fcosorio

So i dont know much about cars but my new automatic honda civic is working weird. It berealy has a 1000 miles on.When its really cold outside, especially early in the mornings and late at night, the car feels like it doesnt want to start. it shakes. I put in the key and try to start the engine and it sounds like the car doesnt want to start, as if it's forcing it...I dont know if thats normal or not on honda civics because of the seize of the engine but i know that new cars are not supposed to do that. I mean, besides that, the car runs great. the engine feels awesome, etc. its just the starting and its been happening a few times since i got it. Like i said it, happens when its really cold. Im not even sure because once it wasnt even called outside and it also happened but the car for some reasong was foggy in the inside.

In more or less. I already took my car to the shop get it checked out and they said the car has nothing wrong...so i dont know whats going on. so what do you guys think it might be? you know how it takes like 1 or 2 seconds for the car to start? well when i first do in the morning it takes like 4 or 5..like the car is forcing it or pushing hard to start...alsmot it seems like it's not about to..however, after it does, the car runs great and sounds fine and when i try to start it over again, it does perfectly...please let me know what you think, i dont know what to do and i dont want to deal with this issues on a new car...thanks

03civichatch

when you say shop are you referring to the dealer?? if not take it back to the dealer

GreenMachineDX

Take it back and tell em u need a new car...

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yeah it still has warranty, i used to have the same problem with my car, but thankfully it hasnt happened in a long time. might try replacing the plugs with some ngk v-powers, theyre only $2 each and you need 4. also try leaving the car in ON position for at least a few seconds (and up to 20 seconds) before cranking the engine. that may help too. the newer civics all have immobilizer anti-theft system and it takes a second for the key coding to activate the fuel pump.

fcosorio

Yes, i meant dealer. I took it to the dealer and they said they checked every little single part of the car and there was nothing wrong with it. to me the car doesnt sound like that, and its brand new

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Try this... When you get in turn the key only to position II, you will hear a buzzing noise from the rear and a relay click when the buzzing stops. Once the noise stops then twist the key to the start position.

Try this method for a while, I have gotten in the habit now of doing this and the car never fails to start every time when waiting.

It give the fuel pump time to get pressure to the front.

mizzee

I'm having the same problem with my new 2010 Honda civic. I turn the key to the II position and leave it there for about two to three seconds and then turn it to the on position, it sounds like it's going to start, but doesn't. Then I try it a second time and it does. It also sounds like its struggling to start and sometimes when it's on it shakes a bit... I'm soo frustrated that my new car is not working like it supposed to =(. What could it be?

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Turns out this is happening to a lot of 8th gen owners (including me as I now own a 2010) It has only occured once on mine at about 500 miles. Every other start has been been perfect. Another thing I have noticed is my idle is very rough at times cold or hot it makes no difference.

Make sure to document it with the service department.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

is the green key light flashing on the dash when you try to start it?

acatsblue

the green light sometimes flashes on mine. it also makes a fizzling sound and then it won't actually turn over, and then i pull the key out, try again and then sometimes it just won't complete, but eventually it starts. happened a few times. got the car in august. haven't had it a full two months what should i do?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

I would suggest taking it back to the dealer and saying wth is wrong with it

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

if the green key is flashing when the car is trying to start, its a problem with the immobilizer security system not recognizing your key coding. make sure you only have a single key on your chain when starting, and other electronic device like key card and alarm may also cause interference. try to just have a single honda key on the chain and use that for a while. if it solves the problem, then you know something else on the chain is causing it. if it still doesnt start, its an immobilizer problem and dealer needs to fix under warranty.

acatsblue

Thanks for your help! the only keys that I have on my key chain are: 1) 2010 civic key, 2) house key, 3) mailbox key, and a 92 honda accord key. Do you think my 92 honda key is interacting with it, which is why it's acting up sometimes?

I told the dealer about the car not starting/giving weird starts and he said to just leave it in position 2 for a bit, that i shouldn't be experiencing these problems :S

Please advise. I'll see if I can take it in this weekend.

Thanks so much!

acatsblue

also, when i'm driving in the day, sometimes i notice the blue light, the one that comes on when the high beams are on, but i have not activated the high beams... any idea why this blue light comes on too?

Sorry to seem so silly first car, and dad's not helping me much with it and my boyfriend's more than an hour away so i can't even get him to check it out.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

^^^ He is talking about leaving the key at II until the fuel pump stops before cranking over the engine. It does works well for 1st attempt starting.

The dimly lit high beam indicator is normal when the DRLs are operating.

ottotheclown

I did this before, I have an 09. Changed from PP that is Pennzoil Platinum to Edge. Problem started. Changed back problem gone. Have used PP for 15,000 or so miles switched just to see. Turns out Edge ran smooth when the car started. Example of do not fix it when working. Try an oil change cannot hurt unless Edge.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

PP is actually really good oil, surprised you wanted to switch after that.

thegraystandard

glad i found this thread because the same thing started happening to me a couple days ago as well. It was cold out and my car didnt wanna start as well. def going to try some of these ideas though. I already documented it with the dealer.

