously. Why would you need that much power anyways? When manufactuers throw out those numbers, its just to catch the eye, because the average consumer sees it as higher power rating=better sub. You dont need that much power to drive that sub. What box you use plays a huge role in how much power you need. The rule of thumb is, the bigger the box, the less power you need to make the sub reach xmax. This is even more so true if you use a ported box. I see that the minimum rec sealed vol for the vx is 1.0cf, so I would get a sealed box at least 1.5cf, preferably around 2cf, and throw about 400w RMS at it.

 
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Oh and whatever you do, do not buy a cap! Waste of money! Caps do not help save batteries or alternators if they are insufficient to begin with. A cap is simply a resevoir for power, when that amp demands more power than the alternator and battery can supply in one hit, the cap simply fills in power from its own reserve. So in essence, you are just placing another drain on your electical system that is only going to end up sucking more power from your car, making your electrical problem worse in the end. If you are really concerned about dimming headlights or dying batteries/alternators, upgrade your big 3 first, then your alternator. Battery upgrade is up for debate right now, but I would just stick with your average battery, because all those gel cells and spiral tech batteries have their own problems. I can tell you right now though, I am throwing 400w RMS into an Adire Brahma MkIV in 1.5cf and my cars electrical system is having no problems. In fact, I get more dimming lights when i turn on my A/C or heater than when a deep bass note hits at 75% volume.

 
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^^^ thanks man!! Rep worthy post. +1

So... If I get the Kicker VR 12" (07CVR12) 400RMS, 800Max, then I should be okay if I run their ZX series amp (06Zx4001) thats rated at 400? Btw, this is all at 2ohms. Or would I be running the amp at the max? Not quiet sure, if someone that knows stereos could check out the specs of this amp and let me know if it matches with the sub, that'd be more reppage.

 
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wait waht's the big 3

 
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I used to have a 12" sub rated at 1200 max and 400 rms. The amp rated at 350 rms and 800 max. My lights dimmed of course, but i had the sub for over 2 years and my battery never died. nor did i have any kind of problems with fans or rpms or any of that stuff. The headlight dimming thing can be fixed with a cap or another battery. Upgrading your current battery to lets say an OPTIMA or something will help reduce the dimming, but thats about as good as it gets. besides, the dimming aint so bad. you should be fine with what your hooking up. Ive seen more destructive systems and havnt herd of any of those serious problems. Its Nothing that bigger wires or a better battery or a cap cant fix or help

 
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yeah... what is the big three?

 
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the cvr's are a great choice. in most cases i recommend the 12" cvr and the 4001 zx amp. that would hit plenty hard. the only downside is that the zx amp uses a lot of power. a good amp and should be a little cheaper are the new mtx 300xd. it hits just as hard as the zx4001. the mtx 600xd is the same price as the zx4001, uses less power and hits just as hard as the xz7501.
just my two cents

oh and the zx and xd amps can both push 2 12" very well... even the 400 and 300 watt amps

 
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So looking at the 07CVR12... 400RMS, 800max... (2 or 4 ohm... dont exactly know the dif... some ppl say its the way then can be wired, but that doesnt make any sence to me- how are they going to perform, and how are they going to deman power from the amp differently?) Whats the relationship exactly to what to look for in an amp... to me, 400RMS seems like it would be working a 400w amp pretty hard.. no? And 1,000w amp just seems lke overkill. If I get the kicker amp, the 06zx4001, ...one chanel... am I set... I mean, will it peak at the same 800 max of the sub, or will it get cut off at 400 or what?

 
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larger wires for bat-alt-ground

 
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Infinity 10 Kappa Perfect Series with Alpine MRP-M650. I am using a product called Rammmat which I got for 60' x 15" for $120 and it works great with amplifing the bass, but road noise is still present.