2001 A/C clutch problem

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Old 05-20-2012
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Question 2001 A/C clutch problem

Bought an 01 ex 150,000 on it runs great tranny fluid bright red no leaks bearing good etc.. The only retarded thing i did was not look closer and now found out that there's no belt going to the a.c. comp. duh. yeah i threw it on prior to buying it and the air seemed to blow a tad cold assuming it just needed a charge. So my questions are 1. If I manipulate the pulley it should spin right? Well it doesn't. 2. The compressors rarely go bad so if I pop the drivers side wheel off and grab the clutch w/ my hand I should be able move it right ?.
(PLEASE BEAR w/ me I searched the forum but no answers)
3. If the clutch is bad can it be replaced? I've seen replacements on Flea Bay
4. If the system has remained closed can it be contaminated?
5. If I replace the comp w/ new clutch and dryer what's the best way to keep outside from air from contaminating the new dryer?
6. once I get the new comp put in, lines and etc and all is snug just take it to a shop and have it vacuumed and charged?
7. If i can get the clutch off for a replacement w/o opening the system can it be charged or is the system contaminated already? Any input would be appreciated Thanks to all in advance trying to save $$
Old 05-20-2012
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Re: 2001 A/C clutch problem

This is not from a Honda.


1. If I manipulate the pulley it should spin right? Well it doesn't.


Pulley should spin freely. It has to spin the entire time the engine runs. It has its own bearing that could be bad.


2. The compressors rarely go bad so if I pop the drivers side wheel off and grab the clutch w/ my hand I should be able move it right ?.


Uh oh....
Not if it is seized. If you can't spin the clutch plate by hand, the usual assumption is that the compressor is locked up.

3. If the clutch is bad can it be replaced?

Yes, but the compressor must be good first.



4. If the system has remained closed can it be contaminated?


Absolutely.
Compressor locked up why? On a Civic, it is usually due to a lack of oil in the system. System leaks that allow oil to be lost can do it. Recharging lost freon without replenishing the lost oil can do it.
A compressor without sufficient lubrication will grind itself to death. Compressor overheat melts teflon seals and sends residue into the condensor to stick and clog the system.
When a compressor does this, you can find anything from light gray powder to actual metal chunks sent into the rest of the system.
Google: Ford Black Death. http://www.aircondition.com/dsmobileac/blackdeath.html

People that can't be bothered to use correct materials and procedures contaminate the system too. ANY freon-like substance that is not actual R-134a is a contaminant. Stop leak is a contaminant.
Some body shops are notorious for using contaminated refrigerant here.


5. If I replace the comp w/ new clutch and dryer what's the best way to keep outside from air from contaminating the new dryer?


During normal service, cap all open lines.
In this case, you may be replacing it though.
Evacuate the system thoroughly with an AC vacuum pump before recharging.

6. once I get the new comp put in, lines and etc and all is snug just take it to a shop and have it vacuumed and charged?


Yes. Don't forget the proper amount of PAG oil as you assemble your work.
Aftermarket reman compressors normally don't come with oil. Factory compressors do come with oil, enough for the entire system. Either way, the proper oil level must be addressed.


7. If i can get the clutch off for a replacement w/o opening the system can it be charged or is the system contaminated already?

IF you can get the clutch and pulley off and on without having to take the hoses off of the compressor, then it wouldn't need recharged. If there isn't room to do it with the compressor in the car, then obviously, it would need its freon recovered, then an evacuate and recharge after completing the work. It sounds like you don't need to worry about this though. You have a locked up compressor.


The only way to tell if the system is contaminated with compressor debris is to open it up.
Go to the shop and have the freon recovered into a machine before you open it up...
Open the discharge pipe out of the compressor, inspect for debris, dark residue, metal flakes, or anything else that isn't clean and shiny.

If it shows signs of contamination, then you have to go down the line and determine just how far the contamination went through the system. You don't want the stuff to ruin your new compressor, or continue to clog up the AC system.
Quite often, the entire system needs replaced in order to make a repair that can be guaranteed. Not cheap.
There is a bulletin for CRVs (03?) that has info about checking for contamination and debris. (I can't log in to the Honda site at the moment to find it.)

Replace every O ring seal on every fitting you touch. Use the proper O rings designed for use in an AC system. Oil the O rings with PAG oil before assembly so they don't tear.

HTH
Old 05-20-2012
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Re: 2001 A/C clutch problem

Wow thanks a lot !! awesome info. Thanks for the quick reply. Sucks though if the comp is locked up. Look like i'll be sweating my azz off for a while. Thanks for the help once again Ezone.
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