Michelle82

The issue with the car not starting when you crank it and it's either weak starting or not starting on the first few tries is likely the immobilizer in the security system causing the fuel pump to not get enough power. TAKE it to the dealer and hold Honda accountable. This is happening to me on a brand new 2011 and it's the biggest crap I've ever had to deal with.

ichabod44

I'm having the same issues w/ my 2010 Honda Civic! It's only on the first few attempts on "colder" mornings. I first took it to the dealership and they said the battery and torque were both fine. They said to bring it back in if it had happened again. They also recommended turning the key on but not starting it for a few seconds. I did this, but after it reoccured a few more times I took it back in. They tested the battery again and said it was fine. They then told me that it's normal to take up to 15 seconds for it to start. Are you serious? I then asked them what they would think if they heard a new car trying that hard to start for 15 seconds? You would think it's a "hunk of junk"! What should I do? I feel like they don't even aknowledge that it has a "warranty". That or they're too lazy to really take the time to figure it out...

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

I suggest leaving the key at II until the buzzing in the rear from the fuel pump stops, then crank the engine over.

dcbaudio

I had something similar happen to me, but mine would even hold idle. it happened after i did my regular air filter check, along with oil and trans fluids. the car started, then died, and wouldn't restart. then a removed and replaced the air box, and it ran-for about a mile. after checking electrical conections and such, it fired up and got me home (about 8 miles). once there, it died again.

it had all the markers of a bad MAF, a friend sujested something funny, sharply (not too hard) tap the top of the MAF a couple of times. i tried that, it fired right up... so i drove over to the dearler to have it looked at.

Dealers suck (we knew this- but lets add some fuel to it). they kept it over night, called the next day and said they couldn't find anything. i told them at drop of- it was an intermitant problem, the remedy applied (strikes), and what i thought was failing. when i looked at the paper work i had to sign i was shocked...
checked cutomer complaint and conducted multipoint inspection 5 MIN
checked and set tire preasures 1 MIN
no issues found???????
they spent a wopping 6 minutes looking at my car, now that's none service if i have ever heard of it.

summary, since tapping the MAF... i have not had any repeats, i don't know if this is a different problem, but a slow shuddery idle and poor throtle response (or no throtle response) often is MAF related....try the tapping thing.... it might just help.

Albertc

Hi guys. I'm considering buying a 2011 civic MT. Does this starting problem affect both AT and MT?

Thanks
Albert

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Hey Albertc,
I don't think anyone on this forum currently has a 2011, so it's very hard to say.

CourtneysSweets

Seriously? I have been in the dark this whole time.
I have had the 2009 Honda Civic LX-S for about 2 years and this has been happening since the first week of purchase. NOT to mention I needed a whole new strut assembly the first month. I diagnosed that myself.. It seems like the Honda techs are clueless/don't care. I am sick of having the fear that one day my car won't start at all.

What can be done? I left my car at the dealership for a WEEK. I actually used my husband's car for the week - hoped they'd figure this out. They said they can't fix something they don't hear.. So long story short they came up with nothing and it started fine for them. Odd because the next day I started in AM failed initial start also failed initial start as I left for work which was 5 hour time frame of sitting. I just want to know what can be done. I've had it there so many times for this issue.. I didn't know it was KNOWN {common} issue. Just this past month I was contemplating trading in my "new" car for a used because at this point, WTH? My husband has the 2011 Accord and he leased. I should have done the same.. I financed :-(

MindBomber

Does this happen consistently, every single morning?

CourtneysSweets

No it doesn't happen every day which is the problem of "finding out the issue".
It did however happen Friday morning, and then again in the afternoon. Yesterday it was fine. It's not a cold weather thing, as I've noticed in the summer as well. Electrical and battery test out fine. Not sure about the immobilizer as they said there's no way to check for that. I didn't realize until now that it could be an issues so I was told to make sure when it starts that the green key icon is there. I didn't pay attention Friday. :-(

MindBomber

It could be a bad ground connection if it's happening intermittently; make sure the battery terminals are clean and the connections tight, then look at the ground wires and make sure all those connections are tight. It could be something really simple, but watch for the immobilizer light when it doesn't start.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Sounds to me like a starter solonoid problem. I would have that checked and replaced.
Otherwise, if not that, it's going to be loose wiring/faulty fuse

Electricity is pretty simple:
If the electricity doesnt flow, it won't work

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

2006+ civics have SERIOUS issues with the immobilizer security system. sometimes a new computer reflash with a different program will fix it, other times the whole unit needs to be replaced. problem is the unit sometimes fails to recognize the signal from the ignition key and shuts off the fuel pump. its supposed to be a security feature but all it does is cause problems and the car is still easy to steal. i would love to remove mine completely, but it is tied into all sorts of systems and would be a wiring nightmare trying to bypass it. if there is a green key icon blinking on the dash when the car doesn't start, its the immobilizer to blame.