mnea

HI Gang,

Well, about 2-3 weeks ago, I suddenly began to get this cough or hick-up in the engine while idling and accelerating so I replaced my distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires with OEM parts. While doing so, I found that the seal for the cap was worn & broken. After I installed the new parts and did a test drive, there was no more cough or hick-up WOOHOO....as I continues to drive for last 2-3 weeks with no problems, I assumed the problem was fixed. HOWEVER...

Today I went to start the car and it sounded normal and healthy but kept on REV REV REV REV...but didn't start. DANG! I went under the hood and saw that 2 of the spark wires were actually disconnected from the plugs or at least lose. SO, I went one by one made sure each spark plug itself was secured tightly (but not too tight) and I reconnected each spark plug wire...There that should do it! NOPE...same thing... nice healthy REV REV REV REV...
but still didn't start. DANG! 2x

If anyone has any ideas, I'd truly appreciate your input.

THANKS!

FWIW, I don't smell gas or anything unusual and I also recently replaced the battery, front brake pads & rotors, brake master cylinder, radiator & hoses, heater hoses and muffler and only did so because the car has been running so strongly with only a minor oil leak.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

make sure the battery terminals are tight. you should be able to twist them hard and not be able to move them. if they turn, they are too loose. may also want to recheck the spark plug connections to the distributor.

mnea

Thanks...but checked and all are tight.
What else could it possibly be??

mnea

AAA guy just came out and tested battery OK...
Checked connections OK

He says "Sounds like the fuel pump" so I asked him how do you know if it's the fuel filter or fuel pump? So he started banging on the fuel tank underneath the car and tells me to try & start it. At first it sounded a little better like it was almost gonna start but it went right back to REV REV REV....& didn't start now just sounds the same.

My guy at dealership says it sounds Relay in fuse box under dash but I'm not really sure what he's talking about.

Any thoughts?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

when the car is off, and you turn it to the ON position but do not start the motor, do you hear any buzzing for a few seconds that then stops? that would be the normal fuel pump running sound to pressurize the system. if there is no noise, its either the fuel pump relay gone bad or the fuel pump. first thing to replace is the relay, since it is much cheaper and easier. if you hear any rapid clicking when turning to ON position, its the relay gone bad for sure.

asianboy781

correct from above post
as u try to attempt to crank it alot of times u will smell gas
as the engine will probly flooded itself
but check the fuel relay and pump

mnea

AAA guy said that's why he thought it was the fuel pump because he didn't hear it but my mechanic says the Distributor is shot....GEEZ!!! I asked if maybe I did something wrong recently replacing the spark plugs, wires, dist cap & rotor but he said "no, it's normal wear & tear, these go all the time especially at 163,000".

I may have made a mistake keeping this car; it's got 163,000 on it BUT it has been running GREAT other than a slight oil leak. However, in the past few years (especially the last 3,000 miles since the battery went in 7/10), I've had to replace the following (I used all OEM parts btw except the tires):

02/29/2008 New Tires (P+L) $323
05/29/2009 New Reg/Motor Assy front pass window (P) $178.99 (Ultimately not needed & problem still persists but non-returnable so I have it as spare)
01/12/2010 New Muffler (P + L) $42.40
070/9/2010 New Battery (P) $54.65
07/16/2010 New Radiator (cracked) & Hoses, Front Brake Pads & Rotors (P) $480.08
08/25/2010 New Heater Hoses (P) $24.49
08/26/2010 New Front Brake Pads & Rotors, New Heater Hoses (L) $200.00
10/15/2010 New Brake Master Cylinder (P+L) $250.02
12/21/2010 New Spark Plugs, Wires, Dist Cap & Rotor (P+L) $118.51
SUB TOTAL $1,672.14
+ Current Needs:
New Distributor (P + L ) $339.00
+ Other known issues:
Exhaust Pipe section that connects to muffler $60
New Paint Job...Small rust spots around car. $?
Electric Wire repair/replacement for front pass power window $?
TOTAL = $2,071.14 +

I guess I'm past the point of no return now and ...knock wood...it lasts a while longer without anything else going wrong.

What would you do, keep the car or sell it?
And how difficult is replacing the distributor?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

distributor requires setting the ignition timing once you bolt it up. since you already put that much into it, i would keep it. still cheaper than buying another car that could have its own list of problems that need fixing.