What did you use to mold your body kit?
Thread Starter
A long winded 7th genr
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,755
Likes: 0
From: Northern California Humboldt
Rep Power: 287 
What did you use to mold your body kit?
Can anyone please recommend a good and strong body filler/panel adhesive for molding my body kit?
Here's the story behind it: On my first car I owned, I used a "Polyester body filler" by a brand called 'Cuz' and it worked great.Couple years later, on my Civic, I've used straight up bondo, because I couldn't find 'Cuz' and to tell you the truth, Bondo did not meet my expectations. Additionally, I've already painted the car and it's cracked because of it, so any reccommendations that anyone has even if I have to start over is OK. I've researched a couple of Panel bonding adhsives, the best which seems to be 3M part number 03118 'Panel bonding adhesive' However to apply this mix, you need a pneumatic gun and therefore out of the question as the gun apparently cost about 300 dollars. I've heard a brand called "Dura-mix" is good, can anyone confirm this? Thanks everyone.
Here's the story behind it: On my first car I owned, I used a "Polyester body filler" by a brand called 'Cuz' and it worked great.Couple years later, on my Civic, I've used straight up bondo, because I couldn't find 'Cuz' and to tell you the truth, Bondo did not meet my expectations. Additionally, I've already painted the car and it's cracked because of it, so any reccommendations that anyone has even if I have to start over is OK. I've researched a couple of Panel bonding adhsives, the best which seems to be 3M part number 03118 'Panel bonding adhesive' However to apply this mix, you need a pneumatic gun and therefore out of the question as the gun apparently cost about 300 dollars. I've heard a brand called "Dura-mix" is good, can anyone confirm this? Thanks everyone.
Thread Starter
A long winded 7th genr
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,755
Likes: 0
From: Northern California Humboldt
Rep Power: 287 It's "going" to CRARACK!? NOOOOOOO!!!! What products would you recommed to alleviate this problem? (As per the original post this was the information I was looking for.) My persistence is inexorable, therefore giving up is not an option.
Thread Starter
A long winded 7th genr
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,755
Likes: 0
From: Northern California Humboldt
Rep Power: 287 Perhaps there is someone that posts here that has experience working on bodykits and can give me a recommendation on what products to use to mold my body kit? Anyone? I'm looking for product recommendations, not for people telling me to take it to someone or give up. Thanks! for whomever helps me in advance, if anyone does.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 I'm in the process of molding a lip onto my bumper right now, this is the stuff I'm using - my bodyshop guy used to use it, before he moved to LA and left me and my car all lonely and in need of a new bumper:
http://www.proformproducts.com/en/pr...g/?category=52
Just like any other product used to mold, yes it will crack over time, especially front bumpers, which take a lot of abuse as it is. It's definitely stronger than bondo though, so the ADHESION should last longer. To this day my current bumper (3 years molded) shows no seams through the paint, and stress cracks only appeared after an ITR rolled a towhook into my car on a sloped driveway.
http://www.proformproducts.com/en/pr...g/?category=52
Just like any other product used to mold, yes it will crack over time, especially front bumpers, which take a lot of abuse as it is. It's definitely stronger than bondo though, so the ADHESION should last longer. To this day my current bumper (3 years molded) shows no seams through the paint, and stress cracks only appeared after an ITR rolled a towhook into my car on a sloped driveway.
Ultra-Platinum Super Bonus Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 238 honestly the smartest thing to do is to not mold it. if it's your daily driver especially. any accident, car, curb, bump can crack your bumper and molding. plus, if you mold and get in an accident, it's gonna cost a lot more to repair because you have to get new panels as well.
just my opinion though, if you have a show car, do it it looks great.
just my opinion though, if you have a show car, do it it looks great.
Last time I had this much fun some furniture got broken!
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,839
Likes: 2
From: PA
Rep Power: 360 If you drive it daily, I recommend against filling it. It's very easy to crack there. If it's more a show car, then you should be more than ok.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 It all depends on how you drive, the material of the molded lip, and the quality of the molding work. See the bumper in my sig, it's been through 3 Canadian winters now since molded, slammed and plowing every time. I admit, I haven't been the most careful with that front end, but the polyurethane lip molded with Proform onto my OEM (ABS?) bumper has held up great.
|
|
|
V
|
|
|
V
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 Nope, makes it worse - I have stress cracks where the splitter has caught on curbs and the stabilizer rods pushed into the bumper. But yet again no stress cracks on the mold itself.
Registered!!
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,091
Likes: 0
From: We are Anonymous!
Rep Power: 328 How about Dyna-hair it would be great in this application. Here is a link
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=104
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=104
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 ^^Doesn't sound like it'd be very strong:
A quick, easy way to repair leaks and small holes under the size of a quarter.
