oil question
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oil question
Ok I am a bit confused. I want to switch over to full syntectic and i have a coupon for three free quarts of of Mobil One. But as many of you know Mobil One does not make a 5w-20. So it seems like my two choices are 0w-20 and 5w-30. I am not sure which will be better considering we are heading in to winter. So what would you guys do? Remember I am in chicago and will have to deal with cold weather. I would appreciate any help and suggestions. 
you'll be set with 5w-30. i have been using mobil 1 fully syntheic 5w-30 for 10k miles now. i live in cali and runs like new during any weather. coldest it gets here is like 50's degrees i beleive... thats early mornings and late nights. afternoon degrees are in the 70's
I think you want the 0W-20 the first number only indicates the viscocity rating when the oil is cold. The 2nd number is when it is at operating temperature, Honda recommends a 5w-20, so I would go with 0W-20.
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Originally Posted by D17thgen
you'll be set with 5w-30. i have been using mobil 1 fully syntheic 5w-30 for 10k miles now. i live in cali and runs like new during any weather. coldest it gets here is like 50's degrees i beleive... thats early mornings and late nights. afternoon degrees are in the 70's
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Originally Posted by dnbguy86
defintely the 0w-20...cuase the "w" indicates the winter temp. rating.
0w-20 is like water, but that's neither here nor there, I use 10w-30, just because it's a little thicker at warm-up.. After boost i'll probably run 20w-50.
I also use Mobil 1.
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Originally Posted by jackal903
if you take a look the mobile 0w-20's bottle, it said it recommand for the replace honda 5w-20. so i am using mobile 0w-20
Cool man.. I dunno if you are referring to me, but i'll take it as though you were.. I never said he couldn't and I was stating a fact.
Originally Posted by RiceRocketeer
Uh, no?
0w-20 is like water, but that's neither here nor there, I use 10w-30, just because it's a little thicker at warm-up.. After boost i'll probably run 20w-50.
I also use Mobil 1.
0w-20 is like water, but that's neither here nor there, I use 10w-30, just because it's a little thicker at warm-up.. After boost i'll probably run 20w-50.
I also use Mobil 1.
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Originally Posted by ctx66
5w-20 and 0w-20 have proven in used oil analysises they can protect just as well as other heavier oils so i see no reason why you should use anything else. thicker isnt always better.
If not better. Alot of newer 5w20s have far better UOAs than 10w30s, etc.
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Originally Posted by RiceRocketeer
Uh, no?
0w-20 is like water, but that's neither here nor there, I use 10w-30, just because it's a little thicker at warm-up.. After boost i'll probably run 20w-50.
I also use Mobil 1.
0w-20 is like water, but that's neither here nor there, I use 10w-30, just because it's a little thicker at warm-up.. After boost i'll probably run 20w-50.
I also use Mobil 1.
Lol, shut up dude you dont know what yur talking about. learned that **** in my general motors sponsored class and unless GM is stupid i believe u can stfu
Originally Posted by ctx66
5w-20 and 0w-20 have proven in used oil analysises they can protect just as well as other heavier oils so i see no reason why you should use anything else. thicker isnt always better.
Careful with synthetic, use it onece you have to use it forever if you go to regular after a year or so you'll get some oil leaks. Best off going for the type of oil that is specified on the cap esically if you haven't moded the hell out of the car and want half *** warenty coverage.
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Originally Posted by dnbguy86
Lol, shut up dude you dont know what yur talking about. learned that **** in my general motors sponsored class and unless GM is stupid i believe u can stfu
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I'm not sure where you're information came from but it's generally accepted common knowledge that syn oil does not cause leaks and you can switch back and forth between syn and dino if you want. Why you'd want to is beyond me but there is no harm in doing so.
Syn doesn't cause leaks - leaks generally form when carbon, sludge builds up owing to dino oil. Dino molecules are, for lack of the technical terms, larger than syn and so they are not as likely to flow around buildup that's at an engine seal.
Syn will not leave the same deposits that dino does but since the syn molecules line up differently or are smaller, they can get around easier/better. This explains why you may see leaks after switching to syn but that's only because dino masked an underlying problem.
Your best bet is to go to syn and stay with it. Stay with it for the superior protection. Stay with it for the superior cleanliness. Stay with it because you're unlikely to have seal problems if you use a high quality syn that keeps the gunk from forming in the first place.
Bottom line - The harmful material that leads to leaks generally forms because of sludge and if you switch to syn you less likely to have cleanliness issues. Syn only makes you aware of the problem but it doesn't cause it.
I'm not sure where you're information came from but it's generally accepted common knowledge that syn oil does not cause leaks and you can switch back and forth between syn and dino if you want. Why you'd want to is beyond me but there is no harm in doing so.
Syn doesn't cause leaks - leaks generally form when carbon, sludge builds up owing to dino oil. Dino molecules are, for lack of the technical terms, larger than syn and so they are not as likely to flow around buildup that's at an engine seal.
Syn will not leave the same deposits that dino does but since the syn molecules line up differently or are smaller, they can get around easier/better. This explains why you may see leaks after switching to syn but that's only because dino masked an underlying problem.
