Honda civic racing set up
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Honda civic racing set up
Ok... I need help and know that to get the best answers ask those who drive and work on their own cars. I drive a 93 honda civic dx 4 door sedan in a racing series called Hornets. This a bare bones division using 4 cylinder cars. Here are the rules regarding cars:
11.1 ELIGIBLE MODELS
11.1.1 Cars must remain factory stock-these cars are intended to be CARS THAT WE RACE NOT RACECARS.
11.1.2 Any 3 or 4 cylinder car with maximum wheelbase of 104 inches with a complete stock engine, body, frame and suspension for that year, make and model. No modifications, alterations, or additions allowed.
11.1.3 No rotary engines. No mid-engine or turbo cars allowed.
11.1.4 Stock carburetor/fuel injection system for that year, make and model required.
11.1.5 Stock transmission and stock unaltered rear end for that year, make and model required.
Ok... here's my problem. I'm, pushing big time off the corners. Other cars are walking away from me because I'm scrubbing off so much speed. Because I lose so much speed I'm a dog in 3rd gear so I'm running in 2nd gear (3/8th mile track)and hitting the rev limiter going into 1 and 3 and over heating the car from over revving. I need to run in 3rd and get the car to turn better. I was told that I need to someway obtain negative camber in both front wheels to allow the car to rotate better. Some drivers of other makes and models are oblonging their shock tower mounts so they can pull the top of the tire/spring assembly in kicking the bottom of the tire out. I don't believe this will work for the civic. Any ideas? I was also told to cut the springs to stiffen the car up and reduce body roll as well as improve handling. I read on here not to cut the springs. Why? I doubt tech would know how many coils a civic spring is suppose to have so I doubt they would catch me on the spring cutting. If not cutting... any other ideas? Spring rubbers?
Thank you in advance.
11.1 ELIGIBLE MODELS
11.1.1 Cars must remain factory stock-these cars are intended to be CARS THAT WE RACE NOT RACECARS.
11.1.2 Any 3 or 4 cylinder car with maximum wheelbase of 104 inches with a complete stock engine, body, frame and suspension for that year, make and model. No modifications, alterations, or additions allowed.
11.1.3 No rotary engines. No mid-engine or turbo cars allowed.
11.1.4 Stock carburetor/fuel injection system for that year, make and model required.
11.1.5 Stock transmission and stock unaltered rear end for that year, make and model required.
Ok... here's my problem. I'm, pushing big time off the corners. Other cars are walking away from me because I'm scrubbing off so much speed. Because I lose so much speed I'm a dog in 3rd gear so I'm running in 2nd gear (3/8th mile track)and hitting the rev limiter going into 1 and 3 and over heating the car from over revving. I need to run in 3rd and get the car to turn better. I was told that I need to someway obtain negative camber in both front wheels to allow the car to rotate better. Some drivers of other makes and models are oblonging their shock tower mounts so they can pull the top of the tire/spring assembly in kicking the bottom of the tire out. I don't believe this will work for the civic. Any ideas? I was also told to cut the springs to stiffen the car up and reduce body roll as well as improve handling. I read on here not to cut the springs. Why? I doubt tech would know how many coils a civic spring is suppose to have so I doubt they would catch me on the spring cutting. If not cutting... any other ideas? Spring rubbers?
Thank you in advance.
Joined: Dec 2008
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Re: Honda civic racing set up
stickier or wider tres in front?
remove front swaybar endlinks?
cut springs might be noticed if you want to go cut springs, but it's a game's chance.
remove front swaybar endlinks?
cut springs might be noticed if you want to go cut springs, but it's a game's chance.
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