Last edited by TeLLy; Dec 20, 2006 at 10:08 PM.
Registered!!
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,091
Likes: 0
From: We are Anonymous!
Rep Power: 328 What do you mean it don't sound strong? DID you miss something or am I just not explaining it well enough? "Dyna-Hair is a body filler formulated with long strands of chopped fiberglass for larger repairs. It doubles the strength of ordinary body fillers and is designed for better flexibility on impact and better cracking resistance."
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 It's still fiberglass which means it's still brittle. "Double the strength of ordinary body fillers" is like saying "this piece of straw is twice as strong as that other piece of straw".
I just don't see how it'd be useful for molding, as essentially this is just Bondo with fiberglass in it. I've used similar stuff to mold my carputer screen, and I've got some cracks and raised surfaces all over the place. It's not fiberglass with resin and it's not urethane adhesive, which is why I wouldn't use it for large molding jobs like a front lip onto a bumper. Ask anyone who works at a reputable body shop what he uses when someone asks for a mold. If he tells you this stuff is great for molding you'd best move on to another shop.
I just don't see how it'd be useful for molding, as essentially this is just Bondo with fiberglass in it. I've used similar stuff to mold my carputer screen, and I've got some cracks and raised surfaces all over the place. It's not fiberglass with resin and it's not urethane adhesive, which is why I wouldn't use it for large molding jobs like a front lip onto a bumper. Ask anyone who works at a reputable body shop what he uses when someone asks for a mold. If he tells you this stuff is great for molding you'd best move on to another shop.
Registered!!
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,091
Likes: 0
From: We are Anonymous!
Rep Power: 328 Well when you put it that way. Just get you some cotton flox and then mix it in with your epoxy resin. This should make you a good paste. If you want it even finer the use micro beeds. Then just apply liberally and mold with a sureform or whatever when you get what you want or atleast close to it. Do a quick cloth overlay. smooth it out with some Dyna lite and you will be good.
Registered!!
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,091
Likes: 0
From: We are Anonymous!
Rep Power: 328 To each his own my friend to each his own. I just took you from one extreme to the other. If you want to stop some where in the middle that is cool. But if you do it my way you will be able to plow freakin snow all day. Heck you might even want to make it your side job.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 ^Good point, but I plow all day as it is using my method. Props on the knowledge though.
ps speaking of side job:
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...94#post4090594
Beat you to it lol.
ps speaking of side job:
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...94#post4090594
Beat you to it lol.
Registered!!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: NY
Rep Power: 0 
i agree
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 
That is right, sorry! I forgot what I was doing for a moment.
Thread Starter
A long winded 7th genr
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,755
Likes: 0
From: Northern California Humboldt
Rep Power: 287 Thank you for all of the information. Inciteful indeed. Does anyone think that using straight fiberglass and resin would be a good idea? It's strong, and flexes a little bit?
Registered!!
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,091
Likes: 0
From: We are Anonymous!
Rep Power: 328 
Ok FIBERGLASS = cloth impregnated with resin.
So as you stated it is not correct. Sorry. But if you are not a little knowledgeable about composites please don't play with them. You can burn your self or catch some thing on fire. I have seen it. Mix some bondo or any polyester too HOT and you get flames.
Too HOT meaning you use too much hardener or Catalyst. 
i used fiberglass first cuz its thick. then i put bondo over that after i sanded down the fiberglass to smooth things out.
Last edited by affixrider; Dec 21, 2006 at 01:24 PM.
Thread Starter
A long winded 7th genr
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,755
Likes: 0
From: Northern California Humboldt
Rep Power: 287 I stand corrected. Looking back at my previous post, I ment to place the word cloth after the word fiberglass. The terminology fiberglass is used commonplace for refering to the cloth itself as well as the final composite. Therefore if I said Fiberglass cloth and resin, it would indubitably be correct.
Buuuuuuut, I think I'm going to use this instead
Auto Body Repair Patch and Filler, Boat Repair Patch and Filler, Fiberglass Repair Patch and Filler - TAP '500' Filler: TAP Plastics
I just called them, and they said that it is in fact a good product for bonding fiberglass to metal. And since it's a polyester filler, it'll be similar to the one I used on my first car. Does anyone think this is a good idea?
Buuuuuuut, I think I'm going to use this instead
Auto Body Repair Patch and Filler, Boat Repair Patch and Filler, Fiberglass Repair Patch and Filler - TAP '500' Filler: TAP Plastics
I just called them, and they said that it is in fact a good product for bonding fiberglass to metal. And since it's a polyester filler, it'll be similar to the one I used on my first car. Does anyone think this is a good idea?
