nordic

Hey guys! New to this forum, not getting good advice from another forum, so I figured to check here.

I've got a 2006 LX that has been making this buzzing noise from the belt drive area (presumably.) It's been doing it since I got the car in June.

I am about ready to get parts to fix a lot of things.

I already possess a new tensioner. I am going to order a new water pump and thermostat this week. I figured since I was in there, I might as well replace all that stuff.

Now, I have a few questions.

First, I have read a few horror stories about the allen bolt on the tensioner not wanting to come out, possibly breaking off in the engine, etc.

I called my local dealer, and they said the TSB was not completed on my car, so I'm going to tackle it myself.

On RockAuto, I found a Dayco belt that says it addresses the new routing diagram. What's the new diagram?

Additionally, In order to avoid breaking the bolt, what's the most common way to safely do it? I've got a friend who used to be a Honda dealer tech that will help me. I basically need him to stand there and be my beer assistant and make sure I don't freak out. I'm a good wrench, but obviously not dealer trained in that department.

The dealer cannot even find that bolt in their system, so I'm kind of at a loss in that department.

Where do I go from here?

Thanks!

ezone

OMFGLOLOLOL

90001-R1A-A00 (10x59mm)
or
96700-10055-18 (10x55mm)

Measure first? Might help to narrow the choice by using the VIN of the car

EDIT: The bulletin shows part # 04301-RNA-405 will include the bolt AND a new drive belt

Allen bolt: Loosening wasn't ever a problem for me... Only precaution is to torque it to 40 ft-lb at assembly. Always replace the bolt.

Google found this showing the new belt routing

nordic

Hmmm


I obviously don't have that bolt out yet.

He ran my vin and that TSB was never done

And mine buzzes at any RPM. Changed the PCV valve because I have heard that could cause a buzzing

ezone

Check this PDF link for tensioner bolt and drive belt update:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/yoda413/2009-02-07_211514_civic.pdf

nordic

Nice!

I'll go to the dealer tomorrow with that and order that thing!

I started last night and somehow stripped a waterpump pulley bolt, so i ordered three new ones.

nordic

I just ordered my pump, belt, and thermostat. Should be in in a few days. I'll report back when I'm doneski

ezone

Water pump bolts are only 10 ft-lb -- as per one of several related bulletins

nordic

I was hoping that I could just order a bolt from Honda, but they only sell the new belt and bolt as a pair. No bolt P/N

So, I'll return the belt to Rock Auto once I get it.

I guess having an OEM belt is not a horrible thing anyway.

So, that will be here tomorrow. I'm hoping to try and knock this stuff out this week.

Next question is, do I buy the Honda blue coolant, or can I use the red Zerex "import" stuff from the auto parts stores. I can get it for like half the price :/

ezone

I gave you the bolt part numbers in post #2. You just need to figure out the length needed if you choose to go that route.

IMO an OE belt is better than aftermarket. Most OE EPDM type belts can last 100k or more.


I'd also use the Honda coolant, it's absolutely correct without question.
Universal coolant is not, the only thing universal about it is the fact it contains antifreeze.



You positive the water pump is leaking, not the block cracked?

nordic

Yeah the parts guy said this was the best option. I'm fine with that as long as it works. This is my every day car, so I don't have much time to pull a bolt out and measure.

Anyway, I don't have any leaks on the car. The only reason I am changing the water pump is because I figured since I am in that area doing the belt and tensioner, I may as well change out the pump, too.

nordic

FInally got around to getting this done.

Went fairly smooth. I ordered all the stuff from Honda and did it. New belt tensioner, pivot bolt, water pump pulley bolts, and a few other things.

Unfortunately my AC pulley is shot (probably why my AC is not working )

I bought a DX non AC belt from ORLY and it fixed that issue. No AC right now, but the buzzing is totally gone.

Now onto the valve cover gasket