justinleblanc

Just bought a 2010 civic sport sedan. I hate the factory speakers. I don't want to change the factory deck though. I also don't want to put in a system that would require me to put in a bigger battery or change the alternator. Basically, I want to put in a the best sounding system I can without changing the factory deck, battery, or alternator. I know my car takes 6 1/2" speakers all around, and I've also been told that it is basically a waste of time investing money in the back speakers considering you can hardly hear them due to the interior design of the car. One 12" sub is all I'll need as I generally like the bass to be accurate and clear, but the majority of the music I listen to is modern rock and I don't want the bass to be too overbearing. But I would like to have a high quality 12" sub in a good enclosure allowing it to really shine, and I would also like to have the absolute best front speakers I can get along with a quality and powerful amp that can drive both the subwoofer and the front speakers, all without having to put in a new battery or alternator. So bearing all this in mind, what is the best system I can install in my car without replacing the battery or alternator? I'm rather uneducated in this so I would like actual models if at all possible so I could price all of the parts I would need to purchase. Thanks in advance!

Staninator

iTrader: (1)

Good Quality Speakers:
1) Polk (full acoustic sound)
2) Kicker (more bass and great acoustic sound)
3) Infinity (what I have... amazing all around sound)

Good Quality Amps:
1) JL Audio
2) Hifonics
3) Alpine
4) Zapco
5) Rockford Fosgate

Good Quality Subs:
1) Kicker
2) Alpine
3) Rockford Fosgate
4) Polk Audio
5) Hifonics

Of course there are many more but do some research. I have an Hifonics Brutus amp with 2 12" Hifonics Zeus subwoofers. My component speakers are Infinity Reference. I have a great all around sound that makes me happy.

Plan on spending some money if you want a good quality sound system. I also highly recommend that you get a aftermarket deck if you want to be able to really experience the difference in your new speakers and subwoofers. If you stick with the factory one you won't be able to make any adjustments to the sound and you'll be stuck with "decent" sound.

For powering speakers and subwoofers I recommend a monoblock class D amp for the subwoofers and a 4-channel class A/B for powering the speakers.

justinleblanc

I've been trying to research it but I don't understand the fundamentals, that's why I'm asking for actual suggestions of models that would be good to install. I can't make heads or tails of power output or what is required to power what. I've also been told that you can't believe the specs of a particular amp/speaker/sub as there is very often bullshit involved and you need to rely more on experience. Unfortunately where I am I don't have the opportunity to test systems out or hear how speakers will sound so I'm basically hoping for some opinions from folks on here. I'm really uneducated in this, I haven't had good experience with car stereo installation people. They don't give me any information or any advice. If anyone has any ideas on a good configuration that they've used or would highly recommend that would be perfect.

I've heard good things about the infinity reference from some other folks too so I'm thinking I might pick those up for my fronts. As for an aftermarket deck, the factory deck has it's fader and balance, and bass and treble controls, and that's about all that was on my last JVC aftermarket deck as well so I'm thinking getting a new deck and tearing most of the dash out and putting in new dash kit (which I've been told is about $400-$500 in the new civics) might not be worth the cost and trouble for the relative benefits it would give me. Great info though, thanks for the advice! I'll be bearing it all in mind.

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

I suggest that you visit Crutchfield for a wealth of information to educate yourself on what will work in your car.

As for the amps, look for ones that are CEA-2006 compliant. Then you are guaranteed the rated output is accurate.

I like the Alpine PDX series amps. Under rated power, low current draw and very clean sound. I am currently installing a 4.100 and 1.600 in my car.

There are many good speakers out there, but it is difficult at best to purchase speakers without hearing them as everyone hears differently. So what sounds good to me may be harsh or muffled to you.
I like the Polk SR5250 speakers. They have the same drivers my Polk LSi25s had in my home system. But I have Boston Pro 6.5s in the car.

Subs are the same way, you really need to hear them to see what you like. Do you want a sealed box, ported, band pass, what order 3rd, 4th, 5th?
How much room are you willing to give up? Do you want tight bass? Sealed.
Loud boomy bass? Ported. Incredible bass from a tiny driver? 5th order, but the enclosure will be big.
Good drivers include JLAudio, Fosgate, Eclipse, Alpine, Focal, Image Dynamics and others. Big subwoofers require big power amps.

Not exactly what you are wanting but a price budget would help with suggestions. You can pick up an entry level Rogue Acoustics system starting at $70,000. Or you can put in a decent system for under $2000.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Since you have the 2010 model, i doubt you want to rip through your dash and put in a new deck
If you did, I would suggest at least spending 500+ on a double din touch screen deck, or nothing at all

With that said, Infinity reference speakers are great. I've tested them and really liked it...But for $10 bucks more, i opted for Polks which sounded much clearer in acoustic and vocals, something you might be interested in if you're into modern rock (what is that btw? like nickelback, maroon 5 and the sort? if so you definately should look into some polks)

By your comment on wanting decent bass, but not loud enough to wake the neighbors, I would suggest just maybe getting 2 10" in the trunk powered by a decent class D amp.

justinleblanc

I want tight bass so sealed enclosure it is. Also, budget would be in the sub $1000 range. I don't need perfection, I just want the best bang for my buck. Any more suggestions? Can I get an alpine PDX amp that will drive both of the front speakers and a 12" sub? And I have personally been impressed with the Alpine S type speakers when they were amped from the head unit in my previous vehicle. Are type Rs much better for the price? And would any PDX amp be able to power two type Rs in the front and a 12" sub as well? And if a PDX amp would power the two speakers and a sub, would my cars electrical system (2010 honda civic sport sedan) be able to handle it?

