leoblueaf

....

leoblueaf

Hi,
I have an 03 civic that had the engine light pop up. Anyways, the car doesnt shift on its own until it reaches 4k rpm's, (I think thats where the regulater catches). Its like driving a manual in 1st gear the whole time. I replaced the ELD and still the engine light comes on with the same problems. I am stationed in Italy and its hard to find a dealership let alone a mechanic that can work on U.S. spec vehicles. One dealership told me all they can do is look up the ECU code (P1298) and thats it. I am starting to think the P1289 isnt the only code that is showing up but I have no other way to check, the italians were no help whatsoever! Can someone help? I took it to 3 mechanics and the Honda dealership and all of them told me they cant do anything for me.

ezone

The ELD CANNOT cause the trans to shift that late. It only has to do with alternator charging. It won't even turn on the CEL on most cars.

Is your issue that nobody is WILLING to figure out what is wrong, or that nobody is ABLE to, or even capable?
If the trans is obviously junk, it may not even need a scanner.

I have guesses about the situation, but they would just take up space here.



It might need a transmission...but there are several other things (electronics) I would want to check before I said that for sure. Or a test drive to see how bad it acts.

I'm not sure what else to tell you about it.

I personally would start with a test drive, and reading codes and data from the PCM and TCM, but I have no idea if overseas markets are compatible with what we have and use here in the US.

IOW, they may have their hands tied if their computer scan equipment can't talk to the car 100%. (the trans data is in a separate section of the computer and might use a different protocol in a different market.)

In the USA, Hondas ISIS system does not recognize Canadian VIN numbers. I bet it works the same way up there too, and since I see that happen, I bet foreign markets are the same way.
My scanner (USA) recognizes Canadian cars, but the rest of the information system does not.
I bet other markets work the same way. You wouldn't be able to get a transmission from Honda over there at all without a bunch of hassle.

Call Honda customer assistance (USA) and ask what to do?
If you are military, ship the car back to the states and get it fixed here?

I really don't know what to tell you.

HTH

leoblueaf

When I replaced the ELD I disconected the battery and left it disconnected for about 2 hours. Then connected everything back up and the car ran fine and the engine light was off...for about 30 minutes or so. Then the engine light came on again and there goes the automatic shifting. I have read that the ECU has to re-read everything about the car after being reset. If the car ran perfect after connecting the battery for those 30 minutes then it shouldnt be the trans, right? I hope its not the transmission.

Thats funny that you say call USA Honda, we did and they couldnt help us either. My next step is the o2 sensors. Any ideas would be great.

leoblueaf

Its a long story and if anyone is willing to read it I would be greatfull.

Im driving the car with no problems and then the engine light turns on. The car starts to act funny, like its not shifting correctly. I would say (if it were a manual) that the car was in 2nd trying to shift to 3rd but instead the RPMs just stay up. There was a point where I think the enging normaly shifts; (while driving) that if I let go of the gas pedal and step on it again the enging will shift for me. I was able to do that for the first coupe days or so. Then it got gradually worse, I sometimes wouldnt be able to psouedo shift the engine. I would then pull over and restart the car and BAM it worked for a couple of minutes then back to it not shifting in time or at all. All this happened before I took it to the Honda dealersip. Then they said we will try to look at it for you. All they did was tell me it came up with a code P1298 and said good luck, hope you fix it. So I did a bunch of online browsing for this P1298 and eventually bought a ELD. after installation, no worky.

It has to be something electrical right? If I disonnect the battery and reset the ECU then it runs fine for 20 minutes or so then the engine light comes on and it stops shifting.

ezone

Im driving the car with no problems and then the engine light turns on. The car starts to act funny, like its not shifting correctly. I would say (if it were a manual) that the car was in 2nd trying to shift to 3rd but instead the RPMs just stay up.

Question:
Do you have your own code reader or scantool, or are you relying on a shop to read the code?
Right now, access to some sort of code reader would be a help, even if it doesn't hold all of the answers. It would help to eliminate some of the guessing here.

