Hello there, so guys before I changed my sensor(Coolant Temp Sensor) The car would take so long to start up in the morning and when it would start as soon as I would push down on the gas pedal the car would die. I changed the sensor and had to take the Cylinder head for some reasons then I put everything back Got new belts everything and its been 2 days that i have the car, when I try to start it in the morning it takes a lot for it to start and I've lost a lot of power 0-60 in like 15 seconds... so anyways my check engine light came on last night and I scan the codes, its P1163 and I searched it up its my O2 sensor. Since I had the problem with that coolant temp sensor(which made no different) Idk whats wrong with the car... Any suggestions?
check fuel psi ?
P1163 means O2 sensor has slow response.
Could be a bad sensor, or it could have everything to do with the poor running condition you have.
Will your code scanner give any engine sensor data?
I would first recheck cam timing, that's the biggest possible cause for low power.
Could be a bad sensor, or it could have everything to do with the poor running condition you have.
Will your code scanner give any engine sensor data?
I would first recheck cam timing, that's the biggest possible cause for low power.
There is also a TSB for 98-00 HX for a new PCM, just for that code.
Honda bulletin 00-028
Description stated NO driveability complaints though, so this does not match what you have right now.
Honda bulletin 00-028
Description stated NO driveability complaints though, so this does not match what you have right now.
I did reset my car's computer... the O2 sensor was a fault code but the Check Engine came on and it was P0118 which is the Coolant temp sensor, Last time it happened it said the coolant temp sensor too and idk whats going on now but anyways, I did have the timing belt changed so they did fix the timing but i might have missed the Timing on the distributor...
Quote:
I did have the timing belt changed so they did fix the timing but i might have missed the Timing on the distributor...
If someone missed the marks on the timing belt job, that would explain lost power. I did have the timing belt changed so they did fix the timing but i might have missed the Timing on the distributor...
The distributor timing should NEVER EVER need to be touched, ignition timing does not change throughout the life of the engine (unless someone messed with it). If the ignition timing is off, then cam timing MUST be verified.
(A timing light check would show something huge like 20+ degrees out of whack if the cam was off by a tooth. Quick and easy to verify good or bad with the right tools.)
But the coolant temp code COULD explain lost power too. Does it puff black smoke?
The code:
PO118: A high voltage (low temperature) problem in the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit.
Does not have to be a bad sensor.
Can be wiring.
Loose terminal fit?
Here's what my info says it takes to set that code:
The output voltage from the ECT sensor is 4.92 V or more for at least 2 seconds.
A bad connection would do it.
Either wire for that sensor: if either loses its connection for 2 seconds, the result would be the same code. A bad connection, lose terminal fit, someone pulling the connector off, etc.
Thoughts, HTH

