Rep Power: 0

I need some help.

I've been throwing parts at this '98 Civic EX coupe for a year now and have come to realize this may be a sensor issue.

What happens is my car gets to a certain temp, then dies. I didn't happen all winter, but now that Dallas is heating up, it happens mostly when I go from freeway driving to stop and go driving. It doesn't start to run rough, or give any warning at all, just goes from 3000 rpm or whatever, to zero. I wait 15 or 20 minutes and it fires right up and I can go another mile or two before it dies again. It doesn't appear to be overheating and I have never gotten any code to come up concerning this.

I've replaced: Distributor and coil, Catalytic converter and O2 sensors (because I once got a code about my cat) Fuel pump, relay and filter, MAP sensor, Radiator fan, fan switch and relay.

So now I have jumped the fan switch so the fan runs all the time and also am running the heater full blast. This seems to make it run okay, in all kinds of traffic, but its not going to be good for the fans and once the Dallas heat really turns up, this will no longer be a working option.

Any ideas on what sensor could be heating up and causing this to happen?

Thanks in advance,

Civicfool...

 
Rep Power: 518

An engine needs 3 things to run: Compression, fuel and spark.
In the correct amounts, at the correct times.
I doubt it loses compression while driving, so:

You should first figure out what is missing (or incorrect) while it won't run.
Fuel, or spark?
Or both?



When you are driving down the road and the tach "drops to zero", is the engine still spinning? (although unpowered).....or does the tach slowly drop to zero as the engine slows to a halt?

When the engine dies, do all the usual warning lights come on?
Or does the dash stay dark as though someone turned the ignition key off?
What is your "clue" that lets you know when it will run again?



Any current fault codes?
Do you have access to a decent scanner that can display sensor values while driving?


Check the grounds on the thermostat housing, clean shiny and tight?

 
Rep Power: 0

It must be spark. Drops straight to zero. It's auto trans, so it still coasts to a stop. No engine codes whatsoever. Dash lights all come on, no indication when it will start again. Sometimes it's 5 minutes, sometimes longer. But the longer I wait, the farther it will go before dying sgain. I have a code reader, but no scan gauge.

 
Rep Power: 518

If you can verify this while the engine won't start, that will at least give a logical direction to go--- instead of randomly firing the parts cannon a few more times.


At the same time, verify the injectors DO click while cranking, this would hopefully show the computer is not (completely) dead during the event. (Or use a noid light or test light to verify they are still getting a pulse).

Once you have this info, then you can hopefully break down each section further.





Some random thoughts:
Does the check engine light still come on while it won't start? (would show the PCM is still powered up)

Did you already replace the PGMFI main relay?
Looks like this



Last thought: The distributor you got....Does it have a lifetime warranty? Try another yet?
Aftermarket reman distributors are crap.