Disconnecting the battery may not clear the memory, even though the CEL is no longer on. A scanner must be used to clear many codes.

Can you verify that there is absolutely nothing in the computer memory before you drive it?
And that the P1298 really is the only thing that is in memory when the light comes on.
This might entail driving with the tool connected until it acts up.

Because I'm thinking there is something else going on.

I have never witnessed the P1298 cause a drivability issue, nor have I seen it turn on the check engine light. I have always seen some other code cause the light to come on.

I see the P1298 code rather often, because I don't live in an emissions testing area. Many people ignore the code because it doesn't cause any problem that is noticed, idiot light or otherwise.




It has to be something electrical right?

Sure could be, but may not necessarily be. If the computer sees certain faults, it can revert to fail-safe (limp-in, FMEM) programming, meaning it may default to one single gear if that is what the engineers programmed into it for that particular fault.

A key cycle can reset the mode back to normal until the computer sees a fault again.

Right now this is speculation though, until someone can figure out what is really going on with it.


Not all transmission problems can be detected by the computer.


If I disonnect the battery and reset the ECU then it runs fine for 20 minutes or so then the engine light comes on and it stops shifting.

Does the D light flash when this happens?

It would be interesting to see if your code reader (assuming you have one) can actually read transmission codes, before deciding that there are really no trans codes.


I have read that the ECU has to re-read everything about the car after being reset.

To a certain extent. The car will run and drive just fine right off the bat, if everything else is "right".To run on-board monitors for the emissions testing takes some time, but the car will drive normally during that time.

Unless/until a problem is detected. Then FMEM strategy kicks in if necessary (failure mode effects management).



If the car ran perfect after connecting the battery for those 30 minutes then it shouldnt be the trans, right? I hope its not the transmission.

Can't say that for sure. Since shifting is obviously affected, it has SOMETHING to do with the trans: controls, speed sensors, pressure switches, something internal, SOMEthing is happening....Hard to tell without first-hand information.

My next step is the o2 sensors. Any ideas would be great

Right now, those would be a waste of time and money.

I don't solve problems by firing the parts cannon.
But it is extremely difficult to solve problems without sufficient information, whatever it may be.

Thats funny that you say call USA Honda, we did and they couldnt help us either.

What DID they have to say? You have to ship the car back to the US in order to do anything?

Can the military ship over a dealer level scantool setup through government channels? (laptop/HDS/MVCI, or for a car that old, a PGM tester would probably suffice)

palsana

finally today, the car has given up on me? The transmisssion did not want to Shift, despite my trying my very best & probably waiting hours before re-starting my car i was unable to move the car when giving acceleration!!!!...


having filled up radiator with coolant helped a little, but not enough to make it move!!!!!!..
the code p0730 is what shift gear seems to be..The reverse gear worked just fine. no problems there.


Any suggestions?

palsana

its a 03 civic ex 4 dr with 175,000 miles & everyonoe points to the tranny. could it be anything else.

ezone

Dude, you have jumped in the middle of like 50 ancient threads now with all sorts of questions about your own car.
It needs a head gasket, an IAC, some other junk......and now it needs a transmission. Yes, it needs a transmission. Overhaul or replacement.
TSB 04-036 explains it, and explains the other update to go with that..

It might be time for you to just look for another car. Might I suggest a nice Corolla or Neon?

palsana

My Baby Love O my baby love (03 HONDA CIVIC EX) is just not worth letting go!!!!!! The best thing about it is its LOOKS &/ OR MPG. all previous ownerships of honda have been crashed/towed away/ but never repaired.
(1993 Honda Civic DX/1981 Honda Civic)...lol now 03 civic ex. Traditions DIE HARD!!!!!!

I only wish the repairs could be done by me!!!!!!..

I promise i never will leave you all JUST YET!!!!!!
budgeting $1k for it. hoping to get 30k miles upon spending 1k.

feasible yes, smart thing to do ????hmmmmm!!!!!!!!...cant tell.

ezone

Better figure out how much money it is REALLY going to take.
You might want to get a grip.
Cheap sounding estimates will be a LIE.


