A/C Short - Honda Civic Forum



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Old 6 Days Ago   #1
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A/C Short

I have an 08 civic. the battery went dead the other day and I recharged it and then it went dead again. so because it was the original I took it to the shop to have it load tested. They told me it was no good so I bought a new and put it in. Then it went dead again. So now I am pretty sure I have a short someplace. I also noticed that each time I touch the neg cable to the terminal (pos still attached) there is a clicking sound. I have determined that the sound is coming from the A/C compressor. I can see the front of the comp move inward each time. I,m guessing its the clutch engaging. So I took out the fuse relay for the a/c and now the battery is staying charged. So I guess my question is what is the next step to correcting the short. Anyone?
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Old 5 Days Ago   #2
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Re: A/C Short

It's not a short.
The relay is stuck on.

Replace the clutch relay. Honda offers an updated relay,

Order the updated relay at any Honda or Acura dealer......
Honda part # 39794-SDA-A05, brand name is Mitsuba.

(The original troublesome relay brand name is usually Omron, there are many of this brand used for various systems all over the car but it's usually only a problem when used for the AC compressor clutch.)
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Re: A/C Short

Okay. Thanks ezone. I will replace it and post results
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Re: A/C Short

So I Replaced the relay with a different relay from the fuse box and that corrected the problem. I will go to town today and get a new one. Now that that problem is solved it leads me to a new problem.


The first time the battery went dead , my daughter had to call CAA to get a boost. After the boost while the car was running she noticed that the car was sounding funny and running rough. The tow truck driver and her opened the hood and noticed there was refridgerant blowing out around the top of the compressor by the rear hose.


So my question is , if the clutch was stuck on, would that cause the pressure to build high enough to cause a leak and if so would there be some kind of release valve for that in the vicinity of the rear hose
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Old 5 Days Ago   #5
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Re: A/C Short

Quote:
So I Replaced the relay with a different relay from the fuse box and that corrected the problem. I will go to town today and get a new one.
Make sure you swap out the relay that was sticking and make sure the new MITSUBA relay goes into the position for the compressor clutch......or else whatever system you swapped the sticking relay with could end up stuck on and draining the battery all over again.

Picture tapping on the horn button one time at a stoplight and it gets stuck on LOL

Quote:
if the clutch was stuck on, would that cause the pressure to build high enough to cause a leak and if so would there be some kind of release valve for that in the vicinity of the rear hose
Absolutely to all of these.

The AC system vented excess pressure through the safety relief valve because the compressor was engaged when it should not have been, so the radiator fans weren't running which causes AC system pressures to elevate tremendously, so pressures went up to at least 500+ PSI (relief valve opening pressure), and the engine trying to idle with the AC pumping that excessive pressure causes the engine to labor and struggle.

Correct repair according to Honda is to replace that relief valve, and recharge the system with the correct amounts of oil and freon.
You could see if the AC is still cool enough, but if much of the charge was vented it may not be as cold as it should be. These small capacity AC systems don't have hardly any room for error.
The relief valve is recommended to be replaced because it may no longer open at the correct pressure or it may slowly leak.
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Re: A/C Short

Awww. So my thinking was correct. Thank you very much. I will replace and recharge. And yes, I did put the new relay into the slot for the comp.
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Re: A/C Short

Some people have reported just recharging the system without replacing the safety valve, and don't seem to notice problems.

You could just add small shots of R134a to top up the system and see if it lasts. Be careful, it's real easy to overcharge these systems and cause even more problems.

(Add a little bit, stop, wait, check vent temp. Repeat until it is as cold as usual. Stop adding when it gets cold!)
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Re: A/C Short

Yes I have been watching some vids on that procedure. I am going to try that but I am having trouble finding out which one to use. The 134a or the 12a. I see you are suggesting 134a. Could you tell the difference between the two.
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Re: A/C Short

There is a label (sticker) in the engine compartment near AC lines or under the hood that states the type of refrigerant to be used (R134a) and the correct amount (weight) to use in that system.

If you are going to DIY this I'd get some containing PAG oil, because some oil was also lost when it belched.
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Old 4 Days Ago   #10
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Re: A/C Short

From a different post I made:


Many different brands sell exactly the same thing.
Read the labels.

R134a is the only correct refrigerant. No mixtures, no substitutes.
With PAG oil is ok if the system has lost oil. ("PAG" is the correct oil. No other types. PAG 46 if you have a choice. )
With UV dye is ok. (UV dye can help you find the leak later on)

Sealants are not ok. If it has a leak, find and fix the leak.
If it ever has to go to a pro, that sealant can clog up the charging station (that's probably worth more than most of the cars it gets connected to)
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