justinleblanc

Just saw your post now Kenny. Modern rock (by my definition, that is) is three days grace, nickelback, seether, that sort of thing. So you've got the right idea there. Two tens in a sealed enclosure seems to be what I'd be interested in. And the polks you mentioned sound like the sort of sound I'd be looking for. I'm assuming if I amplified them there would be a pretty major difference? Also, what is the model you're referring to in the polks?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Yep, 2 10"s in a sealed box, with 1 or 2 channel amp

and polk db or sr series powered by a 4 channel amp

Shouldnt run you more than $500~800 depending on what you get and where you get them

justinleblanc

So I would be forced to go with two amps if I want to power two subs and the two front speakers, is that right? Or would I be able to go for an all-in-one amp? And if both are viable options, are there advantages/disadvantages to going with a single amp as opposed to two?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

You can have a 5 channel amps, 4 for speakers, and 1 for sub
Or a 6 channel amp, 4 for speakers, and 2 bridged for sub

Disadvantage?
Lower output compared to 2 amps

Advantage?
1 Amp

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

The Alpine 4 or 5 channel amps are not going to power 2 subs. I have the one mono amp powering the one sub. I would almost consider the 1.1000 for 2 subs. You can easily run 2 or 3 of the PDX series amps in your car with no issues.

justinleblanc

So could I run two PDX amps; one a two channel for one sub, and a four channel for the other sub and the two front speakers without needing a better battery or alternator to support it?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

.......

Why would you do that?
Run two amps, the 2 channel to power the 2 subs, and 4 channel for all speakers

justinleblanc

Oh I thought a sub required two channels instead of one.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Each channel brings a certain amount of power to a speaker
(IE. 250Watts)

2 channels can be bridged to 1 channel to provide more power (like to a subwoofer)
(4 channel amp providing 250 watts each channel, 2 channels bridged could probably provide 400 watts. So that you have 2 channels providing 250 watts each to 2 speakers, and 2 channels bridged to provide 400 watts to a sub)


What I would do is get a 2 channel or 1 channel amp that is 2ohm stable for the sub, run the 2 10"'s in parallel, for 2 ohm load
That way, you get better power out of the subs than running each sub with 1 channel each.

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

If you are still looking at the PDX series amps, I would do a 4 channel amp for the 4 speakers and a mono block amp for the subs. You will get far more power for the subs than you will with their 2 or 4 channel amps. And your electrical system will have no issues with these amps.

justinleblanc

Thanks for all the info guys! I think what I'm going to ultimately do (in steps for now) is put Infinity Reference 6 1/2" components in the front (6030CS), some half decent mtx speakers in the back that basically won't sound too great but won't distort at higher volumes, two alpine s type 10" subs in a sealed enclosure with an alpine mono block amp (one of the MRP series ones) and I'm going to eventually replace the factory deck with a double din touch screen and use that to drive the speakers instead of a separate amp. Sounds like it's going to run me about $2k but it's looking like I'll have a pretty solid setup with this. Any thoughts on a good double din touchscreen deck to put in? I've never used one so I'm going to have to shop around, but if you folks have any that you're particularly fond of or have had good experiences with, let me know.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

The speakers and sub shouldn't run you more than a couple hundred bucks

Your most expensive part of the system is the touch screen deck

imho, i like the pioneer touch screen decks

justinleblanc

Yeah I'm pricing it all now on crutchfield (canada) and the component speakers are $200, the subs are $130 each, the enclosure is $80, and the amp is $250. I'm having trouble finding the mtx speakers I was recommended but I think they're only in the $110-$120 range so that's not so bad. And also I think I found an aftermarket dash kit for my civic that'll only run me about $130 so that's better than I was previously told.

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you will be happy with the type S subs. The Type Rs are considerably better. And can be had for around $99. There are others out there as well in that price range that are better. We put a Type S in a friends Caliber and it distorted very easily. His 8" JL had better sound.

And I would match the rear speakers to the front with some 2 way Infinity's for the same price as the MTX.

justinleblanc

Hmm but if I get type Rs will I need a better amp than the alpine mrp-m500 that I was planning on getting? What would you recommend instead of the type s subs? Also, could the alpine mrp-m500 power two 10" type Rs? If not, what would be a suitable replacement? And would my cars electrical still have no trouble with this setup?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, I dont like alpine subs at all, they seem like the same quality as kickers.

I would probably go for some JL 10W0v2 's or if a little more expensive, some JL 10W3v3 or v2's

You would be more satisfied, very tight bass, and optimal sound

But then again, i can't tell you what you like, so the only way is to test it yourself.
Based on my researching, I like JL audio/FI/Memphis/Ascendant audio subs, combined with either MTX/kicker or JL amps

justinleblanc

Well now I'm not sure. The sub I had in my previous car was the one you pointed me to in my other post here kenny. I was pretty satisfied with the bass it put out, just not quite enough, which is why I'm opting for two subs. Now you would know better than me, is that sub that I used to use absolute trash and my standards are just very low? Would you rate the alpine type s subs of better quality than my old xtreme?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, thats pretty much a no-name brand
The alpines would be louder, but quality wise....i still dont like them

Basically, for the same price, i could get JLs on craigslist, or local store

I would not purchase anything that can be found at bestbuys (alpines are sold there as well)
The markups on those speakers are overated
if they were around $50 a piece, i would tell you to get them just to bang with for a while

justinleblanc

Alright well I'm going to take all of this info and try to find a spot where I can go and listen to some speakers and subs in store. Thanks for the advice, you've been extremely helpful and I've learned a bit too