I think $1k might cover the head gasket job, if it needs one.
I haven't checked lately, but I'd guess at $3k for a trans.

YMMV.

palsana

Believe me i am always on the cheap & that has consequences to it.
I had 99,997 mi with a Honda Dealership provided warranty from the dealership, and the warranty company went BANKRUPT ON me at the DEALERSHIP DOOR.
So I anticipate repeated expenses to my car. That last transmission rebuilt was in August 2008 for $1050 with 102 156 mi on it & lasted me until 2011 upto 159k mi when i had another rebuilt transmission work done for little under $1000 which today with 175,600 mi needs another rebuilt transmission.
The anticipated cost is again under $1000. This time, i may actually just replace with a used transmission with under 80k mi & shopping around i have found prices between $500-$650 (ASSUMING YOU RETURN CORE BACK TO THE SELLER) with $250-350 in labor. So maybe little under 900 & its doable.
Now to overheating/headGasket
The worst that i am told to have a headGasket work done is $800/. Thats assuming that the HG Kit is bought by the mechanic (Retail $200) and he surfaces/checks out all parts going into the HG (seals, valves, whatever) & not exactly have to buy a new head at all. As i have always been saying not exactly convinced abt the HG being bad yet!!!!!..Surfacing here (South TX) costs between $50-80 and can go for as low as #25 if you bring the head in yourself.

After finishing all these the following parts/services need to be completed.
Cleaning Throttle Body/IAC valve/MapSensor/EGR valve
Replacing Fuel Filter/Strainer/cleaning Fuel Regulator area
Install upstream/downstream Oxygen Sensors/Thermostat.
Total estimated value to do this work : $80-$100 before parts

Recent work already completed was for Lower Control Arms/Bushings ($300) parts & labor. The car needs 4 new tires at $350.

But definitely taking it one thing at a time. Researching very thorughly inside of HONDA CIVIC FORUMS.

REACHING A MILESTONE OF 200K MI WITH THIS CAR IS NOT ONLY SO VERY IMPORTANT I HAVE NOT EVER HAD THE PLEASURE OF EXCEEDING 120K MI EVER FOR ALL HONDA CIVICS I EVER OWNED FOR MY 20 YEARS IN USA.

so i am definitely working towards that!!!!!!!..And only imagining above 200k gives me goosebumps!!!!!!...that very feeling of accomplishment with my car. God bless me achieveing that..

In old days, HONDA advertised cars relating to dogs ..the moral was "HONDA ARE AS LOYAL/FAITHFUL AS DOGS ".....LOL

palsana

other than oil changes tire changes & twice in maybe 8 years a full service tune up i have done absolutely nothing like the 30/60/90/120 mi maintenance work ever. People i know take their cars into the dealership and have their regular maintenances done..i dont ever remember doing all of that...I had timing belt changed at 90k and its also becoming due now that i have 175k on it. Maybe regular tire rotation/balancing/wheel alignments also but fuel injector cleaning work or filter fuel changes or radiator/radiatorcap/thermostat/a/c compressor changes freon fill ups nothing quite like all it..
I have 175k mi already on it even after just doing basics... what is not to love about honda civics..(especially 7th Gen).,,,lol


Taking it all very slowly to reach a GOAL!!!!!!!!!!.....200k mi....lol

ezone

I wonder if the original trans would have lasted a lot longer if it had regular services done.

palsana

At 99997 if warranty would cover it yes it would have lasted becoz then i would get a whole new OEM transmission. but alas..

Here's an ad for HG
craigslist > services offered > automotive services please flag with care: [?]

miscategorized
prohibited
spam/overpost
best of craigslist


Head gasket jobs-most cars 475 (North )


Date: 2012-06-19, 11:44AM CDT
Reply to: 5tqvj-3087592512@serv.craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]
Most car head gasket jobs done 475 must purchase gasket set.
8327900446 txt for inquiries.