Your best bet is to go to syn and stay with it. Stay with it for the superior protection. Stay with it for the superior cleanliness. Stay with it because you're unlikely to have seal problems if you use a high quality syn that keeps the gunk from forming in the first place.
Bottom line - The harmful material that leads to leaks generally forms because of sludge and if you switch to syn you less likely to have cleanliness issues. Syn only makes you aware of the problem but it doesn't cause it.
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Rep Power: 0 mobil 1 does not make a fully synthetic oil that you guys are thinking about it is ok to switch mobil 1 to another oil. you guys are thinking of amsoil. it is fully synthetic and if you go back to reg oil after the use of a fully synthetic oil you will have engine problems. bty i use 5w-30 i live in south georgia(whats cold weather, never heard of it).
Originally Posted by Flashlightboy
Nasdurus,
I'm not sure where you're information came from but it's generally accepted common knowledge that syn oil does not cause leaks and you can switch back and forth between syn and dino if you want. Why you'd want to is beyond me but there is no harm in doing so.
Syn doesn't cause leaks - leaks generally form when carbon, sludge builds up owing to dino oil. Dino molecules are, for lack of the technical terms, larger than syn and so they are not as likely to flow around buildup that's at an engine seal.
Syn will not leave the same deposits that dino does but since the syn molecules line up differently or are smaller, they can get around easier/better. This explains why you may see leaks after switching to syn but that's only because dino masked an underlying problem.
Your best bet is to go to syn and stay with it. Stay with it for the superior protection. Stay with it for the superior cleanliness. Stay with it because you're unlikely to have seal problems if you use a high quality syn that keeps the gunk from forming in the first place.
Bottom line - The harmful material that leads to leaks generally forms because of sludge and if you switch to syn you less likely to have cleanliness issues. Syn only makes you aware of the problem but it doesn't cause it.
I'm not sure where you're information came from but it's generally accepted common knowledge that syn oil does not cause leaks and you can switch back and forth between syn and dino if you want. Why you'd want to is beyond me but there is no harm in doing so.
Syn doesn't cause leaks - leaks generally form when carbon, sludge builds up owing to dino oil. Dino molecules are, for lack of the technical terms, larger than syn and so they are not as likely to flow around buildup that's at an engine seal.
Syn will not leave the same deposits that dino does but since the syn molecules line up differently or are smaller, they can get around easier/better. This explains why you may see leaks after switching to syn but that's only because dino masked an underlying problem.
Your best bet is to go to syn and stay with it. Stay with it for the superior protection. Stay with it for the superior cleanliness. Stay with it because you're unlikely to have seal problems if you use a high quality syn that keeps the gunk from forming in the first place.
Bottom line - The harmful material that leads to leaks generally forms because of sludge and if you switch to syn you less likely to have cleanliness issues. Syn only makes you aware of the problem but it doesn't cause it.
Hear the man!!!!!!!!!!! 
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Originally Posted by sbuats01
mobil 1 does not make a fully synthetic oil that you guys are thinking about it is ok to switch mobil 1 to another oil. you guys are thinking of amsoil. it is fully synthetic and if you go back to reg oil after the use of a fully synthetic oil you will have engine problems. bty i use 5w-30 i live in south georgia(whats cold weather, never heard of it).
Please research before you spout bullshit to other people.
You will NOT have engine problems if you switch to synthetic from dino, or visa versa. The only time is if the engine is ill maintained and has significant buildup inside of the motor. In this case, you would have bigger problems than just oil type.
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Mobil1 is a fully synthetic oil but I think you might be confusing which Group numbers it is comprised of. Redline is fully syn comprised of Group 5 basestocks. Amsoil is another syn product but not everything they make is Group 5. That isn't to say that Group 5 is the answer to everything either. Other Group numbers can also make up syn oils.
There is no harm in switching back from syn to dino. Dino is less expensive and does provide good protection to 5k miles but for turbo applications, high heat, extreme cold, extended drain intervals, high RPM pulls and a whisker better mileage in some cases, syn is consistently better.
What kind of damage are you referring too? I can't recall a case where switching to a higher quality oil within the manufacuterer's recommended viscosity has ever been listed as source of problems.
Mobil1 is a fully synthetic oil but I think you might be confusing which Group numbers it is comprised of. Redline is fully syn comprised of Group 5 basestocks. Amsoil is another syn product but not everything they make is Group 5. That isn't to say that Group 5 is the answer to everything either. Other Group numbers can also make up syn oils.
There is no harm in switching back from syn to dino. Dino is less expensive and does provide good protection to 5k miles but for turbo applications, high heat, extreme cold, extended drain intervals, high RPM pulls and a whisker better mileage in some cases, syn is consistently better.
What kind of damage are you referring too? I can't recall a case where switching to a higher quality oil within the manufacuterer's recommended viscosity has ever been listed as source of problems.
Listen to flashlightboy, he is right on the money. Go with the synthetic 0w-20 Mobil 1 if you have the cash. Just as an added note, Mobil 1 manufacturers Honda's OEM oils. Its just relabeled as a Honda fluid. Dino juice or synthetic, either one is fine. Just don't listen to the "thicker is better" bull$hit.
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