D17A2 Engine Parts...
D17A2 Engine Parts...
The motor blew up in my car. I replaced the motor, and then sold the car. I still have the old motor and all of the parts, sensors, and what not. You tell me what you want and I will get you the part for a resonable price. Just so you know the motor ran fine before it blew up. There is a sensor on the throttle body that was bad on the new motor, so I replaced it with the one from the old motor.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
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Re: D17A2 Engine Parts...
Just so you know the motor ran fine before it blew up.
i might want your crank and crank bearings. i will let you know once i find out the problem w/ my motor.
Re: D17A2 Engine Parts...
I have the fuel rail, and the intake. I also have the head. It looks fine to me. The pistons did not slap it. I have all of the sensors, the only one that I know is bad is the IAC. All the rest are fine. I have the wiring harness as well.
Last edited by _SKIN_; May 7, 2007 at 01:03 PM.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 










Re: D17A2 Engine Parts...
See pics below... Both holes are only in one cylinder. One on one side of the block and another on the other side. The oil rail in the bottom end is all smashed too. The arm that holds that piston just ripped like a piece of paper.
I have the fuel rail, and the intake. I also have the head. It looks fine to me. The pistons did not slap it. I have all of the sensors, the only one that I know is bad is the IAC. All the rest are fine. I have the wiring harness as well.
I have the fuel rail, and the intake. I also have the head. It looks fine to me. The pistons did not slap it. I have all of the sensors, the only one that I know is bad is the IAC. All the rest are fine. I have the wiring harness as well.
Boiler's translation: The entire bottom end of the motor is a paperweight. While its highly unlikely that "nothing" happened to the head, it is possible that the head is in salvagable condition, but forget about the bottom end.
Also, the caps have to match the block... you gotta buy them together. The caps dont have size stamps on them, only the block does, and they MUST match or you'll have to align hone the crank journals. While doable it creates an unnecessary headache and a major pain in the *** when it comes to sizing the bearings when its done (and the fairly expensive job of doing the machining).
Last edited by Boilermaker1; May 10, 2007 at 12:10 AM.
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