• Location: North
• it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

PostingID: 3087592512

ezone

Are you familiar with the phrase "You get what you pay for."?
How about "If you think hiring a professional is expensive, try hiring an amateur."


Seems to me that a reputable mechanic, one that would stand behind their work, one that has a reputation to think about, one that would make it right if something goes wrong, would not need to advertise on Craigslist. They would have a real shop, have real insurance, pay real taxes, and all that neat stuff that makes a business real.

I wouldn't hire from CL. But it is your car, and your hard earned money.



Why don't you ask the Craigslist Community (auto forum) what they think of this idea and the ad:

https://forums.craigslist.org/?forumID=5&areaID=23

palsana

i try my best to find shops from craigslist that only work with transmissions. first re-built was a professional transmission shop recommended by lots of friends & interviewed by mechanic to confirm it will be great price & excellent work with warranty (1 yr/12k) mi. guess what 15k mi later he dont wanna answer my calls & want diagnostic fee of $ 300 to open tranny to check it out. yes u get what u pay for whether its friends recommending or mechanics recommending. dealership wants $2750 for a new tranny w ith used parts.
the 2nd tranny mechanic offered $800 to repair it & after agreeing to in writing he came back with a $200 parts & labor expense upon opening up the tranny & had to pay it.

you recommend to me ezone who is it that i should look for in tranny repair for the next 26010 mi(so its 200k) on my baby love car. lol. you know 3 yr/36k mi warranty is also available for a mere $375 additional dollars.

ezone

Sounds like you have been screwed a few times by fly-by-night hacks on CL, yet you still want to use that method?
It is often difficult for the average person to differentiate between a hack and a professional.

WTF does that mean?

Factory reman should have 3/36 warranty when done by the dealer.

A Jasper reman may have a variable warranty depending on how much you are willing to pay. I personally have not seen good luck with the very few Jasper units we have done in the shop here, but they have a nationwide warranty.

H&A Trans, I have heard good things about but never used them myself. http://www.hnatrans.com/

If you are going to use a trans shop, use a real trans shop.
Find one that is a member of ATRA, http://www.atra.com/ research how the warranty works through that organization (3/50). http://www.atra.com/goldenrule?transmission_warranty


Regardless of the warranty, a GOOD rebuild should easily go another 100,000 miles (IMO) IF it is taken care of. That means changing trans fluid on a regular basis, and not completely ignoring it like you did on the original trans.

HTH

palsana

Regardless of the warranty, a GOOD rebuild should easily go another 100,000 miles (IMO) IF it is taken care of. That means changing trans fluid on a regular basis, and not completely ignoring it like you did on the original trans.

Ezone It was always explained to me that once its a re-built do not change the trans-fluid!!!!!!..Do not flush it, do not drain/fill with anything but the most recommended Tranny Fluid (Honda OEM tranny fluid). Yes, i have had a Tranny Drain/Fluid done with OEM honda TransFluid upon 13,000 mi of usage. (at my first Tranny Re-built). You have shocked me with what you are suggesting!!!!!
This is only true when a RE-BUILT IS DONE.
Maybe its why i have so many lifetime re-builts...lol


WTF does that mean?
This is a real Honda Dealership explaining to me that to save $$$ that they will not buy new OEM parts but use already used parts only on those parts that are not broken & use it for re-built tranny. and that would be lower cost than replacing a brand new TRANNY. They would charge me what i got a quote for? No kidding..U THINK EZONE, wtf raised to INFINITY is JUST ABOUT right....lol

ezone

It was always explained to me that once its a re-built do not change the trans-fluid!!!!!!.

What moron said that?

Apply the same logic to an engine: After you ruin an engine because you didn't ever change the oil, you have it replaced.
Now they tell you to never change the oil on your replacement engine.

Guess what happens about 20,000 miles later....
The engine blows up again.
Now they get more of your money to replace it again.

Regular oil changes would have kept that engine alive for a long time, but you listened to someone that stands to profit from ignorance.


