Frankenstien

Hey all ... I'm new here and the (Title) car is new to me, although I've had a couple of Honda cars ... many moons ago ... last was a 1st Gen Accord, so, things Honda have changed ... a lot ...

Immediately after buying this 113K km car (with no service records - bought the car from a young gal who didn't save such things), as soon as I got up on the freeway, I could hear a rear wheel bearing (still not sure what side) ... shoulda' made the freeway run part of my pre-purchase evaluation, right?

Surprising, given the low klicks, but, oh well ... not the end of the world ... I checked my VIN and there was apparently never a '2007 Honda CIVIC Service Brakes, Hydraulic:antilock:wheel Speed Sensor Recall'


(http://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Honda/...r/recall/89335--> can't get 'Insert Link' GUI to pop-up on IE11 [W7 Pro SP1 64-bit] for some reason)


for the Canadian-assembled cars, so no joy there ...

I found a rear wheel bearing thread here:


(https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...l-bearing.html)


for a 7th Gen car ... would the re & re procedure for 8th Gen be the same as the 7th Gen's?


I see the SKF BR930340 (Chinese made, per Lordco, $116~CAD, each) Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing assembly doesn't fit 7th Gens.

While I'm at it here ... I gotta' say the clutch on this car is a touchy mother ... seems to have an extremely long throw ... with engagement beginning to occur with only about an inch or so of travel out from fully-depressed ... I'm a tall guy (6'2" with bad knees) and I find I have to scootch the seat up a couple of notches in order to be able to comfortably keep the clutch pedal fully-in at lights, ect. (and I'd rather not f' around with seat & steering column adj.'s every time I get in & out of this car) ... also, I am more inclinded to sit stopped with the car in N and my foot off the clutch ... easier on t-o bearing, yada, yada ... however, because I can't hear the car running (even with tunes off), I've managed to stall it starting out on inclines again and again ... embarrasing, to say the least. I've now resorted to e-brake use and watching the tach but am seemingly still dialing in on the situation ...


Does this clutch sound like it needs adjusting? (the DOT3 / 4 fl. lvl. is between MAX & MAX) ... so that it is engaging more towards the fully-released pedal position? Or is there a physical pedal adj. possible ... independent of the clutch engagement point adj.? No mention of same in O.'s M. Again, given the low klicks, I wouldn't have thought the clutch would need any attention yet ...


I am also noticing that the shifting can be 'notchy' into 2nd (& 1st) ... especially when cold ... I am inclined to drop the transaxle oil to check for the presence of any metal chips / metallic scum. Then, based on my experience with 'saving' synchro functionality in manual transmissions by using synthetic gear oils, replace it with Red Line Synthetic ... any specific recommendations from the folks here?


I see Honda recommends their own MTF, or, SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil (as poor substitutes) ...


Sorry to be so long-winded with a laundry-list like this ... I can break this thread into different individual threads if that's what the admin(s) / members would prefer ...


Thanks, FFF

ezone

Welcome!
Not sure what a T-town is


Beware. Those cars can eat up rear tires, they chop the inboard edges of the tread and make horrible noises that sound a lot like bearings....or maybe an airplane or helicopter..
Don't mistake this noise for bearing noise!

Rear bearings are a hub-and-bearing unit, it is bolted in from the back side of the knuckle with 4 bolts.

The part is different depending on drum brake or disc brake (DX should have drum)

You should be able to jack up each rear corner and give the wheel a good spin, a bad bearing will usually be heard as a rumble noise.
If the noise is caused by tires there will be zero rumble from the bearings.


Use a bearing from HONDA.
Not China, don't even bother because you'll never get your money back.
Pay good money, get good parts the first time.
(Buy cheap crap and it might not last an hour on the road. Yes there have been threads about this happening.)
Drive down to the US if you need it cheaper LOL

The recall you speak of applied to 06 and 07 cars up to a certain VIN endpoints...
It was an inspection of the ABS wheel speed sensor O rings. If an O ring was damaged during assembly it could allow water and road salt in the bearing area and cause it to go bad.

Your link may not cover info for Canadians and Canadian market cars.
Try this site instead: http://www.honda.ca/recalls


Or have a Canadian dealership check your VIN to see if it and any others have been completed.


Clutch lifespan depends solely on the driver.
A clutch wearing out will cause the engagement point to rise in the pedal height.

