Dalton

i just bought a 2001 civic. none of the windows or electric locks worked. the guy said the main power window switch shorted so he unplugged it to keep from messing anything else up. you could clearly see on the board where it got hot and melted. well i replaced the main power window and now the drivers window and the passenger rear work. but the passenger front and the driver rear windows wont move. any advice one what to check to get them working? and the locks? any ideas? thanks

lazlong

Sounds like a short that not only shorted the switch but some wires OR, the new switch is bad.

1. Check the window switch on each door. Do the windows work with the switch on that door? I doubt it but, worth a try.

2. Check for bad wires/connections at the master switch and in the wire boot between the door hinges.

3. Pull the door panel off and disconnect the window motor connector. For passenger front: check for voltage at the blue/red and blue/white wires when you press the master window switch for that window. For the driver rear: brown/white and brown wires. If your not getting voltage, disconnect the master switch connector and test those wires for continuity. No continuity= bad wires/connections, continuity= bad master switch

*Never test a live circuit for continuity*
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Do those tests for the windows and post back. We'll deal with the locks after that.

ezone

On the drivers rear window, is that door used a lot? I see them with broken wires in the harness where it passes through between the door and body. Stops the rear window from working, and I suppose it could cause a short if broken wires touched.

Dalton

How would I check for continuity? Same as checking for voltage? This is the second new master switch that I tryed. Im not sure If it got used a lot . I bought the car yesterday

ezone

Start with a wiring diagram, some tools, a volt/ohm meter, and a working knowledge of electricity.

Test, don't guess.



IIRC, the first wire in the door harness to break is a large ground for the window. Others follow soon after that.
Door harness is dirt cheap compared to trying to patch and splice wires, if that turns out to be one of the problems.

lazlong

Set the multi-meter to ohms. With both connectors disconnected (master and motor), put one lead to the wire your testing at one connector and the other lead on the same wire at the other connector.

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