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I've installed my Morimoto Minis (H1) from TheRetroFitSource but I can't take advantage of the built-in high beam solenoid because I can't figure out the wiring. When I switch from low- to high-beams, the +12V terminal switches. This means that my solenoid activates, to pull down the cutoff screen, but my bulbs turn off.
What have you guys done to wire this?

 
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Are you using a relay harness? Either from TRS or DDM.

The bulbs are going out because you are loosing the 12V signal when you switch to your high beams (since you have one bulb for both low and high).

You can either use a diode between the high beam wire and the low bean wire or a relay. The diode would only allow + voltage to go from the high beam wire to the low bean wire but would restrict the + voltage from the low beam wire goin to the high beam wire. A relay would also accomplish the same thing.

 
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I understand the diode solution but how could I use a relay switch? Can you scratch out a diagram for me? I am not uisng a relay hnrness from ddm or trs, but I am uisng a relay switch

 
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I don't know your wire colors for your specific year but I think you can figure them out.

Here is a PDF attachment.

You are also going to want to add a capacitor in between the low beam wire and the ground. I doubt the relay will switch fast enough for the low beam to not dim a little or possibly go out then come back on.

 
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Aha, I see how this could work. But I like your diode solution better; I think you're right about the relay possibly not responding quick enough to avoid a blip in lighting. That's not a big deal but wiring a diode circuit together would probably be easier. The only thing I am worried about with diodes is how much voltage a diode drops, any idea?

 
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Yes the diode would be an easier option.

Depends on the current being drawn. I would expect a 300mV to 600mV drop. Not enough to allow the light to shut off.

 
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I'm rocking a TRS hi/low relay harness, and there is no "blip" in lighting, unlike when I used the diode method.

 
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^Did you use an ultra fast recovery diode?

My TRS relay works great also.

 
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Honest, dunno. Used some **** I found @ Fry's Electronics. Should also note that my high ad low beams are separate bulbs, so my high beam circuit is more of a load than the morimoto shield

 
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Yea, it might not have been a fast recovery diode or a crappy one. The increased load could also have played a factor.

The shields will be a lot less of a load and the proper diode should switch fast enough.

@localkineguy

What ballasts are you using?

 
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I'm using the 35W DDM Tuning slim ballasts. I have to be honest, I'm somewhat disappointed with the low light output. It is certainly brighter than my stock lights but I wish I went with the 55W system.
I didn't realize that TRS or DDM Tuning had a plug-and-play wiring harness for the bi-xenons. If I'm using DDM Tuning ballasts, should I get DDM Tuning's wiring harness (is this the one [link])?

 
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Are your headlights yellowed? Restoring my headlights made a big difference in the output.

The relays have universal plugs. I would go with the TRS harness. The DDM one uses cheap relays. Someone's DDM kit caught on fire, I think it was riceboys that did.

You could always move the 35 W kit to the fogs and get a 55W for headlights if you want more output.

 
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Mine started to melt from the inside and actually bulged out.. Somehow still (kinda) worked though.

 
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My headlights aren't too badly oxidized but I might try to polish them up. I heard toothpaste works well, any corroborators?
I don't have fog lights so I'm relatively stuck with these 35W suckers. My main issue is that the cut-off is not sharp. This might be solved by cleaning up my lenses.
edit: went ahead and bought the TRS relay. Supposed to arrive tomorrow. I'm excited.

 
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I did the toothpaste thing the first time. I thought it worked good until I used a headlight kit and it was great! The turtle wax kit is like $10-$12 and it works great. I have also use the Sylvania kit and that was good also. If its just a little hazy then te turtle wax kit will be all you need.

Restoring your lenses will help with the cut off line being sharper. I was disappointed in mine until I restored the lenses.

Painting the end of your cutoff shields is also suppose to help. I painted mine black, seemed to help a little.

Your like the TRS relay! It's very well made.