franzcatch

I bought a 2010 Civic DX new a few years back and made the mistake of getting the model without keyless entry.

Currently, the car does have power windows, but does not have (and has never had) power locks in the doors and now I would like to add them.

I bought this security/keyless-entry system:

I also bought 4 of these actuators:
http://www.adcmobile.com/2010/03/30/...ator-pro-pda1/

I started by popping the panel off of the driver-side door and I found that there was NO existing power lock wiring present. At least it is not apparent. There is a wiring harness in the door for the windows, but I can't tell if there is stuff in it for the locks.

Next, I mounted one actuator into place. When I move the actuator pin back and forth by hand it locks/unlocks the door. However, when I hook up the actuator the the car battery it doesn't provide enough force to actually lock or unlock the door.

I called a local shop for an estimate on getting a system installed and they quoted about $450. I explained my situation the guy and he told me that maybe I just need to add a relay. I have no idea how to go about installing one of those or what the right one would be to get.

Any ideas?

Thanks so much!

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

If you hooked the actuator directly to the battery and it didn't work then a relay won't help. A relay will be needed when you hook it to the keyless entry module. Did the actuators come with instal instructions? Generally actuators need a (-) trigger or ground signal in order to work, but some need a (+) trigger to work. A 30 amp automotive relay would be good, when you are ready to hook it to the module.

franzcatch

Depends on what you mean by "work"

I hooked it directly to the battery and it does move out when hooked up (-) to (+), and moves in when hooked (+) to (-). It just doesn't push hard enough to actually move the lock.

ezone

Then you need to come up with something else, this can't work as-is.



Door latch pic:



See that black ring around a blue connector plug? You'd have to pull your door panel off to see it, the only thin g exposed would be the white circle through the metal of the inner door skin...Does your car have wires in that plug? How many, and what colors?

I haven't ever seen a DX latch so I don't know what wiring would be there. I kinda think there isn't any at all.
We probably only have 2 DX cars that I can remember, and don't see them anymore.

franzcatch

I did pull the door panel off but didn't see anything like this. I do recall seeing the two wires on the right side of your pic. One of them is for the latch, the other for the lock. I connected my actuator to the one for the lock.

The large box on the left side of the pic must have been behind the plastic sheet (a paper-thin layer of plastic that was stuck in-between the door panel and the metal part of the door) so I couldn't see it before.

I will try to find time this weekend to pull the door panel off again and take pics of everything. Only this time, I will remove the plastic sheet as well.

Will report back when I have more info.

Thanks!

ezone

Those are the cables, not wires.

All you would see is the round white plastic ring sticking through from the inside of the door, and blue embedded connector if it has it. The door wire harness connector (if it has one) would be white.

Everything else is hidden inside the door behind steel. I found the pic of the whole latch so you could (hopefully) see where the wiring would be in relation to the opening for the latch in the jamb of the door. If it has any wiring.


That's a vapor barrier. Works sort of like a rain gutter. Try to not tear it, and make sure to get it restuck to the door especially around the bottom area. It can let water into the interior if it isn't stuck right.






I still think that a set of LX (or higher) latches with the actuators built in would be ideal. And probably less hassle.

HTH

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

You may be better off with oem EX/LX latches all around imo.

Getting the wiring fed into those doors will be a challenge.

franzcatch

Okay. I can't quite figure out how to get the whole assembly out of there, but I can definitely see the area you are talking about. The place where there is a blue connector in your picture, on mine it is just a hollow hole. I am guessing that the blue connector is for the actuator. If that is the case, then there is no actuator present at all in my assembly.

I found a set of factory original actuator assemblies for all 4 doors for $200 used - which seems to be a pretty reasonable price.

However, I can't figure out how to get the old assemblies out. Any ideas? Pictures?

Also, assuming I get the actuators, how would I tap my after-market keyless entry system into those blue ports so I can actually control the actuators?

Thanks

ezone

Actuator motor, and some position switches.

NOT reasonable for used parts IMO. Most used parts I deal with are about half of new price.

Check deeper into prices. You can buy a set of 4 new from a dealer for that.

They can be had cheaper and brand new through this place,
(Plus shipping)

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...-+OUTER+HANDLE

Rear doors: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...-+OUTER+HANDLE


The glass track is in the way. There is a 10mm bolt at the bottom of the rail. Remove it. The rail needs to be pulled straight down about 3/4 inch, only far enough so it will move forward, up, and out of the way of getting the latch out. (If you pull it all the way off of the rubber channel seal, you just created a whole lot more work.) The rail will slide back up into place with a bit of finesse, and bolt it in again when done.

There is a cable attaching the outer lock cylinder to the latch. (That picture above shows someone took the entire set out of the door.)
It has a collar with 2 ears on it at the latch, sort of pull it outward 1/8 inch till it clicks, then rock and twist the cable housing to release it out of the latch. Use mirror and flashlight to view before you break something.

Can't remember the link for the outer handle at the moment. Look for linkage clips attached to the handle, or it may have just a pushrod going through a plate on the latch.



Creative wiring. Run your own wiring. Talk to someone that installs car alarms for a living, get pointers.

I'm not sure how feasible it would be to try to swap door and body harnesses....

One option is to go to the junkyard and cut 4 connectors with wiring out of the doors of a dead car. May as well check for availability of everything you want that way.
car-part.com
Search the entire country if you want.
Talk to a human, see if they will get you what you want for a decent price.

franzcatch

72110-SNA-A14 LATCH ASSY., R. FR. DOOR POWER $39.54
72150-SNA-A14 LATCH ASSY., L. FR. DOOR POWER $39.55
72650-SNA-A14 LATCH ASSY., L. RR. DOOR POWER $28.07
72610-SNA-A14 LATCH ASSY., R. RR. DOOR POWER $28.07

I tried to find some reviews of hondaautomotiveparts.com and couldn't find anything about their reputation.

The only thing I could find was the registration info for the website itself:
Any other retailers with a good rep for the same prices that you know of?

Also, since I am going this far, how hard would it be to do an all factory setup?

ezone

I know plenty of people use them. It's Majestic Honda in R.I.
We have had a few (mostly younger) customers bring in parts they ordered from there and I have installed them with no issues. Only drawback might be getting something warrantied if ever was necessary, or if some part was shipped wrong. Otherwise, you look it up, you buy it, you own it.

Check shipping costs though, that could be high.

The price they sell at is comparable to what my employee discount is at the dealer I work for. I haven't really found another dealer that sells this low AND puts up a catalog online this good.
If you want to compare, look up on this site (an official Honda Corp. site) you won't find any discount prices.
http://estore.honda.com/
You can check local dealers inventory there too.



Buy a different car if you want to go that route.
The whole mess is integrated in body control units. Wiring harnesses are different.

franzcatch

Thank you so much for the info. You have been very helpful on this.

I think I will be buying the parts from here:
http://www.bkhondaparts.com

They have a rep on resellerratings, the price comes out to about $9 cheaper and they also accept PayPal. I always like to use PayPal since they have a halfway dispute resolution system. Plus I can use my Discover card on top of PayPal and get coverage through them too.

I will keep you updated in the weeks to come. Have a few house projects to do first, then I will be back on this

ezone

I didn't realize they did online sales like that. They are about 2 hours from me.