Clutch is hydraulic, no adjustments possible other than pushrod free play between the pedal and master, and you don't normally ever need to mess with that unless or until the master cylinder is replaced.
If there is air trapped in the system it might make a low feeling pedal.
Pull any floor mats out from under the pedal too.


Notchy shifts could be related to clutch drag, via that low feeling pedal.

I would use the MTF from a Honda dealer, it's absolutely correct without question, no guessing. It only holds about 1.5 quarts, so it shouldn't break the bank.
Others may have other views though.


HTH

Frankenstien

Hey HTH ... thank you for the welcome and detailed Reply to my thread ...

Find Point Roberts, WA 98281 (the place to import my new Honda OEM bearings to ... although, with the US$ so relatively strong vs. the CAD$ right now, maybe not) on Google Maps ... I'm 8 blocks north of the 49th parallel ... you may notice the tongue-twister indian (as in the original indians, not the more recently landed ones) name of my community ... that some, like me, simply call T-town ...

Yup, mine has rear drums ... and I've been to that .ca link and even talked to a Honda Canada rep on the phone ... they say there was no recall of that type for my VIN for the Canadian-assembled cars ... hmmm ...

Good advice on the tire chewing nature of the car's rear susp. design ... however, I've previously personally heard bad rear wheel bearings on a FWD Pontiac Firefly (Suzuki Swift) ... that I ended up killing a year ago ... it's a rear whl. bearing for sure on this Honda, just haven't put anyone in the back seat to listen for one side vs. the other, nor have I jacked it up to do spin tests ... I figure I'll do 'em both at the same time anyways ...

Your Honda OEM parts preference is also good advice and I appreciate getting steered straight right out of the gate ... I'm getting more and more leery of all the manufactured products coming out of China ... you save a little money up front and then pay again, prematurely, when **** goes sideways later ... all together too soon ...

Your thoughts on air trapped in the clutch hydraulic circuit bear investigation on my part, however, I would expect that system to be more or less self-purging ... and nothing suggests anyone has had reason or occasion to open any of the circuit connections ... the pushrod free play adj. should be self-evident right? There feels like an inch and a half or two of minimal clutch pedal resistance initially (just the pedal spring), then I can feel the resistance of pressure plate disengagement begin ... just seems to me to be an awfully long-throw clutch pedal arc ... from beginning of to fully disengaged ... maybe it's just the way it is designed ... damn strange ... however, if there is something goofy with yon clutch, then of course you're right, the shifting notchiness would not be all that surprising ...

I went outside, looked under the hood and tried to correlate the O.'s M. diagram of the transaxle lubricant fill / check bolt hole location (and surrounding landmarks / casting contours) and have surmised it must be drawn from the perspective of looking up from underneath ... which is likely where I'll best be able to access and check the level ... or do you have to strip the air box / filter out of the way from above?

FFF

ezone

That's not my initials, it stands for 'hope that helps' LOL

That could meanyour car was never affected, or if it was affected the recall was already completed..
Your car may well have been produced after the VIN cutpoint listed in the recall.
It's not just owners, I've seen several techs waste a lot of time and effort (and money) replacing wheel bearings needlessly because of tire noise.
Just make sure of what it really is before you get too deep in it.

I might be a little biased (check my signature), but my livelihood and reputation rely heavily on using top quality products for the work I do.

HINTS:
Any car salesman who uses the name "Honest" is absolutely not.
By the same token:
Any product that states clearly on the box "Professional Quality" is absolutely not.
Any product that states clearly on the box "O.E.M." or carries the brand name "O.E.M." is absolutely not.


IF someone replaced the slave cylinder, that would necessitate bleeding. If the master sucked in air at any point in the process, that air can be a huge PITA to get bled completely out in some of the cars due to the angle of the master cylinder, and the bleeder valve being so low in the system.

Really, if you can locate a similar 1.7L engine car with a manual trans, jump in and compare the clutch feel to yours. It may just be normal or average for the cars. (I rarely ever see manual trans cars here, it's like some cursed voodoo or something.)

Check the height of the clutch pedal at rest, I'd think it is just a little bit higher than the brake pedal.
You could unpin the pushrod from the pedal and see just how much free play is dialed into it. There must be a little free play for proper operation, and there is a spec for it in the service manual.

You might gain a little pedal height and travel by backing off the clutch pedal position switch a couple turns and lengthening the pushrod accordingly, but that really should not need to be done.

Yes, underneath the car right near the drivers side (left) axle.

A quick goggle image search came back with this pic