Rep Power: 0

I hope someone can help me. I have a 1998 coupe EX (can) 1.6l. The fuel pump is not working. I have replaced it, checked for voltage at the main relay and pump, both have power. I checked continuity to ground at the pump and it is ok. The oil had not been changed in over a year, and had run very low and what was left was very dirty (it is the kids car and I try to leave basic maintenance to them). The service manual says that if the oil pressure gets to low it will shut off the fuel pump. I changed the oil and still wont start. When I turn the key to run the oil warnig light stays on. Any Ideas??? Thanks

 
Rep Power: 518

Apparently your plan isn't working.
Maybe the car is trying to escape this miserable life.


Really? I've never noticed this strategy employed on a Honda.
What service manual are you using?
It's gotta run and build oil pressure before that light can go out.


How do you know this for certain?

You say you have continuity to ground at the pump, and you have power at the pump. What's missing here? Problem must be inside the tank?

Maybe it's really running and you can't hear it. These pumps are damn quiet, so if you are just listening for loud pump noise you may miss it (it's not like any GM).

Got fuel pressure?

 
Rep Power: 0

Oil pressure light will go out when cranking now, after changing the oil. So I am ruling out the low oil pressure switch. Got that info from the Haynes service manual.
I still have the back seat out and cover off, so I should be able to hear the pump run and no pressure at the fuel rail or before the fuel filter.
I am checking with my supplier to see if maybe i got a bad replacement pump.

 
Rep Power: 518

FYI that info is wrong. There is no way the oil pressure or light can prohibit fuel pump operation.

Good possibility. Or a wiring problem inside the tank... Should be simple to test once you get it back out of the tank.

You know, the Original pumps are quite reliable too. In 11 years with this dealer, I can count on one hand all the truly bad Honda pumps I have had to replace.....and have fingers left over.

GMs pumps are another story LOL.

 
Rep Power: 0

Okay, I think I got it figured out. It was the ground wire. It multimeter read continuity, but through a process of elimination, I found that if I grounded the black wire to the frame the pump would run. So I spliced a wire to the black wire and grounded it to the frame.

It got dark here before I could get it all back together, but I thought I would see if anyone can see an issue with this fix before i put it all back together.

 
Rep Power: 518

Ok so you had a weak ground.

Ohm tests are not good to find a problem like this...
Dynamic testing (operating the circuit, testing voltage drop while under a load) is the best way.

Sometimes I use a headlight bulb to check grounds (that's a 4-5 amp load) or something similar that will put a significant load on the circuit.

Should be ok to keep the pump running.

However, there are other items that share the same ground circuit. You may want to find where the break is so you can make sure other items won't be affected or you can correct whatever issue it has.

The ground is G-552, has about 4 wires on an eyelet, it bolts on under the drivers seat, on the rear side of the front seat leg support beam, under the carpet, about directly rearward of the trunk release levers.

HTH