Paint Dampener??
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Paint Dampener??
okay so i was curious to know if anyone has had experience with this paint dampening material... does it work? is it worth it, or should i just buy dampening material like B-Quiet? here are some links...
http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-b....cgi?pg=2&p=ps
http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-b....cgi?pg=2&p=ps
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Do not get FatMat. It is no better than Peel & Seal, since it is Peel & Seal. It is a low quality asphalt mat with no viscoelastic properties. It is extremely prone to melting and/or falling off. As an added bonus, asphalt leaches toxic fumes into the air. NEVER use asphalt inside a car.
The B-Quiet Ultimate is decent stuff, but not as good as Dynamat Xtreme. They also sell an asphalt version which should be held against them. Second Skin and Cascade sell the highest quality butyl mats, followed by DynamatXtreme, then RAAMmat THEN B-Quiet and after them, all of the thin pretenders like eDead, Sound Destroyer, etc. What determines quality and effectiveness is the quality of the adhesive layer andthe thickness of the foil - the thicker the better.
Liquids work well if you have more time to install them. They can be sprayed or brushed on, so the actual application can be easier than with the mats. You need to get them on as thick as the mats - around 2 mm is generally ideal, so expect 3-5 coats, with drying time in between. It can take a while. Second Skin, Cascade and Lizard Skin all make good quality liquids. xpect a gallon to cover about 20 square feet at the thickness you need.
The B-Quiet Ultimate is decent stuff, but not as good as Dynamat Xtreme. They also sell an asphalt version which should be held against them. Second Skin and Cascade sell the highest quality butyl mats, followed by DynamatXtreme, then RAAMmat THEN B-Quiet and after them, all of the thin pretenders like eDead, Sound Destroyer, etc. What determines quality and effectiveness is the quality of the adhesive layer andthe thickness of the foil - the thicker the better.
Liquids work well if you have more time to install them. They can be sprayed or brushed on, so the actual application can be easier than with the mats. You need to get them on as thick as the mats - around 2 mm is generally ideal, so expect 3-5 coats, with drying time in between. It can take a while. Second Skin, Cascade and Lizard Skin all make good quality liquids. xpect a gallon to cover about 20 square feet at the thickness you need.
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so then you would recommend the paint if i have the time? I don't want to spend like 300 bucks to do my car... if i spend that kind of money my damn car better sound like a tomb when i close that door... my car has about 55 square feet... but i want to put mats on the doors not just paint... i'll paint the rest of the car... but i definitely want mats on the doors that's where i get rattles from... 2 door hatch... it's the only place i can get rattles... well i guess if the paint doesn't work i can always just buy the mats and place them over the paint... for added dampening... i don't like dynamat because it's so expensive... i don't just plan on doing like a door, i'm doing the whole car, i'm looking for a cheap alternative but no asphalt... it gets to be 115 in the summers here and i don't want asphalt melting all over the place....
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so then you would recommend the paint if i have the time? I don't want to spend like 300 bucks to do my car... if i spend that kind of money my damn car better sound like a tomb when i close that door... my car has about 55 square feet... but i want to put mats on the doors not just paint... i'll paint the rest of the car... but i definitely want mats on the doors that's where i get rattles from... 2 door hatch... it's the only place i can get rattles... well i guess if the paint doesn't work i can always just buy the mats and place them over the paint... for added dampening... i don't like dynamat because it's so expensive... i don't just plan on doing like a door, i'm doing the whole car, i'm looking for a cheap alternative but no asphalt... it gets to be 115 in the summers here and i don't want asphalt melting all over the place....
A really important important part of deadening is using some sort of closed cell foam over the top of the vibration damper you choose. It is relatively inexpensive, light and the two together work much better than eiter one alone. For rattles, you really want to diagnose the sources BEFORE you deaden. Deadening will reduce the energy driving the rattle, but anywhere you have to solid objects that can move against each other, you will still get rattles. Get in there with some silicone caulk, foam tape, etc, before youeven start deadening.
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Actually, the best approach is liquid over mat - but over the top for most people. You can generally save some money using liquid, if you have the time. You can also sometimes save big money if you live near one of the companies selling this stuff - it's heavy as hell and shipping adds up fast.
A really important important part of deadening is using some sort of closed cell foam over the top of the vibration damper you choose. It is relatively inexpensive, light and the two together work much better than eiter one alone. For rattles, you really want to diagnose the sources BEFORE you deaden. Deadening will reduce the energy driving the rattle, but anywhere you have to solid objects that can move against each other, you will still get rattles. Get in there with some silicone caulk, foam tape, etc, before youeven start deadening.
A really important important part of deadening is using some sort of closed cell foam over the top of the vibration damper you choose. It is relatively inexpensive, light and the two together work much better than eiter one alone. For rattles, you really want to diagnose the sources BEFORE you deaden. Deadening will reduce the energy driving the rattle, but anywhere you have to solid objects that can move against each other, you will still get rattles. Get in there with some silicone caulk, foam tape, etc, before youeven start deadening.
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well in my car it's mainly the wheel wells in the back... it's an 86 hatchback and that's really the only problem area... the firewall, the doors and the wheel wells are the only real areas that cause any sort of road noise... maybe a little from the ceiling because of the moon roof... other than that i don't see a problem anywhere else... so to go about this would i paint the entire interior? or just the parts i need to deaden? and then after that do i place the foam on top of just teh deadened area or everywhere? this is an extensive project i plan on doing til the end of summer... so when summer starts to finish i'm closing this project and moving on to the next which is the interior carpetting and seats etc....
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