.Do not flush it, do not drain/fill with anything but the most recommended Tranny Fluid (Honda OEM tranny fluid). Yes, i have had a Tranny Drain/Fluid done with OEM honda TransFluid upon 13,000 mi of usage. (at my first Tranny Re-built).

I think we have a language barrier here. First you said you never did any maintenance nor changed trans fluid, now you are saying you did?

Drain and fill is the only method approved by Honda.
A "flush" is considered to be multiple drain and fills using about a case of fluid.
Flushing with a machine and chemicals is "strongly discouraged" by Honda.
Machine flushes are very popular with the JizzyLube places.
Some (many) dealers may not follow the manufacturers published guidelines about MANY things, and you need to know to not allow them to do these things. They prey on customers that don't know any better.



You have shocked me with what you are suggesting!!!!!
This is only true when a RE-BUILT IS DONE.
Maybe its why i have so many lifetime re-builts...lol

Again: Who is going to get your money after you don't take care of your car?


This is a real Honda Dealership explaining to me that to save $$$ that they will not buy new OEM parts but use already used parts only on those parts that are not broken & use it for re-built tranny. and that would be lower cost than replacing a brand new TRANNY. They would charge me what i got a quote for? No kidding..U THINK EZONE, wtf raised to INFINITY is JUST ABOUT right....lol[/quote]


Ok, either you didn't understand them, or I can't understand you.

There are 2 ways they can go about fixing your transmission: Rebuild your trans using whatever parts and methods they have, or replace it with a reman unit from Honda.

If the dealer overhauls your old transmission, your only warranty will be at their shop. You are sort of stuck with them.
A factory reman trans will be covered by the warranty at any dealership in the country for the next 3 years/36,000 miles.

At the shop I work in, we do not rebuild them ourselves. It isn't even an option for me.
We only replace them with reman units from Honda. Honda (corporate) has a location that does transmission rebuilds for the entire country. Think of 50,000 transmissions that have already been overhauled and are all ready to be bolted in to Honda cars trucks and vans. We order one, it comes on the truck the next morning. Remove your broken transmission, install this fresh reman, and you are rolling again in a timely manner. Usually we have the job done the day after we get the car.
Your old broken trans then gets sent to that location to get overhauled and readied for someone else to use.


Que?

palsana

I can believe that ENGINES do need regular oil changes. I cant say the same about TRANNY, once its re-built, you will find a lot of mechanics recommending NOT changing fluid in their transmission. the recommendation is to add additive, but not exactly change fluids. Isnt Honda willing to stand by its recommendation if a HONDA TRANS fluid was used upon Re-built. ( idid not use honda in one of my re-builts thats for sure). dont know whic one. The flush thing i agree with you on. But like change tranny fluid i am still in disagreement on it. You need a real WORLD EXPERIENCE WITH MECHANICS WHO DEFINITELY RECOMMEND NOT TO CHANGE FLUIDS. at least I know some good ones who wouldnt recommend at any mileage points!!!!!....thats what i stand by and believe. The car upon changing fluids can show signs of not properly falling into gear by changing fluids &/or slipping in its early days of changed transmission fluid. Especially true if the old fluid used & new fluid in it are so very different (try using Autozone Trans Fluid once & then after 30k mi use Valvoline Max Derc fluid) It takes a considerable while before everything comes back normal..this is just how it was always explained to me.

Isnt $2k+ still too much for a re-built after using existing tranny parts? i atleast think so?

ezone

, you will find a lot of mechanics recommending NOT changing fluid in their transmission.

No, *I* will not find any.




Bla bla bla



--->filter kicked in<---

I think the rest of this post does not warrant any more response from me.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

well i changed my trans fluid every 10k and still had problems at 50k. sometimes no amount of fluid changes will fix bad parts. but not doing fluid changes certainly would put all odds against you. mechanics who say you should not change the fluid are talking about very old and neglected autos where they are pretty much trashed already and the fluid with junk in it is the only thing keeping it working. in which case yes, new fluid would be a disaster. but the trans is on its way out already. just a matter of time.